Monday 23 April 2018

Struggling........With another few hours needed before I finish my blog I’m starting to struggle. This really should be a rest day or I shall be a slave to my website. Katoon isn’t helping pilling on her own site list on top of mine. I’m really hoping for an easier day while trying to catch up with events. Understandably it’s late again as we head back to Lampang but right on Q Katoon finds another temple before we’ve hardly started.
Wat Akkho Chai Khiri........Wat Akkho Chai Khiri is located on Highway 1035 opposite the junction for Chae Hom. Approaching the junction from Chae Hom, a long naga staircase rises up to the viharn on top of the hill. Thankfully there is a narrow road to the top where we stop and investigate. The temple compound is roughly square with four gates and is bordered by a low white wall. Within a compound is the viharn, a main chedi and a mondrop with a large standing Buddha image. Another building about 3 metres square is described as ‘watching hall’. Inside in darkness the inverted reflection of the chedi can be observed.
According to the onsite source the temple was built in 1887 and houses a chedi in Lanna and Chiang Saen style although it has gone through a number of restorations. Some evidence of Haripunchaya design is also thought to have existed. The chedi amazingly casts a shadow on the floor of the viharn where the standing Buddha image known as Akkharot is enshrined.
Returning to the main road there is further delay at a monument to an important local saint while Katoon makes more enquiries. Finally we’re on our way but it’s almost time for lunch.

Kiu Lom Reservoir........The highway south passes the large Kiu Lom Reservoir to the east and when we see a sign to it, it seems an ideal spot to take lunch. Just a few kilometres from the highway we’re treated to glorious views of the reservoir we first saw yesterday at the dam. Here are more raft houses available to rent but we’re most delighted to order lunch on a terrace overlooking the lake. It’s a lovely spot we’re not in a hurry to leave.

Wat Pha That Mon Phaya Chae........As we head back to Lampang there are two more temples we could visit before leaving the province. Wat Pha That Mon Phaya Chae is about 8 kilometres east of the Lampang located on a hilltop. Reaching it around mid afternoon I soon realise there is a stiff climb to the top which I hadn’t factored in. After yesterday’s excursion to Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat Phrachomklao Rachanusorn I could be forgiven for giving this one a miss but for some reason, I decide to challenge myself again, this time in fierce heat. While I achieve complete success, it has used up almost an hour’s valuable time and there’s one more issue. During the ascent I switch on my compact camera which I was forced to rely on this tour. Nothing! The screen has gone blank and I’ve left my mobile in the car too. I will not be able to photograph the chedi and viharn on the hilltop now.
Wish list........Now at 4pm it looks like another late end to the day as we make our way around the ring road in Lampang. Our final destination is less than an hour’s drive but there are a couple of sites still on my list. I have to sacrifice one of them today and go with the one that has been on my wish list for quite a long time. At 4.30pm we head into the mountains of Doi Khun Tan where it soon becomes hard going. Although I am not certain, I’m banking on there being a pass through the mountains that will bring me out close to Lamphun, our next destination. The purpose of this deviation is to follow the railway over the pass, which supports the main Bangkok to Chiang Mai service. When I see the railway line, I know I'm heading in the right direction and pause at Mae Tan Noi station. At around 5.30pm having completed our ascent through the national park along single track and difficult undulating roads we reach a track to Doi Khun Tan Railway Station in the middle of nowhere.

Doi Khun Tan Railway Station........The reason I’m here is that the station is an attraction in itself with beautifully laid out gardens and rest areas in cooler conditions. Apart from that, there’s little reason to come here unless you’re on a train or so I thought. The last time I came to Lampang I managed to take a train from there to Chiang Mai, not a huge distance away but with the formidable obstacle of the Khun Tan range its a mighty difficult journey for a train. To overcome it, it needs two locomotives. From Lampang station a second engine is coupled up for the journey to Doi Khun Tan station, 578 metres above sea level. On the occasion of that visit I noted that having reached the summit the second engine was uncoupled with the main engine continuing down the valley to Lamphun and Chiang Mai. All this would be academic on this occasion I thought. There are only six services each way totaling twelve per day. That includes night time services and I would imagine some of those services are by diesel rail not needing support: Having said that, it would be possible to plan the trip to capture this event. However as I left this morning I had no idea if or when I would make it here.
Chance in a million........As we turn off the mountain road along a poorly maintained track leading up to the station you can imagine my utter disbelief to find a Bangkok bound express train waiting in the station, the support locomotive nearby having already decoupled. There’s no time to lose as I switch on my mobile camera. I barely have time to get in position before the signal rises and the engine inches away from the platform towards the mouth of the impressive Khun Tan tunnel. It’s magnificent poetry in motion as I still can’t believe my luck. Mae Tha Bridge........Since Doi Khun Tan station lies at the northwestern edge of the range, it is easier to reach from Lamphun than the way we came from Lampang. We’re soon down the mountain reaching the valley floor which steadily widens out. Following the Mae Tha River we soon reach the Mae Tha railway bridge an attraction in itself. Set in a magical location, the white painted concrete spans gleam brightly, a fitting location to create a rest area beautifully landscaped where you can dine alongside the river. However the sun is setting and we’re still a half hour's drive from Lamphun and the dreaded searching for a room.

Lamphun........Finally reaching the town things won’t be so difficult if we can find a room along the main road on the outskirts of town. When we notice a modern hotel on the right with a clear sign Easy Hotel, I get an immediate lift as we make a U-turn but that hope is soon dashed when we find out it’s full. As we press on into town we hit traffic accentuated by what seems to me a total lack of traffic control. In utter frustration we’re directed to a hotel by a policeman directing traffic who I fear is fighting a lost cause.
Baanlapoon Hotel........Baanlapoon Hotel is located off Highway 106 heading north, a couple of kilometres out of town and at least they have a room. Consisting of two blocks we choose the cheaper ‘servants quarters’ at 600 baht as we are self sufficient as far as breakfast is concerned. It would be so nice if after 3 hard days, I could get settled here for at least two nights but it’s not to be. As we check-in we’re not even afforded the opportunity to view the room, shown images on an iPad instead. Then there is massive formality with checking of my passport, photocopying and filling in forms. Except at the larger hotels there's never been any need to do this and certainly nobody’s ever asked for the car registration before and I'm beginning to wonder whether they need to know the colour of the boxer shorts I’m waring. Feeling rather p***** off after a hard day I book just the one night. In the room at least it’s spacious and there’s space to work on my blog. We’re also able to park right outside the room on the ground floor. With little delay we head out for lunch on the main road. It least that’s cheap and with a 7Eleven nearby that will do nicely as I begin to unwind. Back at the room I’m determined to get most of my blog finished to keep tomorrow's options open.
Post mortem........We’ve always been successful in just turning up and finding a room. It’s the way we operate often not knowing where we will end up at the end of the day but in a situation like today when Lamphun was always our destination I put it to Katoon that we should book ahead. Based on experiences from the past I know that she likes to view the room first but without argument she agrees that we should try that and after a phone call we manage to secure a room for tomorrow. With a lot of work completed on my blog I'm finally feeling in a more relaxed mood. Next Page.