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Day 5 - Friday 20 March 2015
Pan Garden……..photo. Pan Garden is located to the left off the Phattanakan Khu Kwang Road heading south on the southern end of town. It is convenient for the National Museum, Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan and Suchart Subsins’s Shadow Puppet Museum. It consists of a mixture of discrete guest accommodation and VIP bungalows. The discrete rooms seem to dominate the area and are often full. While I don’t want to go into the reason for discretion I should just point out that they can be identified by the fact that vehicles can be parked in front of the room behind a closed door or curtain. The VIP bungalows at Pan Garden are at the rear and VIP accommodation is what it is. I cannot fault it. What is different is that coffee and hot water is available in the room but no ‘knompang’. Room service however is available. In relative comfort I’m late waking up and grateful for a coffee in the room. Otherwise I skip breakfast. At 10.30am I inform reception I will be staying another night. This will enable me to explore the city.
Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan……..As I head off I’m struggling to get my orientation. I don’t even know exactly where Pan Garden is but Phattanakan Khu Kwang Road is one the roads that run parallel through the city north to south. Ratchadamnoen Road is the principal road that runs through the city and the point of reference to all the important tourist sites in the city. I need to find it to get to Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, my first stop. Fortunately the traffic is light and I’m there quite soon. My arrival at this important site puts to an end, days of travel without any reference to historic or religious sites. It is most apt that the drought should end at a UNESCO World Heritage Site which on the nomination list, awaiting approval. It is very difficult to explain in a few words just why this temple is so important but like declared UNESCO heritage sites in Thailand its age is the key. In fact this site almost certainly predates some of the others and is reckoned to be the most important religious site in Thailand. While the present chedi was constructed at the time of the Sukhothai kingdom (13th century), archeological evidence suggests that a flourishing seaport was located here as far back is the 5th century. The basis for religion then was Hindu but the basis of the UNESCO submission is the first introduction of Theravada Buddhism which persists to this day.
Pan Garden……..photo. Pan Garden is located to the left off the Phattanakan Khu Kwang Road heading south on the southern end of town. It is convenient for the National Museum, Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan and Suchart Subsins’s Shadow Puppet Museum. It consists of a mixture of discrete guest accommodation and VIP bungalows. The discrete rooms seem to dominate the area and are often full. While I don’t want to go into the reason for discretion I should just point out that they can be identified by the fact that vehicles can be parked in front of the room behind a closed door or curtain. The VIP bungalows at Pan Garden are at the rear and VIP accommodation is what it is. I cannot fault it. What is different is that coffee and hot water is available in the room but no ‘knompang’. Room service however is available. In relative comfort I’m late waking up and grateful for a coffee in the room. Otherwise I skip breakfast. At 10.30am I inform reception I will be staying another night. This will enable me to explore the city.
Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan……..As I head off I’m struggling to get my orientation. I don’t even know exactly where Pan Garden is but Phattanakan Khu Kwang Road is one the roads that run parallel through the city north to south. Ratchadamnoen Road is the principal road that runs through the city and the point of reference to all the important tourist sites in the city. I need to find it to get to Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, my first stop. Fortunately the traffic is light and I’m there quite soon. My arrival at this important site puts to an end, days of travel without any reference to historic or religious sites. It is most apt that the drought should end at a UNESCO World Heritage Site which on the nomination list, awaiting approval. It is very difficult to explain in a few words just why this temple is so important but like declared UNESCO heritage sites in Thailand its age is the key. In fact this site almost certainly predates some of the others and is reckoned to be the most important religious site in Thailand. While the present chedi was constructed at the time of the Sukhothai kingdom (13th century), archeological evidence suggests that a flourishing seaport was located here as far back is the 5th century. The basis for religion then was Hindu but the basis of the UNESCO submission is the first introduction of Theravada Buddhism which persists to this day.
Top Row: Grotto (1&2) Budda Footprint (3), Second Row: Early Cannon (3), Third Row: Viharn Tap Kaset (3)
Bottom Row: Viharn Tap Kaset (1) Wat Phra Mahathat Museum (3)
Wat Phra Mahathat Museum……..The Wat Phra Mahathat Museum is located in the grounds of the temple. While it’s not unusual to site a museum in temple grounds, I soon establish that many of the items on display there are not related the temple itself but appear by way of donation by various benefactors. What they do represent is the rich and prosperous culture that has developed in the area over a long period of time. The sheer volume of ceramics, for example, from far and wide re-enforce the importance of trade with other nations. Some of the earliest examples are from China, Vietnam and India. Without great knowledge in this area, I can only imagine some are priceless. When I entered the museum I was told that no photographs were allowed. The practical reason is the risk of theft if the collection is published widely. While I’m sure all the cabinets are locked and wired, I thought security was otherwise hardly high-tech. In addition to the ceramics, metal ware, bronze ware, enamel ware, wood carvings, cook ware and fabrics etc. make this a must see site in its own right. Understandably I’ve given the two sites as much time as a really can afford. I still haven’t had breakfast and even lunch now is not exactly early.
