Day 10 - Saturday 24 December 2016

Pusin Maisai Resort........The one thing I can say about Pusin Maisai Resort is that it’s cheap and I don’t know if that’s the reason but we seem to be the only occupants. Yet the resort sits in open land with picturesque views toward the mountains to the rear. The driveway services bungalows on both sides. You wouldn’t expect luxury at the price but the rooms are spacious and functional. In other circumstances I would be happy to use this as a base to tour the area but the plan now is to move on to Chiang Saen with no further intention of moving till we head back to Bangkok.

Christmas Eve........The fact that Christmas Day is fast approaching is not lost on me nor would I wish it. The idea of moving on the Chiang Saen is to find a setting fit for the occasion with hopefully a day off. Yet there is still no seasonal feeling; it could be just another day in summer. The weather has been warm and sunny throughout my stay in Chiang Rai but the nights are cooler at this time of year, enough to create early morning dew. Today it seems it's just and matter of filling in some blanks from yesterday and then I can chill out for a while.
Mae Sai........Just two locations are on the list and it seems the first will be Mai Sai, the only official crossing point into Myanmar in the northern region of Thailand. Too many years ago that I care to remember, I came to Mae Sai and stood on the bridge that connected the two countries. Mai Sai was then a dusty old town of little consequence. When I arrive this time so much has changed. It’s thriving as a border town with increasing prospects of a trade agreement between the two countries. However there is little here these days to greet tourists unless you live in Myanmar. When we arrive there are no parking spaces as merchandising takes priority. After taking a few photographs including the new border post we head back down Highway 1. Now that didn’t take long and perhaps it’s for the better.

Doi Tung........Google Map. While not the highest elevation of the province at 1,385 metres, Doi Tung rises steeply, standing isolated close to the Thailand-Myanmar border. It is in the area known as ‘Golden Triangle’. Most of the bedrock of the mountain is limestone and granite. The vegetation below 1,000 m is mostly deciduous forest and evergreen above this elevation. There are views of both Burma and Thailand from the top of this mountain. Shan, Akha and Lahu tribal villages are perched on the mountain sides. The Doi Tung Royal Villa, former residence of the Princess Mother (mother of the late king Rama IX) Somdej Phra Srinagarindra is also high up on the hill.
Armed with this basic information I calculate that a couple of hours on Doi Tung will be sufficient and I can look forward to a relaxing Christmas Eve. Doi Tung itself is about 30 minutes drive from Pusin Maesai Resort. The climb itself is not demanding; the road, although twisting, is well laid. The first point of interest is the Royal Villa and I’m in for a shock. OK it’s the beginning of the weekend but it’s a logistical headache trying to get so many cars parked on a mountain top. The problem is partially solved by providing a shuttle service for the last section of road up to the villa. With regard to parking I get lucky as just in front of me a car pulls out. It’s now a question of finding out what the fuss is all about. After all there are many Royal villas and palaces dotted all over Thailand. But of course there is added interest with the King passing away so recently. I head for the ticket booth well aware that it will not be free to enter the villa and grounds only to find that there are several attractions that are associated with the Queen Mother’s former residence. Tickets can be bought individually or in a block covering all the sites and are the same price for all. I agree to put my hand in my pocket and pay for the block at 200 baht. While that reduces the balance left in my pocket, it doesn’t reduce the time I allocated for this excursion. In fact I’ve got it totally wrong!
Mae Fah Luang Gardens........Mae Fah Luang Gardens is a botanical park on the slopes below the royal villa. Flowers and plants grow among rock formations. It was the Queen Mother’s intention to allow her subjects access to botanical species she would have known about on her travels but could only be grown in a cooler climate at altitude in Doi Tung.
Arriving at the gardens I note so many plant types familiar to me yet strange to the average Thai. What I can’t deny is the beauty of the floral display and how it fits in magnificently to the contours of the land. Here you can also get a glimpse of the nurseries providing stock for the park. Also available for a fee is a tree top walk, with ropes and suspended walkways. This facility is hugely popular with a long waiting list. Walking around the gardens takes time and not a little energy as you pass along the terraces. I thought it important to mention this for those less able with the park itself located as it is on a hillside. I manage to make my way around despite the exertion by which time it’s time to find something for lunch.

Doi Tung Royal Villa........As mentioned this was the residence of Somdej Phra Srinagarindra, the Queen Mother. This was her home in later life and a place she loved dearly. The villa was built of wood in traditional Lanna (northern) style.

