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Day 11, Wednesday 28 November
One Fu Hotel……..Today we must definitely leave Surin but probably not the province. For the price, I can’t fault One Fu Hotel but I hardly expect anything special for breakfast. However, although Thai style food, they provide something warm from the kitchen. Waking early to work on my blog isn’t a cause for delay and my site list for today is complete, yet the early start I desperately crave just doesn’t seem to materialise.
One Fu Hotel……..Today we must definitely leave Surin but probably not the province. For the price, I can’t fault One Fu Hotel but I hardly expect anything special for breakfast. However, although Thai style food, they provide something warm from the kitchen. Waking early to work on my blog isn’t a cause for delay and my site list for today is complete, yet the early start I desperately crave just doesn’t seem to materialise.
One Fu Hotel, Surin
Unbalanced……..While returning back to Surin yesterday, Katoon wasn’t happy with the handling of the car. There’s no sign of anything outwardly wrong and I guess she has hit one of those potholes and thrown a wheel out of balance. As she is doing most of the driving at the moment I can’t be of much help. The result is that she calls the rental company and the owner of the car suggests she get it checked at a B Quick service centre. Although there is one on the ring road it means virtually writing off the morning while they check the car over. By 11.30am things seem to have been sorted and we head off to the first site visit of the day.
Surin National Museum……..Located on the south side of the city along our direction of travel, the Surin National Museum, now reopened after two days break, is soon reached. I’ve been cautiously advised that it’s hardly worth the visit and when I find out it’s free, unusual for a national museum, I’m obviously not expecting too much but whatever is here, is now a bonus so let’s take a look.
Surin National Museum……..Located on the south side of the city along our direction of travel, the Surin National Museum, now reopened after two days break, is soon reached. I’ve been cautiously advised that it’s hardly worth the visit and when I find out it’s free, unusual for a national museum, I’m obviously not expecting too much but whatever is here, is now a bonus so let’s take a look.
Surin National Museum, Surin
The Surin National Museum was established by the Department of Fine Art in 1995 to collect, preserve and exhibit the cultural heritage of Surin Province in five areas on two floors :
1) Natural Sciences
This section illustrates the physical characteristics of Surin-topography, climate, geology, natural resources and rice-farming in Surin, one of the top producers of high quality jasmine rice in Thailand.
2) History-Archaeology
This exhibition shows cultural development from the pre-historic period of about 2000-1500 years ago through the Dvaravati period (7th-8th century), Khmer culture period (7th-13th centuries), and the Lan Chang-Ayutthaya period (14th-18th centuries).
3) Surin History
This display illustrates the history of Surin beginning in 1759 when the Kuay leaders, composed of Chiang Phum, Chiang Kha, Chiangsi, Takacha, and Chiang Khan, caught a white elephant that had fled from the court of Ayutthaya and returned it to the court. Because of this feat, the leaders were appointed Luang to rule villages which were later upgraded to town status. Exhibits also depict the history of local economic, social customs, population and education.
4) Ethnology
Displays focus on the population of Surin, which can be divided into three groups: the Kuay, who excel at catching and training elephants, the Khmer and the Laos, who are renowned for beautiful silk weaving.
5) Local Heritage
This exhibition highlights aspects of well-known cultural heritage of Surin, including silver ornament production, silk weaving, folk performances and the lives of the Kuay and their elephants.
So basically, there is nothing here, right? Well from my point of view, I’m a lot wiser now with a far better understanding of this interesting province. The visit has also assisted me in identifying and locating at least the major attractions in Surin.
Phanom Sawai Forest Park……..Now heading south into Prasat district we resume our temple hunting. However first there is a detour signposted Phanom Sawai Forest Park. This park requires an awkward drive along country roads. Within the park is a water recess in the surrounded low hills formed by weathering which is quite scenic supporting a variety of plants. Unfortunately, out of season the ponds are dry and not at their best not warranting further investigation.
1) Natural Sciences
This section illustrates the physical characteristics of Surin-topography, climate, geology, natural resources and rice-farming in Surin, one of the top producers of high quality jasmine rice in Thailand.
2) History-Archaeology
This exhibition shows cultural development from the pre-historic period of about 2000-1500 years ago through the Dvaravati period (7th-8th century), Khmer culture period (7th-13th centuries), and the Lan Chang-Ayutthaya period (14th-18th centuries).
3) Surin History
This display illustrates the history of Surin beginning in 1759 when the Kuay leaders, composed of Chiang Phum, Chiang Kha, Chiangsi, Takacha, and Chiang Khan, caught a white elephant that had fled from the court of Ayutthaya and returned it to the court. Because of this feat, the leaders were appointed Luang to rule villages which were later upgraded to town status. Exhibits also depict the history of local economic, social customs, population and education.
