Day 13 - Tuesday 27 December 2016

More ancient ruins........It may be a general health issue but restless nights continue. It has been quite hot in the day and I’ve worked harder than I really should with another day labouring around ancient monuments yesterday. I continue to suffer from nasal congestion at night which may well be from the air conditioning system. Well, we’ll know later as this was the last night at Honey Hotel. At 6am I may as well work on my blog and manage to get it up to date. Then before breakfast I check again on how well I’ve covered the ancient sites in Chiang Saen. It appears I’ve missed seven off the main list and check the map for location. Realising that they are all in the old city except one, I make the decision to add them to my visit list which will delay departure by at least an hour.
At 10am I head back through the northern gate. Knowing that I haven’t covered this area, I start recording immediately but initially find nothing on my work list. It’s incredible really that already with a substantial work list, temples are still appearing. The Fine Art Department in Thailand have done an amazing job and while they keep offering the results of their work, I’m happy to keep recording it. Soon however I get my bearings and my to do list starts to reduce. By 11am I’m finished in the central area and heading out of the western gate. The final temple is located on my direction of travel and so comes to an end a crazy spell recording one of Thailand’s ancient civilisations. The site list for the morning reads:

Wat Boonyuen........Wat Boonyuen lies to the north of the city near the Yang-thung (northern) Gate. It was built in 1366 by Thao Mahaphrom, the ruler of Chiang Rai for keeping relics of the Buddha and his disciples. It was reconstructed in 1796 when the Burmese occupied the city but was abandoned soon after. Excavations in 2005/06 found the reconstructed viharn and the chedi.
Wat Chiang Man........Wat Chiang Man also lies near the northern gate. The legend of Chiang Saen states that it was built in 640 and named Aram Chiang Man Chang Khung to house a relic of the Buddha. When the city of Chiang Saen was built in 1327 Phaya Saenpoo ordered the ruin to be rebuilt naming it Aram Chiang Man. As with so many temples in Chiang Saen it was abandoned after Chao Kawila of Chiangmai with support from Bangkok defeated the Burmese garrison.

Yang-thung Gate/Fort........The Yang-thung Gate is the northern entrance to the old city of Chiang Saen. It consistes of a horsehoe shaped defensive wall, long enough to enclose a small garrison. The wall is surrounded by a moat.

Wat Arthi Ton Kaew........Wat Arthi Ton Kaew was constructed in 1515 by Phra Muang Kaeo, the ruler of Chiang Mai. At the time there was conflict between different monasteries and the ruler, aiming at reconciliation, was keen to establish a common ordination process for young monks so they could take part in the same religious ceremonies.

Wat Roi Kho........Wat Roi Kho is a temple ruin with no recorded history. It consists of a chedi on a square base which supports a lotus chamber with rebated corners and torus mouldings. On top of the chamber is the octagonal shaped stupa. The viharn lies to the east. It consists of solid brick walls with a pedestal supporting a limed Buddha image of Lanna and Chiang Saen art. The temple seems to have been constructed in the 16th Century.

Wat Phuok Phan Tong........Wat Phuok Phan Tong lies on 2nd Road in the northern half of the city but there is no evidence for its construction. The temple consists of a chedi with a viharn in the front facing east. Some objects have been found here consistent with the temple being in use in the 16th Century. When the Burmese invaded in 1774, legend states that the monk Khru Ba asked for peace in the city. After Lanna attacked the city in 1804, it is claimed that the people paraded through the temple to resettle in Chiang Mai.

Wat Phra Khao Pan........Phra Khao Pan overlooks the Mekong River on the western side. The temple is in use but at the back is an important chedi with a square chamber with niches on each side for a Buddha image. The stupa is bell-shaped. Within the temple a stone inscription was found indicating that the temple was built in the period of Phaya Luang of Chiang Saen about 1615/16. However it is likely another temple existed before this as legend claims that a temple was built here in 761.

Wat Chetawan........According to the Yonok chronicle, Wat Chetawan was constructed around 1636/37 during a period of Burmese control. It was built at the palace of Nang Fa Ka Pruak. It has a bell-shaped chedi behind a viharn facing east. On the base of the viharn sits a huge pedestal on which the Buddha image sat.

Wat Phra Yeun........Legend states that Wat Phra Yeun was built by the son of Phaya Saenphoo, Phaya Khamfoo in 1331 for keeping Buddha relics. It was ordered to be rebuilt in 1638. At present only the chedi has been found. It consists of a triple square base on top of which is a rebated chamber supporting the octagonal stupa with several tiers.
Wat Phra Chao Thong Noi........Wat Phra Chao Thong Noi lies near the centre of the city. This is a good example of a temple built in the golden age, 16th Century but with no provenance. It is included in the Fine Arts Department list but all that is known is what exists of the chedi and the damaged base of the viharn where the Buddha would have sat at the far end facing east.

