Monday 16 April 2018

Tour resumes........The heavy meal last night has not been conducive of a good night’s sleep but I’m awake by 7am and that will enable an earlier departure while the weather for the moment is overcast which is a welcome reprieve. What we can achieve today I’m not sure except that while this is a day in transit I hope to tick off some items on the list I prepared yesterday. I’m restricted by the fact that there is nothing much more I can add on this third spell in Chiang Khan. Well there is something!
Wat Phu Kwai Ngun........A trip to Wat Phu Kwai Ngun (Temple on Silver Buffalo Mountain) could have been achieved by now but a combination of the heat and festival traffic has proved off putting. Although visited on my first trip here in 2011, a lot has changed since then, practically my first contribution to this website when I was less focused. At that time too, the building designed to house the Buddha footprint was still under construction. Not too much existed then and the mountain viewpoint seemed to hold my attention the most as it has appeared on my website’s homepage for most of its existence. I figured that another trip to this temple would be useful after such a long time.
With light traffic today it’s easily reached about 10 km to the east of the town past the turning to Kaeng Khut Khu. The temple grounds on the slope of Phu Kwai Ngun (mountain) is obviously familiar to me but the completion of the shrine stands as a magnificent example of Thai religious architecture. Then, I had almost forgotten, there are the rabbits, yes rabbits, hundreds of them. The basic compound from the past has now been expanded so you can walk amongst them handing out lettuce and pellets that you can buy for a modest fee. Something I doubt I mentioned on my original visit is the fact that the monk who founded the temple was born in the Chinese Year of the…………yes you guessed it right.

On the high road........Heading back to Chiang Khan, there is a final visit to the residence to collect something to take back home then we head south towards Loei City. To understand my dilemma sometimes when driving I have two women advisors who seem hell bent on disagreement. Katoon’s view is always welcome especially in this province but when the calm voice on my Satnav tells me something else what do I do? From Loei we need to head back the way we came but there is a shorter route through the mountains cutting off the angle. Katoon doesn’t fancy it but there is extensive resurfacing work on the main highway. That seals it as we head into the wilderness something I wouldn’t fancy doing at night. This option seems to work as we leave the 2399 and join Highway 21 heading west through Phu Rhea. Considering a stop here Katoon prefers to take lunch in Dan Sai further on, a simple affair in the town.
Loei exit........From Dan Sai a little before 2pm taking the 2013 we finally exit Loei province and enter Nakhon Thai district, Phitsanulok province, passing though Nakhon Thai and on to join the national highway 12 heading west towards the provincial capital. Aware that I’ve no more excuses, I try to locate something I can report on now I’m well clear of Loei. The first opportunity arises further along highway 12. This route follows the course of the Khek River as is flows west. At a convenient point where there are rapids, is Kaeng Song Waterfall, a popular location for humanity to escape from the searing heat. With almost every inch of shallow water, rock and sand occupied by visitors, it’s not for me but I’m happy to record it in my blog here.

Noen Maprang........Now in mid afternoon, thoughts turn to our overnight stop. If we press on we will be in Phitsanulok by 4pm but Katoon has identified a particular natural attraction: As she is now driving it’s up to me to guide her too it. We have a choice of two routes both similar in time. We choose the shorter route directly across a mountain range. After a most enjoyable scenic experience we find ourselves in Noen Maprang district in the southern part of Phitsanulok province. As we approach the town of Noen Maprang I’m aware of impressive views towards the mountains to the east. Without hesitation we resolve to set up camp here. Here we find a classic example of just how deficient the online search for accommodation is as we start to enquire at resorts. Rejecting the first due to the lack of a fridge we find another that has but one cabin with one. Apart from the toilet door not closing properly it seems acceptable for the price.
Ban Raiphutawan........ Ban Raiphutawan consists of a few bungalows built on farmland and is obviously quite new as it doesn’t appear on any webpage search. The quirky design is typical of a trend in Thailand to create novelty structures, this example looking like a row of dolls houses having received the attention of Cath Kidston with a paint brush. Not that that bothers me but what does is the lack of a wash hand basin in a small bathroom, insufficient power sockets, a bathroom door that doesn’t close, lack of an adequate wifi signal, poor water flow and no means of making a coffee in the morning unless you have your own kettle. The only thing in its favour is its location near the magnificent rock stack formations which we’ve come to see.

Magnificent........As mentioned Ban Raiphutawan has been built on unultilised farmland which appears to extend right up to the foot of the mountains to the east. These magnificent limestone rock stacks are typical of many found widely in Southeast Asia and China. When we’re told there is another resort developed by the owners in this stunning location we have to take a look, especially as we can take dinner there. When we arrive at around 6pm the sun is setting creating magnificent colours of the rock faces. Within the fields below they have created a farm attraction amongst the mango trees and cornflower fields. With a restaurant set up for dining I can’t think of a more peaceful setting. They’ve managed to create a balance between nature and man’s creative thinking combined to ensure the visitor is totally at ease. Being the only diners they set up a table for us out in the open, now in shade and a more exotic location is hard to perceive. As the hallmark of this website is the exploration of the unusual, this location fits it like a glove.

As mentioned this is a resort but we were told the accommodation has no air-conditioning. In fact they do have two air-conditioned bungalows but tonight they are occupied. Back at our bungalow the deficiencies are amplified as I write my blog for the day. We need to improvise. Next Page.