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Sunday 22 April 2018
Refreshed........I hadn’t stopped thinking about the events from yesterday but it appears that the overnight sleep has done the trick and left me refreshed. It seems as if time was needed to get things back in some order as immediately I start on my blog the words just flow naturally again. At just after 6am there’s a good chance to get most of it done as there is no need to go out for breakfast except to arrange coffee in reception. By 9am it’s time to consider options for the day, in particular do we leave today or do we stay. As we study the site list it seems as full as yesterday but Katoon believes we should leave out the more remote sites and prepare to move on later in the day: At least packing up leaves options open. The first site is just minutes away.
Wat Si Rongmuang........Often a combination of Katoon’s curiosity and the need for merit making adds significantly to the time we spend at temple sites; not here. It’s as if the important temples we visited yesterday has satisfied her needs. When she doesn’t see the need to leave the car here she explains that she hasn’t come suitably dressed; shorts simply won’t do. For me this is a great help as recording the onsite information and making observations need not take long.
My observations confirm that the style of Wat Si Rongmuang is Burmese. Inside the ornate 9 tired teakwood viharn is the Buddha image typically Burmese. These images are not as ornate as those normally found, the head capped by nothing more than the shape of an upturned bowl.
The onsite information states that the temple was built in 1904 by a wealthy Burmese who had profited from the logging industry in Lampang. Apparently the temple was larger then than it is today, only the main viharn remaining. It was formerly known as Wat Tha Kha Noi Phama and the Buddha image named Phrahuttaroup Bua Khem.
Refreshed........I hadn’t stopped thinking about the events from yesterday but it appears that the overnight sleep has done the trick and left me refreshed. It seems as if time was needed to get things back in some order as immediately I start on my blog the words just flow naturally again. At just after 6am there’s a good chance to get most of it done as there is no need to go out for breakfast except to arrange coffee in reception. By 9am it’s time to consider options for the day, in particular do we leave today or do we stay. As we study the site list it seems as full as yesterday but Katoon believes we should leave out the more remote sites and prepare to move on later in the day: At least packing up leaves options open. The first site is just minutes away.
Wat Si Rongmuang........Often a combination of Katoon’s curiosity and the need for merit making adds significantly to the time we spend at temple sites; not here. It’s as if the important temples we visited yesterday has satisfied her needs. When she doesn’t see the need to leave the car here she explains that she hasn’t come suitably dressed; shorts simply won’t do. For me this is a great help as recording the onsite information and making observations need not take long.
My observations confirm that the style of Wat Si Rongmuang is Burmese. Inside the ornate 9 tired teakwood viharn is the Buddha image typically Burmese. These images are not as ornate as those normally found, the head capped by nothing more than the shape of an upturned bowl.
The onsite information states that the temple was built in 1904 by a wealthy Burmese who had profited from the logging industry in Lampang. Apparently the temple was larger then than it is today, only the main viharn remaining. It was formerly known as Wat Tha Kha Noi Phama and the Buddha image named Phrahuttaroup Bua Khem.
Wat Si Rongmuang, Lampang
Black Bridge........Still in the west of the town we follow the river as far as the Black Bridge which is an iconic iron railway bridge crossing the Wang River. It’s opportunistic and I just need to park up and take some photos but Oh Dear, before I get a chance to do that one of the new Qishuyan locomotives carrying freight rumbles over the bridge and a rare opportunity goes begging.
Nakorn Lampang Railway Station........As Nahorn Lampang Railway Station has featured before, apart from taking some fresh photographs there is nothing more I can add with the platform currently almost deserted.
Nakorn Lampang Railway Station........As Nahorn Lampang Railway Station has featured before, apart from taking some fresh photographs there is nothing more I can add with the platform currently almost deserted.
Black Bridge and Nakorn Lampang Railway Station, Lampang
Wat Chedi Mongkol........Back in the city Wat Chedi Mongkol has seemed illusive and I manage to stumble on it while searching for another temple. Today it is but a relic of the past, it’s interest only in the function it previously performed.
The onsite information states that 300 years ago during Burmese occupation, the land here was cleared of trees to construct a cantonment for Burmese troops away from the town. With the mention of the gallows one can imagine what went on here. The barracks were also used later by Lanna and Shan troops. There has been no attempt to renovate the teakwood building on site as if the intention was to hairbrush it out of history.
The onsite information states that 300 years ago during Burmese occupation, the land here was cleared of trees to construct a cantonment for Burmese troops away from the town. With the mention of the gallows one can imagine what went on here. The barracks were also used later by Lanna and Shan troops. There has been no attempt to renovate the teakwood building on site as if the intention was to hairbrush it out of history.
Wat Chedi Mongkol, Lampang
Backtracking........Part of my frustration yesterday as I made my first attempt to write up my blog was the fact that while visiting Wat Sri Chum, there was inconstancy between the onsite information and what I had observed. So irritating was this that as the temple is nearby, I need to take another look. This visit caused me to alter what I had written earlier as it became clear that the beautiful seven-tiered Burmese pagoda has been faithfully restored after the fire in 1992.
