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Day 8 - Monday 23 March 2015
Cape Talumphuk revisited……..photo. This morning is a repeat of the previous. I have to order water for the bathroom! Maybe there is some mains water but the accommodation is on the first floor with a parking space underneath. That wouldn’t help. The internet comes on soon after. It’s seems no matter how hard I try to get an early start there always seems to be some delay and 10pm is the best I can do after breakfast. With the coastline covered the remaining time needs to be spent exploring the interior of Nakhon Si Thammarat Province where there’s absolutely no shortage of options. Yet initially it doesn’t seem I’m leaving the coastline too soon. I head back towards Cape Talumphuk for a second visit. On my visit on Saturday there wasn’t enough time to reach the cape itself. All I know is that a road continues past the village but for how far, I’ve no idea. When I reach the village this time, I carry on through it for a few hundred metres but the road is damaged and reduced to a sand track. It doesn’t look like I can go much further. Instead I take a look around on foot but there’s no sign of the cape’s end; nor would there be if it were not for a stroke of luck. I mentioned before that the sandbar was being reinforced with a rock wall. The machinery is still at work there and the surveyor just happens to turn up. His pickup has no real problem in crossing the broken road. When we ask how far it is to the cape he explains it’s at least 5 kms but if we want he could take us there. He obviously knows the area and it’s an offer hard to refuse. As he pulls away there seems to be no further blockage in the road. In fact the road is passable now with care, all the way to the cape. It’s really a there and back job but I have enough time to take photos. Back at the start point I convey my appreciation but I really must leave the coastline behind now. I head back to the town of Pak Phanang. On the way curious concrete structures appear which I later identify as swiftlet houses.
Cape Talumphuk revisited……..photo. This morning is a repeat of the previous. I have to order water for the bathroom! Maybe there is some mains water but the accommodation is on the first floor with a parking space underneath. That wouldn’t help. The internet comes on soon after. It’s seems no matter how hard I try to get an early start there always seems to be some delay and 10pm is the best I can do after breakfast. With the coastline covered the remaining time needs to be spent exploring the interior of Nakhon Si Thammarat Province where there’s absolutely no shortage of options. Yet initially it doesn’t seem I’m leaving the coastline too soon. I head back towards Cape Talumphuk for a second visit. On my visit on Saturday there wasn’t enough time to reach the cape itself. All I know is that a road continues past the village but for how far, I’ve no idea. When I reach the village this time, I carry on through it for a few hundred metres but the road is damaged and reduced to a sand track. It doesn’t look like I can go much further. Instead I take a look around on foot but there’s no sign of the cape’s end; nor would there be if it were not for a stroke of luck. I mentioned before that the sandbar was being reinforced with a rock wall. The machinery is still at work there and the surveyor just happens to turn up. His pickup has no real problem in crossing the broken road. When we ask how far it is to the cape he explains it’s at least 5 kms but if we want he could take us there. He obviously knows the area and it’s an offer hard to refuse. As he pulls away there seems to be no further blockage in the road. In fact the road is passable now with care, all the way to the cape. It’s really a there and back job but I have enough time to take photos. Back at the start point I convey my appreciation but I really must leave the coastline behind now. I head back to the town of Pak Phanang. On the way curious concrete structures appear which I later identify as swiftlet houses.
Uthokwapat Prasit Watergate……..As I cross the main bridge over the estuary I glance to my left and notice the Uthokwapat Prasit Watergate upriver which is clearly marked on my map. It’s a project initiated by the King to manage the water flow in the area. The land surrounding it is given over to recreation and a palace for the Royal Family is located nearby. It’s a circular detour of interest but I really must leave Pak Panang district now and head back to Nakhon Si Thammarat.
Thung Song……..I connect with Highway 403 on the outskirts of Nakhon Si heading for Ron Philum and take a break for lunch. On this occasion I find a midrange restaurant for a change and that means more substantial dining. I am amazed at some of the flavours of southern curries, clearly using local ingredients. That lunch break has taken longer than normal. I must press on. At Ron Philum I connect with Highway 41, the main artery running north from Phattalung to Chumphon. My next stop will be Thung Song. For the first time since I left Khanom, the mountains appear. At Thung Song there is only one thing I need to do. This town is one of the South’s important rail junctions on the main line from Bangkok to the Malaysian border. It picks up a spur line from Trang and Kantang. Even so, when I arrive there is little activity; just one engine running light. Fortunately its one I’ve never seen before. Regarding the track layout, it signifies the junction’s importance. That little excursion out of the way, it’s time to head into the mountains.
Wat That Noi……..First I continue along the 41, signposted, Surat Thani. I’m looking for a right turn towards Chang Klang. However I end up on a minor road; it’s probably a short-cut but eventually I cross the railway line and find the town of Klong Chandi. Here is located an important temple in the style of Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan. When I reach the temple it’s very busy with vendors doing good business. I’ve arrived on the wrong side of the railway line so need to cross it on foot. This is the main line but there are no protective barriers. I head through the vendors stalls and into the temple. The chedi is to my left and in front of the chedi is a large wax image of Portan Klai (1876-1970). Further to the left is a large reclining Buddha image. The temple was the residence of Portan Klai, said to be one of the most famous guru monks of his generation. His mortal remains are located in the chedi.
Frustrated……..It’s now after 5pm and I need to find accommodation. This endeavor is a repeat of so many late afternoons when I find myself in a strange town. The area must have accommodation but where is it? The process of asking and looking around is really tedious sometimes and as I’m passed from pillar to post I’m cutting it really fine to find something. With splendid mountain scenery all around I would expect to see resorts but the ones I’m told about are up in the mountains. Do I really have time to check them out? The best option seems to be 4 kms into the hills and I head there. At around 6pm I find a resort but there are no air-conditioned rooms available. It is some consolation that there are stunning views across to possibly the province’s most spectacular peak, Khao Men. At least the owner is most helpful in suggesting an alternative and I head back towards the Klong Chandi. When I finally pick up signs I’m practically back where I started, having travelled some 40 kms. It’s just baffling. The accommodation is quite near the town of but there’s only room service. Nothing is free. It’s acceptable but my first impressions are not great as the staff seem to be disorganised. It’s a larger type resort with two-story accommodation so the friendliness which has greeted me in the smaller resorts is missing.
Iron monsters……..photo. Without unpacking, I head down into town looking for dinner. Around the town’s train station is the perfect setting for that. Its budget dinning but the spectacle of iron monsters appearing out of the gloom is theatre to me. It’s left to me to pick up snacks for the morning. I’m going to miss the free coffee and toast. Back at the room at 8.30pm there’s not much time to work on my blog. There comes a point when tiredness takes over and concentration disappears. One thing I can predict about tomorrow is that there is no shortage of natural attractions in the area so I intend to give it a real go! Next Page.
