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Friday 13 April 2018
Peaceful........The body tried to get me up early this morning as that is what it was used to but I said NO! It’s my day off or at least the morning. To have the chance now to synchronize and test all my media kit is a great relief. At midday I can put it to good use as we venture out and take a bicycle ride along the promenade and stop for lunch. Back at the guesthouse we’re back in time to savor the celebrations.
Significant precipitation expected........In the main street just 100 metres from Ban Glai Kong the procession is underway seemingly with the whole town turning out with buckets and pans to ensure without malice everyone is thoroughly soaked through. In Chiang Khan there’s a wonderful opportunity to witness celebrations in a more traditional way as each temple in the area provides a pickup truck for the procession in the ritual offering of water to the Buddha and to anyone else who gets in the way! That this happens in the hottest month of the year is significant. There are less tourists here now, a chance for the community to renew its spiritual bond.
Re-union........Invariably that involves me, sucked in though my bond with a former Chiang Khan resident, as we make our way back to the ancestral home where preparations are underway for the evening through into the following morning. By 8pm the family re-union is complete, the compliment rising to over 50. Dinner is a grand affair with the introduction of wild boar curry, prawns in butter and river fish in various forms. Then without hesitation the main hall is cleared and set up for the religious part of the celebrations which will happen in the morning. Inevitably we’re back at Ban Glai Klong late and then a wait until the air-conditioning delivers a more comfortable environment conducive to sleep. Even then I am restless as I now know what will happen next!
Peaceful........The body tried to get me up early this morning as that is what it was used to but I said NO! It’s my day off or at least the morning. To have the chance now to synchronize and test all my media kit is a great relief. At midday I can put it to good use as we venture out and take a bicycle ride along the promenade and stop for lunch. Back at the guesthouse we’re back in time to savor the celebrations.
Significant precipitation expected........In the main street just 100 metres from Ban Glai Kong the procession is underway seemingly with the whole town turning out with buckets and pans to ensure without malice everyone is thoroughly soaked through. In Chiang Khan there’s a wonderful opportunity to witness celebrations in a more traditional way as each temple in the area provides a pickup truck for the procession in the ritual offering of water to the Buddha and to anyone else who gets in the way! That this happens in the hottest month of the year is significant. There are less tourists here now, a chance for the community to renew its spiritual bond.
Re-union........Invariably that involves me, sucked in though my bond with a former Chiang Khan resident, as we make our way back to the ancestral home where preparations are underway for the evening through into the following morning. By 8pm the family re-union is complete, the compliment rising to over 50. Dinner is a grand affair with the introduction of wild boar curry, prawns in butter and river fish in various forms. Then without hesitation the main hall is cleared and set up for the religious part of the celebrations which will happen in the morning. Inevitably we’re back at Ban Glai Klong late and then a wait until the air-conditioning delivers a more comfortable environment conducive to sleep. Even then I am restless as I now know what will happen next!
Songkran Festival (first day), Chiang Khan, Loei Province
Saturday 14 April 2018
Dead to the World........As part of the introduction to this tour blog I mentioned that it should be cooler further north than in Bangkok. If 38 degrees Celsius is cooler then I’m a monkey’s uncle as that is what is forecast for today with a night-time low of 26. As the religious element of celebrations kick in about 8am, Katoon wants to head back to help with food preparations at 4am but suggests that someone collects me at around 7am. Well I have my reply; ‘Aw Tae Hell Wi It’. After the stifling conditions I endured yesterday I’m staying put. However that puts me at risk of alienating myself with other family members.
Not knowing when Katoon will return, I roll over and am dead to the world after she departs awaking well after 9am. There’s no reason for me to go out in the fierce heat so I just work on my computer. While Katoon is engaged I have an excuse but it’s not exactly what I’d call a tour right now. Surprisingly she returns around 1pm reporting that the family has dispersed to use the opportunity for sightseeing. Katoon on the other hand is as dead to the world as I was earlier. I’m not really surprised the effort she’s put in. Her enthusiasm never fails to amaze me. At 4pm there’s still no sign of life. Finally at 5pm there’s movement as we head for the fresh market for provisions. That excursion is not so simple as processions though the streets by locals, who seem intent on draining the Mekong River, continue accompanied by the usual throbbing music.