4) Ethnology
Displays focus on the population of Surin, which can be divided into three groups: the Kuay, who excel at catching and training elephants, the Khmer and the Laos, who are renowned for beautiful silk weaving.
5) Local Heritage
This exhibition highlights aspects of well-known cultural heritage of Surin, including silver ornament production, silk weaving, folk performances and the lives of the Kuay and their elephants.
So basically, there is nothing here, right? Well from my point of view, I’m a lot wiser now with a far better understanding of this interesting province. The visit has also assisted me in identifying and locating at least the major attractions in Surin.
Phanom Sawai Forest Park……..Now heading south into Prasat district we resume our temple hunting. However first there is a detour signposted Phanom Sawai Forest Park. This park requires an awkward drive along country roads. Within the park is a water recess in the surrounded low hills formed by weathering which is quite scenic supporting a variety of plants. Unfortunately, out of season the ponds are dry and not at their best not warranting further investigation.
Phanom Sawai Forest Park, City District, Surin
Within the park are 3 major peaks. The first peak is called Chai Peak (Phanom Prawh), 200 metres high where the Buddha image Phra Buddha Surin Monkol is enshrined. The second peak is Ying Peak (Phanom Srai), 210 metres high, where Wat Phanom Sileram is located. The third peak is Khok Peak (Phanom Krol), 150 metres high, where the Buddhist Society of Surin Province has built the ‘Atthamuk’ Pavilion on top as a memorial to celebrate the Rattanakosin 200 year anniversary where a replica Buddha Footprint has been enshrined. With the detour leading us away from major roads the GPS struggles to find a sensible way though the mass of rural roads, often reduced to tracks. After what seems ages were are directed to the first Khmer ruin.
Chedi Luang Pho Dun A-Tulo, Phanom Sawai Ancient Ruins and Sacred Stone Turtle, City District, Surin
Prasat Thanong……..Finally arriving at Prasat Thanon, I find a larger Khmer sanctuary built on two bases in laterite with doorways and lintels in sandstone. For once there is no information in English I can use which is a pity. That may be because the site is in the process of being renovated.
Prasat Thanong, Prasat District, Surin
Prasat Ban Phluang……..The excursion into the interior of Prasat districts has absorbed, or put another way has wasted, time with little to show for the effort. While we stop for a very late lunch, I’m hoping the next Khmer ruin will be more interesting. Certainly, Prasat Ban Phluang looks a more impressive site from photographs I’ve seen. Arriving at the compound, I note there is a fee for entry. With the Khmer structure, clearly in view from the road, I don’t see the point in entering the site. Besides, another problem has developed. The battery in my Canon is depleted so I’m forced to use the mobile phone. As I search for the almost mandatory information in English, there is none but fortunately, I have a tourist guide for Surin which describes it as, ‘a one prang prasat situated on a laterite base, built in sandstone’. It was constructed in the Baphuan Art style (1007-1107).
Prasat Ban Phluang, Prasat District, Surin
Restricted……..Now at about 4pm we might just make it to what will be our final destination for the day but Katoon sees a sign to another sanctuary. I note this as one on my list for later but as we're just 10 kilometres away, we have time to go there now. Passing through rubber plantations on poor roads we halt at a border police checkpoint. The sanctuary known as Prasat Ta Kwai is still 5 kilometres away but we’re not allowed to pass. The last entry is 3pm presumably to ensure that the site is secure: The prasat is located on the Cambodia border where the Khmer Rouge once roamed freely. Even more recently there has been tension here.
Phanom Dong Rak……..Finding more deserted roads with even more potholes we finally make it to Phanom Dong Rak where there is accommodation. With my intended destination, still 15 kilometres away, enough is enough. Less than half of what I’d hoped to achieve today has been achieved which puts more pressure on my plans for this tour. Finding ourselves at Yupin Resort we are comfortable enough and get a chance to rest, not even bothering to go out for dinner after a big lunch earlier. That seems just as well as there’s unlikely to be anything suitable nearby. Next Page.
Phanom Dong Rak……..Finding more deserted roads with even more potholes we finally make it to Phanom Dong Rak where there is accommodation. With my intended destination, still 15 kilometres away, enough is enough. Less than half of what I’d hoped to achieve today has been achieved which puts more pressure on my plans for this tour. Finding ourselves at Yupin Resort we are comfortable enough and get a chance to rest, not even bothering to go out for dinner after a big lunch earlier. That seems just as well as there’s unlikely to be anything suitable nearby. Next Page.