Sunday 29 April 2018

Rain stops play........After yesterday’s excursions when I hadn’t expected to be writing too much, Katoon’s additions in Li district in particular have caused me a lot of extra work. The information that turned up subsequently simply couldn’t be ignored and for the first time this tour I’m still writing at midday. In the meantime I’ve booked to stay at Tak Andaman Resort for a second night and the reason has not a lot to do with my diligence. Since dawn at least it’s been raining steadily; not the usual 30 minutes tropical shower but a much longer spell of rain which doesn’t upset me in the least. I still have time to see what Tak City has to offer. When the rain subsides at around 12.30pm we can make a move.
City Pillar Shrine of the Four Great Kings........The City Pillar Shrine is in an unusual location beside the river and near the Highway 1 bridge crossing the river rather than in the city itself. The shrine consists of the usual mondrop housing the sacred pillar. However at the back of the compound are the remains of a small chedi and another ruin with four bases on top of each other. Clearly there was something important here before the shrine was built which would explain its location. It’s likely this was an important crossing point of the Ping River.

Chao Por Lak Muang Shrine........The Chao Por Lak Muang Shrine is located a matter of a few hundred yards from Wat Doi Khoi Khao Kaew, across Highway 12 to the west. It’s difficult to find about 200 yards along a concrete lane. This must be the original pillar shrine to King Taksin before the new shrine was built in a more prominent position on the city side of the river.

Wat Doi Khoi Khao Kaew........Staying on the west bank of the river we locate Wat Doi Khoi Khao Kaew which also has ancient ruins. While I’m unable to find out the age of the ruins, the viharn looks similar in style to ruins I’ve seen in Sukhothai. What is clear is that there was a temple here before the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767, a devastating period in Thai history. However out of the ashes came a hero, Taksin the Great, who would expel the invading Burmese army and reunite the Siamese nation. Prior to this Phaya Tak, as he was was then known, was governor of Tak so is this city’s adopted son. The connection with Wat Doi Khoi Khao Kaew and Taksin is a matter of legend so understandably he is commemorated here.
The legend concerns the divination conducted by Taksin when he was Governor of Tak. Back then he cast lots to determined that “If I possess adequate righteousness or virtues to help my subjects achieve the salvation, may the bell mallet which I am going to hurl break only the narrowest part of the glass which is placed at 10 meters away, and may no other parts of the glass crack. Miraculously, the result turned out as he wished.

200 Year Anniversary Bridge........The Anniversary Bridge is a footbridge across the Ping River. Originally just a rope and plank bridge, since then it has been strengthened and is a popular walkway connecting the two banks in an area suitable for recreation and relaxation. The original bridge was built to coincide with the 200th anniversary of the Rattanakosin Era (1982).
Trok Ban Chin (Ban Chin Alley)........Located on the east bank of the Ping River Trok Ban Chin or Jeen (Chinese) consists of several attractive heritage houses preserved in the historic southern end of Tak town, including a former governor’s residence now housing the Tak Museum. It’s an intriguing glimpse into what the town was like more than a century ago, a busy trading centre on the banks of the Ping River.

As we walk down the alley. Katoon stops for a noodle dish served up as it has been since the 19th Century.
Somdej Phrachao Taksin Maharat Shrine........The modern shrine to Taksin the Great is located a few hundred yards from the Ping River on Highway 12 heading east. It’s been in its current location since 1947, originally located on the opposite bank where it received little support. Now with the support of the Fine Arts Department it’s regularly visited.

Wat Bot Manee Si Bunruang........Wat Bot Manee Si Bunruang lies practically opposite the Somdej Phrachao Taksin Maharat Shrine. Originally there were two temples on this site, Wat Manee Rat and Wat Si Bunruang established in 1857 sharing the same wall. On an Ecclesiastical inspection trip to Tak, H.R.H. Prince Vajirayanavarorasa remarked that it would be great if the two temples were combined into a single one called Wat Bot Manee Si Bunruang. On 19th August 1954, his wishes came true and the temple renamed accordingly.

Wat Chaichana Songkhram........Wat Chaichana Songkhram is located near the main bridge (Highway 1) on the city's (eastern) side. There is no English signage or online provenance for this temple giving its history so it must be modern. Currently there is construction underway at this temple.

Wat Klang Suan Dok Mai........This temple is the last site visit of the day but should have been visited at the same time as Wat Doi Khoi Khao Kaew which lies on the mound above. Wat Klang Suan Dok Mai is another site dedicated to King Taksin, the site of some ornate buildings with features unique to the king. From a historical point of view the two temples share the same heritage.

Futile........For dinner we head back into town where Katoon’s appetite is as robust as her merit making. I’m afraid that unless I lock myself in the room, any attempt to shed a few pounds is completely futile. Back at the room, I’ve plenty of time to complete my blog not knowing for certain whether today’s site visits are the last on this tour. Next Page.