Food and Football........Back at the residence the crescendo has passed and all is quiet; all except the roar of stoves and the rattling of pans. After another meal prepared to local custom with numbers now reduced to under ten we head back to Chiang Khan with other family members. That ushers in another stroll down Walking Street but all honesty told, the novelty of that has worn off by now. Talking of crescendos, the day finally ends as I tune in to Radio Hereford FC for commentary of the away fixture with Bishops Stortford. A last gasp winner leaves the Bulls needing only one win from four games to take the Southern League Premiership title.
Sunday 15 April 2018
Breezy with showers, occasionally heavy........With absolutely nothing planned for today, still I cannot stay locked up forever. Thankfully we need breakfast so I’m on me (sic) bike to the market where I end up with pastries which although sausage shaped tastes like Cornish pasties. I’m told it's a local delicacy. Back at the room I don’t venture out until it’s time for lunch and another bike ride. That sets me up nicely for an afternoon nap until aware that this is my last full day here I start to plan tomorrow’s itinerary. An hour before sunset I venture out again to capture the last day’s festivities. I take my hats off the Thais who really know how to party; they’ve been at it now for 3 days. As if a curtain is about to fall there is a power cut followed by a thunderstorm. It hardly matters. If the Gods are angry then they need to do better than that to dampen the spirits!
Dead to the World........As part of the introduction to this tour blog I mentioned that it should be cooler further north than in Bangkok. If 38 degrees Celsius is cooler then I’m a monkey’s uncle as that is what is forecast for today with a night-time low of 26. As the religious element of celebrations kick in about 8am, Katoon wants to head back to help with food preparations at 4am but suggests that someone collects me at around 7am. Well I have my reply; ‘Aw Tae Hell Wi It’. After the stifling conditions I endured yesterday I’m staying put. However that puts me at risk of alienating myself with other family members.
Not knowing when Katoon will return, I roll over and am dead to the world after she departs awaking well after 9am. There’s no reason for me to go out in the fierce heat so I just work on my computer. While Katoon is engaged I have an excuse but it’s not exactly what I’d call a tour right now. Surprisingly she returns around 1pm reporting that the family has dispersed to use the opportunity for sightseeing. Katoon on the other hand is as dead to the world as I was earlier. I’m not really surprised the effort she’s put in. Her enthusiasm never fails to amaze me. At 4pm there’s still no sign of life. Finally at 5pm there’s movement as we head for the fresh market for provisions. That excursion is not so simple as processions though the streets by locals, who seem intent on draining the Mekong River, continue accompanied by the usual throbbing music.
Food and Football........Back at the residence the crescendo has passed and all is quiet; all except the roar of stoves and the rattling of pans. After another meal prepared to local custom with numbers now reduced to under ten we head back to Chiang Khan with other family members. That ushers in another stroll down Walking Street but all honesty told, the novelty of that has worn off by now. Talking of crescendos, the day finally ends as I tune in to Radio Hereford FC for commentary of the away fixture with Bishops Stortford. A last gasp winner leaves the Bulls needing only one win from four games to take the Southern League Premiership title.
Sunday 15 April 2018
Breezy with showers, occasionally heavy........With absolutely nothing planned for today, still I cannot stay locked up forever. Thankfully we need breakfast so I’m on me (sic) bike to the market where I end up with pastries which although sausage shaped tastes like Cornish pasties. I’m told it's a local delicacy. Back at the room I don’t venture out until it’s time for lunch and another bike ride. That sets me up nicely for an afternoon nap until aware that this is my last full day here I start to plan tomorrow’s itinerary. An hour before sunset I venture out again to capture the last day’s festivities. I take my hats off the Thais who really know how to party; they’ve been at it now for 3 days. As if a curtain is about to fall there is a power cut followed by a thunderstorm. It hardly matters. If the Gods are angry then they need to do better than that to dampen the spirits!
Songkran Festival (last day), Chiang Khan, Loei Province Closure........The 3 days of Songkran have left me with no sites to review; no ancient ruins, no Buddhist temples, no national parks, nothing but the festival of Songkran itself. Yet that’s enough to justify its inclusion in my tour blog. It’s been a pleasure to be part of it. Of course the reason I’m here is entirely down to Katoon and it was built into the front end of this tour from the very start. I’m pleased to say I’ve been welcome during this important period. As if it were a closing ceremony, I find myself at Chiang Khan Hill Resort for dinner with the family. I cannot over emphasize the cultural and language barriers that exist between the UK and Thailand as many will testify. Even though I’m a seasoned traveler in Thailand I can only close that gap a stitch at a time. Just maybe I’ve added an extra stitch during these 3 precious days. Tomorrow it’s business as usual as I head out of Loei province once more.
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