After my exertions around the gardens, I didn’t really need another climb up to the villa where here again the people were arriving in droves to pay their respects. New arrivals are processed into groups with some clear does and don’ts; shoes off, of course and hats and no photographs inside the building. At the entrance I’m handed a headset and control to pick up commentary in English covering the points of interest inside the building. There is a brief introduction about the Queen Mother’s life but most of the commentary is about how she spent her time and energy on projects she clearly felt were more than just a hobby to her. As a biographical account I have to admit I get absorbed in it all and start to appreciate what a remarkable person she was. It becomes abundantly clear why she spent so much time in this remote location.
What is striking is the difference she made to the lives of local people. To better understand what a low point this area had descended to, you only need to turn the clock back a few decades. Through a period of social unrest and a reliance on opium there was mass exploitation of forest lands to the point when mass poverty ensued. It’s incredible to look at the stunning forest landscape today and appreciate what has been achieved through projects to create regeneration and alternate sources of income that has been created. Much of this work was done though the efforts of the Queen Mother. Certainly this visit to the villa has opened some eyes.
The Hall of Inspiration........Google Map. The Hall of Inspiration lies along the road above the gardens. If you don’t wish topay for entrance to the villa or the gardens, this site is free. With time really racing by and concern over making it to Chiang Saen before dark, the last thing I really needed was another time consuming site to take onboard. But as soon as you wander into the hall you get transfixed by the computer generated graphics, photographs, and personal accounts that reinforce what incredible things have been achieved here in a relatively short time. It’s no wonder that the United Nations see this as a model for turning back the tide of deforestation and destruction of the environment worldwide. ‘Inspiration’ is most definitely the right word here.
The time is now approaching 4pm and we haven’t finished. Neither of us had any idea the day would turn out like this and especially for me on Christmas Eve. We rejoin our vehicle; the other sites around Doi Tung can be accessed directly by road.
Mae Fa Luang Arboretum........The Mae Fa Luang Arboretum lies a further 10 kms. away and adjoins the border with Myanmar. Again this site has a beautiful terraced garden. Due to time constraints now there is only time to explore the garden with its plant species more commonly found in temperate zones. No doubt given time there would be other areas to explore, more typical of an arboretum but also requiring some exertion due to the terrain. We head back to the car and notice a viewpoint just a few hundred yards further on. On arrival it’s clear that this is the border with Myanmar with a military presence on a hilltop looking over the valley below yet a few enthusiasts are still happy to camp here.

Wat Phrathat Doi Tung........Perhaps it is appropriate that we finish with a religious site. Wat Phrathat Doi Tung lies at the summit of Doi Tung. Approaching along the steep minor road 1390, off to the east of the main temple, its twin gold chedis and ornate viharn glitter in the setting sun. An important attraction, this temple was built in the 10th century with two subsequent restorations in the 13th century by King Mengrai of Chiang Rai and in the 20th century by the revered monk Khru Ba Siwichai. The twin Lanna-style chedis, one of which is believed to contain the left collarbone of Lord Buddha, draws devout Buddhists from all over Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar.

With Katoon wishing to spend a little while here almsgiving, I know it’s not going to be easy now reaching Chiang Saen after dark. At least we manage to make it down the mountain before dusk but there still another half hour before we reach our destination.
Honey Hotel........Google Map. After a late arrival in Chiang Saen it’s not so easy to locate accommodation but instinctively we head for the river front. Here, use of Google map does help to reduce the effort. In a street heading away from the frontage road we locate Nam Phung Place 1 and I recognise it immediately from the Booking.com website. What is a surprise is the room rate as cheap as any on this tour so far and seemingly cheaper than on the website. However conscious of the fact that it’s Christmas I don’t need to compromise on accommodation for a couple of days over Christmas. We’re introduced to the Honey Hotel next door where the accommodation has a higher rating. At 650 baht with American breakfast included I’m more than happy to take it and book for two nights. Perhaps the only issue is the lack of choice of restaurants nearby. The only one is on the banks of the river, its location inevitably affecting the price. But under the circumstances it does reflect somewhat the festive spirit. Back at the room it’s quite late and I’m reluctant to press on with my blog, aware that tomorrow is planned as a rest day. I know that to achieve glorious views over the Mekong River from this hotel is not possible but as I draw the curtain I see what appears to be a pile of rubble. Well that shouldn’t concern me now at least until the morning. Next Page.