Suchart Subsins’s Shadow Puppet Museum……..As I look around for a suitable place to eat, it’s quite noticeable how poorly directed the tourist attractions are. Even the streets don’t have names at junctions. Katoon works hard obtaining directions from local people and to their credit; I’ve not met one who wasn’t helpful or at least tried to be. The next location though is not far away. Suchart Subsins’s Shadow Puppet Museum was created by a puppet master whose artwork received the attention of the King. The museum houses puppets used in traditional theatre which still continues. The good news is that the puppet making tradition has remained in the family and visitors can purchase modern examples and watch them being produced.
Suchart Subsins’s Shadow Puppet Museum……..As I look around for a suitable place to eat, it’s quite noticeable how poorly directed the tourist attractions are. Even the streets don’t have names at junctions. Katoon works hard obtaining directions from local people and to their credit; I’ve not met one who wasn’t helpful or at least tried to be. The next location though is not far away. Suchart Subsins’s Shadow Puppet Museum was created by a puppet master whose artwork received the attention of the King. The museum houses puppets used in traditional theatre which still continues. The good news is that the puppet making tradition has remained in the family and visitors can purchase modern examples and watch them being produced.
Nakhon Si Thammarat National Museum……..The Nakhon Si Thammarat National Museum is located at the southern end of the city on Ratchadamnoen Road. As usual there is a higher rate for foreigners and more than at some other national museums. What you do get is the inclusion of good English supporting the exhibits, without which I would not be able to fully appreciate what they represent. For the extra cost for foreigners I would suggest they add air-conditioning but I learnt that approval for that has been granted. Certainly I would not wish to discourage visiting the museum which is a pre-requisite to understanding about this unique province and why they do things differently from other areas of Thailand. The tour of the museum starts with pre-history and examples of archeological finds from three periods of habitation they identify are on display. Then, exhibits concentrate on Thai artifacts starting with stone sculptures from the Dvaravati Period (6th-7th centuries). Hindu art and sculptures form an important part of the collection, with rich finds from the area uncovered. It fact Hindu art has never really disappeared and still leaves a legacy today. The display continues with folk art and objects from daily life. Much of the rest of the collection contain ceramics and other ware, similar to that on display at Wat Phra Mahathat Museum. There are a few other galleries which relate directly to religion and local wisdom of Nakhon Si Thammarat. Also unique to this museum is the display of Brahmanist objects from the old city of Tambralinga which stood on the site of modern Nakhon Si Thammarat.
With the time now mid afternoon, I’m feeling the strain of intense heat; now in the high 30sC. Without a sea breeze it’s as uncomfortable as in the Chao Phraya Delta and I have to end proceedings and head back to Pan Garden. I get an hour’s rest in favorable conditions but at 4.30pm I decide to have another go.
With the time now mid afternoon, I’m feeling the strain of intense heat; now in the high 30sC. Without a sea breeze it’s as uncomfortable as in the Chao Phraya Delta and I have to end proceedings and head back to Pan Garden. I get an hour’s rest in favorable conditions but at 4.30pm I decide to have another go.
Other business……..I realise I can’t cover the city sites in one day but just maybe I can tick a few more boxes before dark. I head back to Ratchadamnoen Road but this time turn north towards the central district. Before too long the City Wall comes into view and the old city gate to my right. The wall ran right across the main road here. The wall represents the boundary of the old city but today it is the boundary to the City Park which is a well supported recreation area. To the north of the park lies the City Pillar Shrine. By now I’ve covered perhaps two thirds of the city and it should be possible to cover the rest of the important sites in the city tomorrow. Rather earlier than yesterday, I take dinner and add some supplies for morning breakfast. With an earlier return to my room I can spend longer on my blog. Today has been hard work in the heat, as it was on my Western Province Tour, earlier. However perseverance has paid dividends and I’m wiser as a result. Tomorrow I should be able to leave the city but the destination is not clear as I call it a day. Next Page.