Day 12, Thursday 29 November

Yupin Resort……..Staying at Yupin Resort in Phanom Dong Rak District has broken a sequence of hotels and apartments in the provincial cities that offer modern comfortable accommodation with all conveniences not far away. Generally, you don’t find that in the rural towns but the resort types mostly bungalows, chalets and cabins are common and regularly used by us when moving around different districts. Failing to do that in Buriram province causing some inconvenience, I haven’t made the same mistake here. The trick is though, to be more prepared and pick up some convenience foods on the way: All these resorts have fridges. While it wasn’t really necessary, we skipped dinner last night as there were no restaurants on our doorstep. Other than that, I’m happy with the accommodation and the staff are friendly enough. Having said that, as the night passes there is cause to alter yet again, our initial starting point for the day having already lost valuable time.

Phanom Dong Rak Hospital……..Phanom Dong Rak Hospital is certainly a place I didn’t want to be with the pressure I’ve put myself under. Not mentioned before as it hadn’t affected the tour, only my discomfort, is the fact that I’ve been suffering from sore feet, a condition popularly known as ‘joggers foot’, which I’ve had for months. Despite this I’ve been happy to carry on but overnight there is a new development. A sore toe on my other foot, I’ve put down to my sandals rubbing, is more serious than that and could cause more delay. The consolation is that I know what it is: It’s a repeat I have of gout a year ago which causes much pain and swelling around the big toe area. With the district hospital just 10 minutes away, I need to get it treated.
At the hospital, I go through the normal process of registration, recording of blood pressure and weight and general screening prior to seeing the doctor. Judging by the number of people waiting I don’t believe I need to wait long. It should be just a matter of getting a prescription. However, having consulted with the doctor and had the condition confirmed, I’m surprised that the treatment will be more involved than that: After a blood test, I will need the first dose of medication administered by intervenes injection, which will take 30 minutes and an hour overall. I didn’t think I’d be back on a steel trolley so soon. While this is going on Katoon obtains more medication and settles the bill; £10 really isn’t going to break the bank. To be fair the treatment is excellent throughout and the attention and administration from the pretty nurse, right out of the top drawer. The procedure over I’m wheeled to the hospital entrance still on my trolley. You would think there is an ambulance there, but NO! It’s just Katoon and her service is excellent too.
A Bridge to Far……..Now coming up to lunchtime, I have a decision to make. With the medication the way it’s been administered expected to ease the pain soon, I can carry on with another issue resolved, but there’s one issue I can’t fix. I’ve lost too much time. I need to modify the plan and that sadly means cancelling a visit to arguably the most interesting, for me, site of this tour, a site in the next province of Si Sa Ket. I can actually reach it without difficulty but I’ve not enough time to deal with a new province effectively so it will now be added on a future tour.
Just to recap the reason I’ve cancelled is not because I’m left with no time overall but that we have an appointment in another province on Saturday which is Katoon’s birthday. Her very good friend, Mayye, who has been staying with us in Bangkok is now in Kalasin and we’ve been invited up there to celebrate. It would just be too rude of me to delay after all the help I’ve been getting on this tour. OK now it’s time to resume the tour for today and tick off the remaining sites in Surin province. It starts with the Ta Muean group of Khmer temples.
Prasat Ta Mueang or Prasat Bai Greem……..While I’ve cancelled a visit to the important Khao Phra Viharn National park and the Pha Mor E Deang cliff on the border in Si Sa Ket province, at least I’m about to get a good flavour of it at the Ta Mueng group of Khmer sanctuaries.
Prasat Ta Mueang, facing east and built of laterite, is believed to be a Dharma Pavilion, a shelter or house and cremation site for an important religious person. It was built during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (1181-1218).

Prasat Ta Muean Tot……..Prasat Ta Muean Tot lies 200 metres south of Prasat Ta Mueang and was another arokayasala (medical station), although larger than some of the others built in King Jayavarman’s VII's reign. This suggests that this hospital formed part of a much more substantial Khmer settlement. It was built using laterite blocks and sandstone on two bases.

