Day 5, Thursday 22 November

Catching up……..As hard as I try I just don’t seem to be able to get a lie-in, particularly after such a busy day yesterday meaning I have a lot of catching up to. Finally, after probably four hours I’m up to date. With a kettle in the room and ample provisions there’s no need to venture out so I continue by planning today’s tour. As U Place ticks all my boxes, I’m happy to book another night. Strangely though, I’m still having connection problems with my laptop. As the mobile phones have no problem connecting to the WiFi signal I cannot reasonable mark the hotel down for that. I just hope I have enough mobile data available to tether the laptop to the phone. Finally, at 11am all is ready.
Thao Suranari Monument……..Although I’ve made a list, it covers the province as a whole. I didn’t manage to do any orientation so will have to concentrate on what is in and around the town for now. We start with the most obvious site but parking will be an issue. The best bet is to park in the temple, Wat Sakae and walk. The 20-baht parking fee is well worth it. It’s less than 10 minutes’ walk to the Thao Suranari Monument. This monument is a memorial to the Thai heroine called ‘Ya Mo’, by locals. Built in 1934 it attracts people from other provinces as well as locals who come to ask for blessings. The statue is made of black copper. It is 1.85 metres high and is dressed in regalia in a standing posture. The right hand holds a sword and the statue faces west towards Bangkok.

Thao Suranari was originally named Khunying Mo, the wife of the assistant governor of Nakhon Ratchasima. In 1826, Chao Anuwong of Vientiane had Korat under siege but Khunying Mo rallied the villages to fight against Chao Anuwong. After the battle was over, King Rama III promoted her to Thao Suranari. Every year from 23 March to 3 April, the people hold a ceremony to honour her bravery.
Wat Sala Loi……..For the next site visit we do need the car. Wat Sala Loi lies just outside the old city wall to the northeast. The brick ubosot, still in use, was built by Thao Suranari and her husband in 1827. This is an especially important temple for local people on account of its history.

Khorat Museum……..Still in the northeast of the city next to Nakhon Ratchasima University is the Khorat museum. As its name suggests it deals only with the history of Khorat. Not well advertised this museum doesn’t have a reception desk so we were obliged to ask the office staff. However an official soon appeares and we were given a guided tour around the museum. Although small it systematically deals with each of the times period from the Iron Age, Dvaravati, Khmer, Ayutthaya and Ratanakosin periods. Plenty of information is available for each of these periods based on finds and archaeological digs. The one drawback is the lack of information in English but the official is very obliging in answering questions. I would recommend a visit to this museum before any detailed exploration of the province. You can’t really lose; it’s free.

Maha Viravong National Museum……..The Maha Viravong National Museum is located inside the compound of Wat Suthaijinda. The one-story museum building was constructed in the form of a contemporary Thai-style house. The museum officially opened on 24 June 1954. The Fine Arts Department announced the establishment of the Maha Viravong National Museum in the Royal Gazette in 1961. Most of the objects in the museum are from the collection of Somdej Phra Maha Viravong (UanTisso), the former abbot of Wat Suthajinda and were presented to the Fine Arts Department in 1927 for the purpose of disseminating information about Thailand’s cultural heritage.

The Maha Viravong National Museum features antiques and art objects that are valuable in terms of history, archaeology, tradition and culture from prehistoric times to the Bangkok period. In addition to the items presented by Somdej Phra Maha Viravong, the exhibits include archaeological objects from excavations in Nakhon Ratchasima and surrounding provinces, as well as private donations. Objects include prehistoric pottery, bronze implements, bronze drums, stone inscriptions, Buddha images of various styles, Lopburi glazed ceramics and Chinese ceramics. Local Isaan arts are also displayed, featuring wooden Buddha images and important historical objects, such as the throne used for the receptions of King Chulalongkorn, King Vajiravudh and King Rama IX, in Nakhon Ratchasima.
Despite this long list, all the objects are housed in just one hall. As I entered I thought this was just an appetiser as the hall didn’t seem overly burdened with objects on display. This is because only basic information is provided unlike the display at the Khorat Museum. As interesting as some of these objects are, I learnt a lot more at the Korat Museum and if there was only time enough to visit one, I’d give this one a miss and avoid paying the 50 baht fee.
Stationary……..Eager to add to my visit list for today, I scour through it to find that I’m unable to identify any more sites in the city. Besides, it’s not far off 4pm and the closure of many sites. I make tracks back to U Place then suddenly remember I’m near the railway station. Quickly adjusting the GPS link, I head for it. Unfortunately, I’m too late for 1 service which has just departed but it’s worth checking what else is due. Well, the answer to that is very little; just a DMU heading east. But I’m in luck. A ZCSR Ziyang locomotive appears and couples up to container and fertilizer tank wagons. After the DMU departs, the CSR Ziyang hauls its load out of the sidings heading in the same direction.

The Mall……..Returning to U Place in late afternoon, it's straightforward in complete contrast to yesterday. My site list today is not full by any means and I’m quite relaxed about writing my blog. Before I do, we go for dinner. One option is a Japanese restaurant within easy walking distance but we pass that by and head for The Mall where we are spoilt for choice. Without too much indecision, we find ourselves at Chester Grill and that’s certainly different.
Backtracking……..Back in the room, I write up my blog so I won’t need to bother too much in the morning. I figure on an early start as I’ve hit a bit of a snag. Up until now, a site list, saved on the laptop, which I prepared even before I arrived in Thailand has turned up. When I changed the OS in Bangkok all recent history was lost and I couldn’t remember the name of the file. In the end, it was pretty obvious. What that list reveals is a gaping hole, a string of important sites that I’ve missed on the way here. I could visit them on the way back but as they’re less than an hour’s drive back down the Mittraphap Road, I’d rather get them out of the way now. At least I have a firm plan for tomorrow. Next Page.