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NAKHON SI THAMMARAT - 16 to 26 March 2015

Khao Ply Dam Bay, Sichon District, Nakhon Si Thammarat Province


Day 4 - Thursday 19 March 2015

Khanom Departure……..I’m awake at 7am and catch up with some news for a change. I will be leaving Khanom today with some regret. However Nakhon Si Thammarat Province is still open for me to explore. Besides I need to control my budget for this tour and lazing around in resorts in expensive accommodation is not helping. With the fuel I’ve used getting here I need to steady the ship with some budget travel for the next couple of days, at least. The owner of Ban Chomlay continues to do whatever it takes to make me comfortable, providing a cooked breakfast, but maybe he can afford to. We seem to be the only residents last night and I had the beach to myself. As I reported this is an idyllic location. If I had to critical, I’d say that the rooms need more furniture and workspace for those who have a laptop; the terrace table is not really suitable. Then just as I was about to allocate a good score, the owners dog bit me. It caused a red mark but soon faded. The owner was unapologetic, explaining that the dog was old and could only really ‘suck you to death’. Not surprisingly I left it late to depart, taking a final dip in the ocean. It is after 11pm before I'm on my way. As a final farewell, I had planned a visit to one of the caves in the area, recommended for its huge caverns but I failed to locate the turn and continued along Highway 4014 soon to join the 401 heading south the Nakhon Si Thammarat. The city is not much more than an hour’s drive away. After 3 days of recording no historical, religious or cultural sites, that would be put right when I reach the city. However I’m receptive to anything else that may turn up on the way. Nakhon Si Thammarat has a mountain range that runs centrally from north to south in the province. Only in the north does it reach the coast. With plenty more bays to explore, I’m in no hurry and explore the coastline south of Khanom as far as the next district, Sichon.
Sichon……..Sichon has a small port, Pak Naam Sichon. The tidal river is a refuge for fishing vessels and is otherwise lined with mangrove. The village also displays a large statue of the Prince of Chumphon a local naval hero. More about him can be found on my tour pages for Prachuap and Chumphon otherwise I will add more detail here later. While at the memorial, it was suggested that I head north to the next headland. But not before I take lunch in the town where I can keep to my budget.


Top row: Sunrise at Khanom (1), Shoreline in Sichon District (2&3), - Nakhon Si Thammarat Province
Bottom Row: Prince of Chumphon memorial at Sichon Port (1), Sichon Port (2), Shoreline at Sichon Port (3), - Nakhon Si Thammarat Province

Khao Ply Dam Bay…….. When I again checked the map for the area, I found the cape situated on the provincial border with Khanom. As I took the gradient over the cape I was greeted with an amazing view of the small bay tucked away at the base of the forested hills. Arriving at the bay, I noticed a tourist information centre. The locals obviously know about this peaceful place and those who make it here are privileged indeed. There is one resort listed here with that name. I make my way back to Sichon and across the estuary where I pause to take more photographs of the port. At this rate it will take ages to get to Nakhon Si Thammarat.



Khao Ply Dam Bay, Sichon District and Sichon Port (bottom row 2&3), Nakhon Si Thammarat Province

Tha Sala……..The next bay listed is Hin Ngan Beach and when I arrive there are just rocks but from here a sandy beach stretches as far as the eye can see. There are no more bays. Further, the beach is cluttered with debris of all descriptions and very soon I realise that I should rejoin the main Highway 401 heading south. The next district is Tha Sala and at a T junction I bare left where a signboard points to the museum at Haad Sai Gao. This private museum displays an impressive collection of antique and vintage items from the local area and its association with the sea. Pride of place are relics from the days of the Prince of Chumphon. It’s really a pity that there is no brochure or anything in English I can use. Perhaps the display will mean more when I visit the museum in Nakhon Si. It is left for me to visit the beach where a party of schoolchildren are enjoying themselves. From Tha Sala, the city is now just 20 minutes away and I’ve no other reason to delay arrival.




Private museum at Haad Sai Gao, Sichon District, Nakhon Si Thammarat Province

Nakhon Si Thammarat……..Arriving in the city there seems to be no by-pass and Highway 401 terminates. I’m soon in busy streets trying to get my bearings. I instinctively head for the railway station but the station is in the heart of the old town. Here, the streets are narrow and overwhelmed with modern day traffic where the station is located. If I had any thoughts of staying in the city, they are fast disappearing as I struggle with the congestion and eternal wait at traffic lights looking for something appealing. I just have to give it up and find something quieter outside the city. Suitable accommodation continues to elude me and then after what seems an eternity, like a number 47 bus, they arrive one after another. Pan Garden, at first, seems like the usual discrete guest accommodation but they also have VIP rooms at the rear. The rooms are new and appear to tick all the boxes. The price is just about on budget and I waste no time in taking a break. At 6.30pm, I decide to go out to eat rather than using room service. I end up at a Korean BBQ grill buffet. That’s really filling but I must get back and work on my blog and that will take time. Next Page.