Wat Prachao Lanthong........Wat Prachao Lanthong is a working temple on the right hand side of the road leading to the Pa Sak (western) Gate. It lies in the middle of the city. The temple contains ancient monuments including the bell shaped chedi at the rear. Two Buddha images from ancient times, mentioned in the Yonok chronicle can be found at this temple. Prachao Lanthong gives its name to the temple; the other is named Prachao Thongthip and could be older.

Wat Mung Muang........Wat Mung Muang is one of Chiang Saen’s older temples. It is located not far from the National Museum. The chedi has a vertically square chamber in prasat style with a niche on each side for a Buddha image. Although there are similarities with the main chedi at Wat Pa Sak, this temple is 14th Century.

Wat Phra Baut........According to legend, Wat Phra Baut was constructed around 1346 making it one of the oldest temples in Chiang Saen. It consists of a brick chedi to the north of the viharn and having a rebated lotus base. The viharn faces east and houses a pedistal where the Buddha image was enshrined. The architecture is consistant with the 14th century.
Wat Ku Tao........Wat Ku Tao is located outside the western gate and close to Highway 1016 in the direction of Chiang Rai. Obscured by trees on the left of the road after the roundabout this temple has a vertical rounded chamber on a square base. The temple is probably late 16th Century but has features resembling some temples in Chiang Mai and Lampoon.

Return to Chiang Rai........While I head back to Chiang Rai I consider adding to the sites I visited there earlier. I recall thinking I could do a better particularly in achieving a better balance of sites. No categories are every ruled out but sometimes there are restrictions. National Parks are a problem due to the physical effort involved but also I have to consider the cost. I receive no income from this website so in considering whether to pay site fees I have to make a judgement as to whether the investment in time and money would add significant value to it. In the case of Chiang Rai there are a number of cultural centres and those with historic interest. Since I left Chaing Rai earlier, I have added significantly to coverage of the main categories as I’ve travelling to other locations: The museum Chiang Saen being a major contributor. As I check through my list for Chiang Rai again, of the remaining sites I start to illiminate them for reasons I’ve explained. Finally I’m left with just one site and that falls into a category that is certainly inadequately represented and that’s Art and Crafts.
Baandam (Black House)........As I left Chaing Rai on 22nd, I located Baamdam (Black House) but failed to enter the complex to carry out a proper review. Ever since then that seems to have come back to haunt me. I simply had to go back to put my mind at rest. On arrival it is just as busy as it was last week but I’m soon inside. Just to recap. The Black Temple, created by Thailand's national artist Thawan Duchanee, include nearly 40 small black houses made of wood, glass, concrete, bricks, or terracotta in various unique styles and design scattered around the temple area. The cluster of houses accommodates Thawan’s collections of paintings, sculptures, animal bones, skins, horns, and silver and gold items from around the world. While art to my mind depends on the eye of the beholder, which makes me totally blind, even I can see the point of this exhibition. It’s designed to frighten the living daylights out of you or at the very least nullify any feeling of light heartedness. It’s really serious stuff. To the credit of the artist, his power of imagination and design extends well beyond the base material he uses. With the sheer quantity of objects he’s incorporated into his art, he’s had to accommodate it all. Accordingly he’s designed a number of halls, essentially all in black. Each hall is different in size but most are houses that reflect Burmese or Balinese style with art dating back to the Ayutthaya Period. Only occasionally does he stray. One structure reminds me of Jonah and the whale. Entry is 80 baht and certainly worth that. Now having scratched another location in the city which is closed for a reason I know not, it’s back onto Highway 1 to head south.

Uttaradit........Google Map. Given it’s now 2pm. I can declare a destination but it’s not the one I had intended. I wished to return to Lampang for that incredible railway journey up to Doi Khun Tan but still feeling drained of energy I opt for another route back to Bangkok. I have to get my head down for a while, leaving Katoon to take us back to Phayao, after which I take over for the next leg to Phrae. But with the time now 5,30pm, Katoon is happy to press on, taking over halfway to the next city which is Uttaradit. This takes us over a mountain pass but the road is a national highway and presents no difficulty except that it’s getting dark. With no idea that we would reach this far today obviously no plans were made for accommodation. Uttaradit has grown into a reasonably sized city and this mean’s a ritual, always stressful for me, of finding accommodation. Usually accommodation is concentrated in one general area but where is it? It takes an hour driving around the city in evening traffic before we find Chedsada Road and then like a number 11 bus, accommodation arrives one after another. Jessada Hotel is the one we select not only for the price, just 390 baht, but for overall facilities. At around 8pm we head out for dinner without time to refresh. We don’t need the car for that. Despite fatigue, I hope to stay awake to listen to commentary of Bishops Cleeve v Hereford but I manage just the first half confident of a win: The final score 4 : 0 to us (2 : 0 at half time). Next Page.