Day 16, Monday 3 December

Normal Service Resumes……..With the brakes applied in proceedings over the weekend during which socialising has taken precedent, not an awful lot was done; barely enough in the end to add Kalasin to my list of provinces I’ve reviewed. Rather than taking the opportunity to recharge the battery, I feel the pause has interfered with the momentum of this tour, not helped with a string of restless nights. In fact, overnight was one of the low-points the same as I’ve encountered on previous tours as I struggle with what to do next with the best part of a week still available. With a premature return to Bangkok not out of the question, I’m still looking for inspiration. After all I’m quite comfortable at Farisa Garden Hotel right now. Finally, after concentrating hard on my maps something clicks as the final pieces of the puzzle are put in place. To start with I need to complete the tour of Kalasin by adding the rest of those awkward sites which will then determine an exit strategy.
Lampao Wildlife and Nature Education Centre……..The first port of call means a return to Sahatsakhan district for some unfinished business. There was just not enough time on Saturday to fully explore this district with its huge Lam Pao Reservoir. The Lampao Wildlife and Nature Education Centre is located just before the dam in a particularly scenic location beside the reservoir. I was unaware of its existence until now. The function of the centre is in its name and is one of the regional centres set up to not only offer a learning experience but provide an area for recreation. This is an ideal place for a school activity and a party of children had arrived at the time of my visit. They seem to enjoy the centre’s attractions which includes a small zoo mainly inhabited by primates.

Lampao Dam……..The Lampao Dam is the main reason for returning to Sahatsakhan today. As we pull into a clearing occupied by food sellers, I note that there is an outflow from the dam along the bank of which they’ve set up sunshades for visitors, just another recreational feature, but I’m more intent on reading about the dam itself on the signboard.
The first thing I realise, is that the Lampao Dam to the southwest of the reservoir is actually located in the City district. The dam is an earthen dam, 33 metres high and 7.800 metres long with a width of 8 metres. Construction began in 1968 to contain the flow of both the Pao and Huay Yang Rivers at Ban Nong Song Hong creating a reservoir on the northern side of each river. A canal was then built to connect the two reservoirs creating a total capacity of 1,430 cubic metres. The dam helps in flood prevention and with irrigation for farmland. It also provides a source for fish breeding. The reservoir is a tourist attraction and Dok Ked Beach has become especially popular with northeastern locals.

Phu Faek Forest Park……..After recording what I can in the dam area, it’s time to move on which will mean an hour’s drive to the east, passing Kalasin city to the north. Phu Faek Forest Park is located in Na Khu District in the northeast of Kalasin Province and there’s a good reason to come here but first it’s time for lunch in the village.
A few kilometres from Highway 2101 is the entrance to the park. A single lane tarmac road leads into the park and past a dinosaur fossil site but the main attraction is a few kilometres further along the road terminating at a visitor centre. Warned in the village that this is a place locals never go, true to the word, it’s completely deserted. However, there’s enough signage to direct me to what I’m looking for. Firstly after 150 metres there is an example of petrified wood, the first I’ve seen outside a museum and left exactly as it was found. Then 200 metres further along the track is the fossil bed and the remarkable dinosaur footprints. Discovered just 22 years ago by two young girls, the site has attracted the attention of researchers but not yet by the public it seems. Yet I’ve no issues at all in making this big detour which puts me at the maximum distance from Bangkok on this tour.

Kalasin Exit……..As mentioned earlier, I had to devise an exit strategy having resolved to extract what else I could from Kalasin Province and that meant committing to a new phase on this tour. I will now be adding a fifth province to it and that means at least another three days in Isaan. Resetting the GPS, we head south along mostly rural roads and by mid afternoon find ourselves in Roi-Et Province once more, determined this time to give it our undivided attention.
Phra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkhol……..Arriving at Phra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkhol later than I expected, now well after 4pm, I soon realise that it won’t be a question of just firing off a few shots with my camera. Seen on the hillside from a good distance, the Phra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol or “The Great, Victorious and Auspicious Pagoda” is one of the largest chedis (pagodas) in Thailand. It is located in the grounds of Wat Pha Namthip Thep Prasit Vararam. This huge chedi is 101 meters long, 101 meters wide and 101 meters high and was built on a plot measuring 101 Rai, which is about 40 acres. The number 101 comes from the name of the province it is located in, namely Roi Et, which means 101 in Thai.

The chedi, which is also known as Phra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkhon is highly revered in Roi Et province, since relics of the Buddha are contained in the top of the pagoda. The fairly new chedi was designed by the Department of Fine Arts, and was built to serve as a center of learning for Buddhist monks. The elegantly shaped chedi is painted in white and very elaborately decorated in golden colored artwork in modern style. Surrounding the chedi are eight smaller pagodas. The finial on top of the chedi is made of 60 kilos of pure gold. The chedi and temple are located on top of Nam Yoi cliff with wonderful views of the surrounding rural area.
Clearly it needs some time to take it all in. For a start, there is a massive boundary wall built of brick. This does nothing to suggest what’s inside, resembling the ramparts of a castle. Then there is the inner ring of beautifully decorated passageways with gates leading towards the gardens past the satellite chedis to the main pagoda itself. This is a masterpiece of design and craftsmanship built on five levels with the finial on top. With one eye on the clock, I consider the first level sufficient but one could easily spend a couple of hours here.

Dong Ma – I Thai Literary Botanical Gardens……..With not too much daylight left, it would be prudent to head back down the hill but Katoon has other ideas. At the rear of the pagoda the road continues into the forest, a protected area with some significant natural features, including viewpoints, botanical gardens and forest trails. The entry fee for the Dong Ma Park is 200 baht for foreigners but that is waved after 4pm. Despite fading light, we decide to investigate. Driving further into the forest we locate the visitor centre and botanical gardens. From there, there are a number of options, the most obvious is the Pha Mok Miwai viewpoint. According to Google map, this is actually in the adjacent province of Mukdahan but I’m claiming it as a visit in Roi-Et province. The cliff at Pha Mok Miwai would be suitable for viewing a sunrise as it faces east. With just about enough light left to take photographs, that’s all we can achieve now: We must head back down the mountain.

Nong Pok……..The nearest town of any size is Nong Pok but with night closing in as we return down the mountain, it will be dark before we reach it. Katoon is unconcerned about finding accommodation, making enquiries in the town. Just on the outskirts is Meethip Hotel which looks reasonably modern from the outside. With few options, we check in, now past 6pm, then without unpacking we head off to a restaurant 200 metres away. The fare here is typically Isan, something I’ve had to get used to and for a change tonight I order a beer with it. Anxious to head back to start my blog, I just have to wait as Katoon engages with the locals. I do my best to communicate and it soon becomes clear how friendly the folk are in this part of Thailand. Generally poor they are the salt of the earth, honest, hard-working people, a far cry from the greed and insincerity of Pattaya or Phuket. Back at the room my resilience fails me and I do little work on my blog. That needs to be worked on tomorrow as well as devising a plan for a full day touring in Roi-Et province. Next Page.