Wat Pa Fang........Back to the here and now, Wat Pa Fang is also close by, in fact opposite Wat Chedi Monkol. As I could not locate any onsite information I rely on observation and online sources which state that this temple was built during the reign of King Rama IV by Burmese Buddhists. It has a large, glittering gold chedi containing a Holy Relic brought from Myanmar around 1906. The extensive Sala Kan Parian (preaching hall) made entirely of wood consists of Burmese-style overlapping roofs. A small ubosot (ordination hall) has Burmese-style woodwork over its roof with beautiful plaster designs over its doors. Usually there are a considerable number of Burmese monks in residence.
Wat Pa Fang........Back to the here and now, Wat Pa Fang is also close by, in fact opposite Wat Chedi Monkol. As I could not locate any onsite information I rely on observation and online sources which state that this temple was built during the reign of King Rama IV by Burmese Buddhists. It has a large, glittering gold chedi containing a Holy Relic brought from Myanmar around 1906. The extensive Sala Kan Parian (preaching hall) made entirely of wood consists of Burmese-style overlapping roofs. A small ubosot (ordination hall) has Burmese-style woodwork over its roof with beautiful plaster designs over its doors. Usually there are a considerable number of Burmese monks in residence.
Wat Pa Fang, Lampang Mopping Up........Into early afternoon in an operation that seems to be a mopping up exercise, I’ve managed to add all the remaining locations in the city from my list in a relatively short time. It’s now time to head out of the city.
Wat Phra That Sadet........Wat Phra That Sadet is located some 15 km northeast of the city. Here the onsite information states that legend has it that this temple was built 500 years ago in the reign of Phranang Chammathewi. The Phra Ubosot and Viharn have been restored, the original artistic features having been maintained. The temple was declared an ancient monument by the Fine Arts Department.
As proof that my blog is re-read and edited prior to publishing I can state here that the onsite information about the age of this temple is conflicting. Queen Chamathewi, the founder of the Hariphunchai Kingdom reigned in the 7th Century A.D. I would suggest that this temple was indeed built on the site 500 years ago on the site of an earlier building which is consistent with many other sites I’ve visited. The Lanna Kingdom that evolved was eager to preserve Hariphunchai culture, art and religion rather than subdue it.
Wat Phra That Sadet........Wat Phra That Sadet is located some 15 km northeast of the city. Here the onsite information states that legend has it that this temple was built 500 years ago in the reign of Phranang Chammathewi. The Phra Ubosot and Viharn have been restored, the original artistic features having been maintained. The temple was declared an ancient monument by the Fine Arts Department.
As proof that my blog is re-read and edited prior to publishing I can state here that the onsite information about the age of this temple is conflicting. Queen Chamathewi, the founder of the Hariphunchai Kingdom reigned in the 7th Century A.D. I would suggest that this temple was indeed built on the site 500 years ago on the site of an earlier building which is consistent with many other sites I’ve visited. The Lanna Kingdom that evolved was eager to preserve Hariphunchai culture, art and religion rather than subdue it.
Wat Phra That Sadet, Lampang District
Katoon decides that this temple is interesting enough to pull on a pair of long pants and sets off exploring. That event leads to a monk opening a number of halls to shown us around. This reveals that the temple was constructed in Lanna style.
Kiu Lom Dam........At this point, still around 2pm things have gone so well so far that we can add at least another location today as a bonus as we head further north to the Kiu Lom Dam. Located some 20 km north of the city, the Kiu Lom Dam lies in the narrow valley of the Wang River. Arriving at the base of the dam we’re directed to a car park: To view the reservoir requires a short walk further up the road. It provides a magnificent photo opportunity with clear blue/green water supporting a number of raft houses. Now at around 3pm we still haven’t had lunch. Enquiries here reveal that the raft houses below are available for overnight accommodation; an interesting opportunity to take in the fantastic scenery all around. A further option is to take a boat trip around the reservoir, much of it out of view in the number of arms. It’s very tempting but perhaps too late now as we need to take lunch. As we head back to the car park I note that the banks of the river below the dam have been strengthened to a point where it is safe to swim. Still in the hot dry season, local people are quick to take advantage. Thankfully on the bank is a restaurant with good views of the dam.
Katoon orders fish from the reservoir, one which is still swimming around in a tank at the time. With the addition of a crispy pork dish, it’s far better than our normal lunch, which seems to vary between nothing at all and a bowl of soup, and cheap too. Still in mid afternoon, we consider what to do next and Katoon thinks we can make it to the most remote site on our list, a location she totally dismissed earlier.
Kiu Lom Dam........At this point, still around 2pm things have gone so well so far that we can add at least another location today as a bonus as we head further north to the Kiu Lom Dam. Located some 20 km north of the city, the Kiu Lom Dam lies in the narrow valley of the Wang River. Arriving at the base of the dam we’re directed to a car park: To view the reservoir requires a short walk further up the road. It provides a magnificent photo opportunity with clear blue/green water supporting a number of raft houses. Now at around 3pm we still haven’t had lunch. Enquiries here reveal that the raft houses below are available for overnight accommodation; an interesting opportunity to take in the fantastic scenery all around. A further option is to take a boat trip around the reservoir, much of it out of view in the number of arms. It’s very tempting but perhaps too late now as we need to take lunch. As we head back to the car park I note that the banks of the river below the dam have been strengthened to a point where it is safe to swim. Still in the hot dry season, local people are quick to take advantage. Thankfully on the bank is a restaurant with good views of the dam.
