Day 8 - Thursday 22 December 2016

Satisfied........In terms of covering the main sites in and around Chiang Rai yesterday, I’m quite satisfied but there are still a number of interesting sites I’d like to cover. The plan is to complete them in reasonable time today then head onto the next district but I’m not on the road that soon. My blog though is more up to date. I had intended to add more detail for the ancient sites in Si Satchanalai Historical Park but there were so many of them that it looks like I’ll have to wait till I return to Bangkok. Breakfast is similar to yesterday and it’s quite pleasant sitting out on the patio in the shade of a warming sun. 10.30am is not exactly ideal for a start but there are some sites still on my list in the city not far away.
Hilltribe Museum and Education Centre........The Hilltribe Museum is located in a multi-story building off Wisetwiang Road. The centre is housed on the 3rd floor and relates to the various ethnic groups found in Northern Thailand. Each has its own customs, dialect and dress and some their own written language. The museum, although small give a good insight into their daily lives and how these have been moulded into a Thai social structure over time. The centre advises on protocol for those visiting hilltribe villages and exhibits some of the tools and home ware used in a tradition of hunting, fishing and farming and in the production of costume. It also deals with problem of opium production.

Wat Phra That Doi Chom Thong........The next site is a temple located to the west of the town on a low hill. Wat Phra That Doi Chom Thong, located on Doi Chom Thong Hill on the banks of the Kok River within the town area, contains what is believed to be the oldest holy relic, even before King Mengrai founded Chiang Rai. The chedi containing the holy relic was probably renovated at the same time the town was being built. It is a major religious site in Chiang Rai. It was from here that King Mengrai spotted the strategic location on which to establish the town.

City Navel Pillar........The City Navel Pillar lies on a hill near Wat Phra That Doi Chom and performs a similar function to the pillar shrines of other towns but in this case the pillar isn’t enshrined but open and has provenance going back to the 13th Century. When King Mang Rai founded the city in 1263 declaring independence he chose this hill as the centre of his known universe and constructed his founding pillar upon it.

Shortcomings........Now, well into day 2 in Chiang Rai, I check on progress scanning the list I have produced of tour sites. As I intend to move further north later in the day I wonder if I’ve managed to cover the city sites reasonably well, accepting that I cannot visit them all. It soon becomes clear that a number of museums and cultural sites have not been included. Unfortunately Chaing Rai does not have a national museum which is a pity but instead a good number of small museums dealing with culture, history, art and religion of this region. Apart from the hilltribe museum and the religious sites, I’m aware that I have not covered the subject well and may have to correct that later. In an attempt to redress the imbalance we now head back down Highway 1211. I’m looking for Mae Fah Luang Art & Cultural Park. Locating it on a turning to the right, I’m disappointed to find an entry fee of 200 baht which of course is the rate for non-Thais. While this is not a great deal of money, there is no shortage of sites to visit for free or certainly less than 200 baht and I pass it by. After a pleasant lunch of kow soi, a northern curry, we return to the highway and head for the site we missed yesterday.
Singha Park........Singha Park was on my list for a morning visit but it’s now early afternoon. When we arrive the tours around the park are fully booked till late afternoon which threatens the visit for a second time but there is the option of hiring q bicycle. The problem is the day is quite hot again and the terrain a bit hilly but then we notice private vehicles entering the park so why can’t we? With this problem solved we find our way around this beautifully landscaped park owned by the Boon Rawd Brewery Company. While there are a few attractions including a zip wire and a small zoo, the main attraction for us is the tea plantation laid out on a terraced hillside overlooking a large lake with stunning views of the mountains beyond, all this for free. It’s another site ticked off and a memorable one at that. It’s time to head back to Chiang Rai, cross the Kok River and deal with some of the northern sites but before we cross the river there’s an important site on the main intersection.

The King Mengrai the Great Memorial........photo. The King Mengrai the Great Memorial (right) is located in town on the intersection leading to Mae Chan. Originally, King Mengrai was the ruler of Nakhon Hiran Ngoen Yang (an ancient town on the bank of the Mae Khong or Mekong River around Chiang Saen) before Chiang Rai was established as the administrative centre in 1262. He consolidated his power by merging the different cities in the north and founded the Lanna Thai Kingdom in 1296 with Chiang Mai as the capital.
Baan dam Museum (AKA Black House or Black Temple)........As we continue north along Highway 1, I focus on a site about 10 minutes from the city that could help balance this tour with art and culture. Unfortunately the site has poor access and the site is so popular that there is a traffic jam in the parking area. Katoon suggests I step down anyway to visit the museum but for some reason I don’t pay the entry fee, just 80 baht, and content myself with taking photos just of the interesting buildings. When I return to the car there is a parking issue so I figure I could return to the site later at a quieter time. A note on this museum follows in anyway just in case I can't get back to it.
The Black Temple, created by Thailand's national artist Thawan Duchanee, include nearly 40 small black houses made of wood, glass, concrete, bricks, or terracotta in various unique styles and design scattered around the temple area. The cluster of houses accommodates Thawan’s collections of paintings, sculptures, animal bones, skins, horns, and silver and gold items from around the world. Several of the houses exhibit Balinese and Burmese architecture and art dating back to the Ayutthaya Period. The artist uses bones as a source of inspiration to paint. It is definitely not a place for animal lovers. There are also various kinds of baskets and drums from many regions and countries on display at Baandam.

Wat Rong Suea Ten........At this point Katoon wants to visit another temple but I fail to identify it. When I finally locate it, it’s back toward the city which has wasted time. Not only that, Google map has set the wrong GPS code and there’s further delay. Finally we locate Wat Rong Suea Ten. This temple gets it’s name, (suea=tiger), from the beasts that roamed here when the area was a wilderness. The monastery was established in 2005 in 6 acres of land. The temple is adorned with exquisite blue and gold. The sky blue colour represents Dharma, the Lord Buddha virtuous codes of morality. While tigers are a strong feature of the decor there are some vivid mural paintings on the internal wall of the viharn and the Singha principal image in white. At the rear of the hall is a chedi with spires, again decorated with blue and gold.

Mae Chan........Finally it’s time to move north and we head towards Mae Chan district. After an initial enquiry about accommodation we settle for a resort with rooms of traditional construction more like cabins. It is located south of the town on the right-hand side. Here again Google map has failed to help as do other online sources. Perhaps the town is just too small but on this occasion simple observation has been sufficient. Getting to the town itself requires a 5 minute drive. When we arrive at the open night market I’m expecting something wholesome and cheap but end up with fish soup and fried vegetables for a ridiculous price. Back at the room I make a rather half-hearted attempt at my blog. That means more work in the morning. Next Page.