Prasat Ta Muean Thom……..Prasat Ta Muean Thom is located 700 metres further south on a line of the Banthat mountains facing south. Built in laterite and sandstone, it is a Hindu monastery of the Sawai sect respecting Phra Shiva, the highest god. It was built in Baphuan Art style in the 11th century.
Currently there is access to Prasat Ta Muean Thom during restricted hours. This temple lies in disputed territory along the Thai/Cambodia border, a situation that awaits a decision by the United Nations Border Commission. In the meantime after recent tension on the border, there is an agreed joint occupation by representatives of the Thai and Cambodian Armies. During the Khmer Rouge regime, this borderland was raided for its precious carvings and art treasures. The border post here serves as both maintenance of the peace and protector of the ruin. Solders of both armies are available to show visitors around with clear knowledge of this important site. It's now back to the site we attempted to visit yesterday.

Ta Khwai Temple/Prasat Ta Krabei……..Prasat Ta Krabei consists of a single prang built in laterite on a square base. Built on top of a hill there is no space for other buildings. It is presumed that the prasat was built at the same time as the Ta Muean Complex. Oddly, although Google Map shows the site location, it does not identify road access from the Thai side of the border but there is a perfectly adequate tarmacked road leading to it from Highway 224 in Phanom Dongrak district where it is signposted 10 km along that road. On this road are the usual army checkpoints and a border post at the end. As at Ta Mueang there is both Thai and Cambodian army presence.

Chong Chom Border Market……..Now travelling east, located on the main road in Kap Choeng district, is Chong Chom Border Market. Chong Chom/O Smach is also a border crossing point. Chong Chom Border Market is a permanent market, the largest in southern Isan and similar to the one in Aranyaprathet in Sa Kaew Province. While offering a wide range of goods both Thai and Cambodian, this market while offering some bargains has the reputation for selling inferior goods: At least Katoon thinks so.

Prasat Phum Pon……..Moving further east we locate Prasat Phum Pon in Sangkha Distict. This prasat consists of four sanctuaries. Three are made of brick while the fourth is made of laterite blocks. This is the oldest Khmer prasat in Thailand dating from the 8th century.

Prasat Yai Ngao……..Moving into late afternoon there is one more prasat within 20 minutes’ drive. Prasat Yai Ngao, located in Sangkha district, is a former Khmer monastery comprising two prangs, one with its roof missing. These, facing east, are made of brick on a laterite foundation. There are brick carving designs such as the dragon design at the door frame depicting elephant, fish and lion holding a five-headed Naga in the mouth.

In an interesting development, a local monk arrives to look around. He just cannot resist the temptation to come and chat with me, even offering that I join him at his temple. That would not be the first time that offer has been made to me.
Closure……..With this visit and with daylight soon disappearing, I now declare proceedings in Surin Province closed. However, we are still in the deep south of the province and need to head north for those celebrations at the weekend. Just a couple of choices are available to find accommodation: Either return to Surin or to Sikhorapum where we stopped yesterday. Katoon chooses the latter and of course with hindsight we could have visited the temples in the area now and saved time yesterday but I wasn’t to know how things would turn out. Knowing it would be dark on arrival there are no concerns about finding resort style accommodation and shortly after arrival in Sikhoraphum we locate Leelavadee Resort. Although I could have used a smaller room, for the average cost of accommodation on this tour, we’re offered a large room with lobby and kitchen. Hardly needing these facilities we’re still grateful for the space. Dropping off the luggage we head into town where we locate the night market. It’s a rare opportunity for me to do some Christmas shopping. Rejecting simple street food, we locate a pavement kitchen at the train station and eat a substantial meal at a big discount to roadside restaurants. Back at the room I’m far more relaxed now the pressure of touring is off for the moment. I don’t even bother to start by blog, just upload my photos. Then there’s another bonus: The pain in my toe seems to have gone. The pretty nurse has waved her magic wand! Next Page.