Katoon orders fish from the reservoir, one which is still swimming around in a tank at the time. With the addition of a crispy pork dish, it’s far better than our normal lunch, which seems to vary between nothing at all and a bowl of soup, and cheap too. Still in mid afternoon, we consider what to do next and Katoon thinks we can make it to the most remote site on our list, a location she totally dismissed earlier.
Kiu Lom Dam, Lampang District
Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat Phrachomklao Rachanusorn........Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat Phrachomklao Rachanusorn is located in Chae Hom District in the north of Lampang Province, the town itself lies in a wide valley surrounded by mountains. It’s not the easiest place to reach but nonetheless we reach the town around 4pm. The temple itself is another 15 minutes drive deep into the mountains. The temple consists of a collection of chedis and other buildings perched precariously high up on top of jagged mountain peaks. Yet there seems to be a way to get there. Arriving at a parking area, I note a collection of 4 X 4 pickup truck lie waiting for customers. Although quite late in the day, it appears we are just about in time to make the trip with 2 hours of daylight still left. Although a rough ride in a pickup truck doesn’t bother me, a 30 minute stiff climb to the summit does but by now it’s just like a rolling stone down the mountainside; it’s hard to stop.
We’re instructed to wait at the car park since the rough concrete road is single track and a signaling system is in place. Then as we get going the sensation of altitude and spectacular views kicks in. Still there is that climb to worry about for me. As we start the climb those descending wish us luck Hmmmm! All I can do is see how I feel and soon I’m in a sweat. It’s just a case of taking it in stages. After a short stretch of concrete track, the way converts to metal plate consisting mostly of a staircase that seems to go on forever high among the jagged peaks. At about half-way, I wonder whether I can make it but with second wind I see we’re near the top. The final approach is level where the chedis come into view. Needless to say the views below are stunning as we explore the area. Katoon makes the final assent to the peak for photographs but I am just releaved to make it this far. With time running out we are granted 20 minutes at the site, thereafter the park official will follow us down and arrange transport as the last visitors of the day. It's time to reflect on just how these 'floating chedis' came to be here.
About 15 years ago, a revered Lampang monk led the charge and a team of 46 workers, spending two years carrying bricks, mortar, cement and every piece of the temple up the mountain each and every day until its completion. Although the temple has been there for over a decade, it is only in recent times that it has become more widely known.
We’re instructed to wait at the car park since the rough concrete road is single track and a signaling system is in place. Then as we get going the sensation of altitude and spectacular views kicks in. Still there is that climb to worry about for me. As we start the climb those descending wish us luck Hmmmm! All I can do is see how I feel and soon I’m in a sweat. It’s just a case of taking it in stages. After a short stretch of concrete track, the way converts to metal plate consisting mostly of a staircase that seems to go on forever high among the jagged peaks. At about half-way, I wonder whether I can make it but with second wind I see we’re near the top. The final approach is level where the chedis come into view. Needless to say the views below are stunning as we explore the area. Katoon makes the final assent to the peak for photographs but I am just releaved to make it this far. With time running out we are granted 20 minutes at the site, thereafter the park official will follow us down and arrange transport as the last visitors of the day. It's time to reflect on just how these 'floating chedis' came to be here.
About 15 years ago, a revered Lampang monk led the charge and a team of 46 workers, spending two years carrying bricks, mortar, cement and every piece of the temple up the mountain each and every day until its completion. Although the temple has been there for over a decade, it is only in recent times that it has become more widely known.
Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat Phrachomklao Rachanusorn, Chae Hom District, Lampang Province
Leelawadee Resort........with the time approaching 6pm it’s obvious we now have to stay in the area and Katoon has already enquired about available accommodation. Leelawadee Resort, just outside the town of Chae Hom on the main road to Lampang seems to be ideal. When we arrive it’s as described, a new venture but the sign in front says it’s full tonight. My heart sinks as there’s not much in the way of a plan B right now. However the manager sees that although one bungalow is occupied, the resident is not staying tonight. With a bit of re-arranging we’re able to use it. Now with little daylight left we head into the town for something to take back to the room for dinner and breakfast in the morning.
Leelawadee Resort, Chae Hom District, Lampang Province At this point I’m knackered and all I want is a beer. Slowly recovering all I attempt is a listing of today’s site visits. As relieved as I am the room is small and hardly provides a suitable location for my laptop. I guess it does what it says on the tin. The top is the lap! It’s another case of having to write the lion’s share of my blog in the morning but that will reflect what a most exciting day it’s been. As a grand finale they show on TV the FA Cup semi-final Chelsea v Southampton. I’m quite satisfied with the result! Next Page.