Day 11 - Sunday 25 December 2016

Christmas Day at Honey Hotel........I’ve started to string a few restless nights together which is probably not surprising given the exertions I’ve put myself through since being on this tour. Honey Hotel is pleasant enough though but I put last night’s restlessness in part due to the air-conditioning. In other respects I’m really grateful to have a lazy morning which I promised myself for Christmas Day. Breakfast was taken at 10am described as an American breakfast but I would say it was a breakfast and half. As well as sausage and egg there was rice soup included with tea or coffee and fruit juice. After that I just stayed in the room till midday working on my blog without pressure. However sooner or later with new surroundings, the desire to explore I knew would take over which brings me back to that pile of bricks in the back yard.
Chiang Saen........Google Map. Chiang Saen is an ancient city located on the west bank of the Mekong River dating back to the 14th Century. After its foundation in 1328 it flourished as an independent city state and was influential throughout the northern region with its art and culture. It was captured during the 16th Century by the Burmese and sacked in 1803 by King Rama I and abandoned. Resettlement amoung the ruins has only happened in the last 100 years or so. Knowing the history in advance, I expect to find plenty of evidence of the Chiang Sean civilisation here in the town. However I did not expect to find it so soon. Right behind Honey Hotel is the ruin of one of the city temples!
National Museum Chiang Saen........Inevitably when you latch onto something it’s hard to let it go. While the UK is in comparative lockdown here in Thailand it’s a normal day but in terms of this museum run by the Fine Art Department, their closure days are Monday and Tuesday and are still free at the moment so it doesn’t take much working out what I do next.

When I locate the Chiang Saen National Museum I’m expecting it to give me a starting point for tours tomorrow which should to be among the last this year. The museum occupies the ground floor but there are exhibits on a mezzanine floor above. The museum follows the usual pattern but I’m surprised to learn that it collects exhibits from Chaing Rai Province and some adjoining regions which explain why there is no national museum in Chiang Rai. The range of exhibits is not extensive but is certainly relevant. A number of objects from pre-history are represented but settlement as we know it, didn’t begin until the 13th Century. Inevitably there is a large representation of objects relating to the Chiang Saen State and to Buddhism in general. However the interaction between states meant that Chiang Saen was influenced in its art and design and visa versa. Accordingly you will see early influence from Sri Lanka, Lanna, Sukhothai and later that of Ayutthaya and Burma. It was not until the Ratanakosin period that Chiang Saen finally lost its status. The museum also includes a section devoted to the culture of ethnic peoples who have settled in the area over time.
Wat Maha That........ Without much of a plan, I soon realise I’m in the middle of the old city where most of the ruins are located. If I can tick of some of these temples it will take some pressure off tomorrow. Near the museum is Wat Maha That (right). This is a temple without provenance. All that is known is through its architecture. The design is of a mandapa (mondrop) with a pyramid roof is usually associated with the residence of the Buddha. The design is similar to other temples in Chiang Saen but there is a similar structure in Sukhothai. The temple can be dated 15th or 16th Century.
Chiangsaen Gate........Turning left out of the museum, I soon locate the Chiangsaen Gate. Situated on the west side of the city, this gate with its fortifications was built in a double semi-circle. It is assumed it was the main entrance as it is directed towards the other old towns on the plains of the Mae Kok River. The gate, also known as the Pasak Gate was important for the strategic defence of the city.

Wat Pa Sak........Still within walking distance from the museum, just outside the Chiangsaen Gate, Wat Pa Sak is a large temple complex with a number of features that reflect outside influence. The chedi or stupa sits on a square base of similar design to Chedi Ku Khut and Chedi Chiang Yan in Lamphun. The chamber (mandapa or mondrop), has five bell-shaped finials. Other features show Phungam, Chinese, Khmer and Sukhothai influence.

Wat Chedi Luang........Also near the museum is Wat Chedi Luang. It consists of a bell-shaped chedi on an octagonal base and is the largest chedi in Chiang Sean City. According to legend Chedi Luang was built in 1344 by Phaya Saen Phu, King of the Mang Rai Dynasty and contains a piece of the sternum of the Lord Buddha. The chedi was rebuilt in 1515. In May 2014 the chedi was damaged as a result of a 6.3 earthquake. Some 550,000 baht was raised for its repair. Unusually for a ruin the viharn is covered to protect a new seated Buddha image.

Chiang Saen Lake........Moving further afield we head for the Chiang Saen Lake (Nong Bong Kaai). Located about 5 kilometres outside the city to the west, the lake seen at present is believed to be part of Nong Lom Lake mentioned in the chronicles as the site of Nakkhaphan Singhonnawat City. This city became submerged into the lake as a result of an earthquake. Today there is no visible evidence for its existence but instead this is a Ramsar Site. The Ramsar Convention is an international treaty for the conservation and sustainable use of wetlands. A good cause no doubt but I question whether it should be partially funded by foreign nationals instead of local citizens. The fee for foreigners is 200 baht; Thais free. Although I was offered entry at half this, wetlands are not my speciality so I pass it by.

Wat Phra That Chomkitti........Already this is turning into a mini-tour when dear Lord its Christmas Day isn’t it? Katoon, still calling the shots for the afternoon, heads for another temple. Wat Phra That Chomkitti. This temple is located on a hill northwest of the town near the bypass. According to the chronicles the temple it was built to enshrine the Buddha’s hair. The chedi was built later in 1487 by the ruler Muen Chiang Song. The bell-shaped superstructure with stucco decorations was built in the form of a high chamber. A courtyard with boundary wall surrounds the base while a long staircase is located on the eastern side. More modern structures exist today and an access roadway has been built. The temple offers excellent views east across the Mekong River towards Laos.

Celebration?........Finally that’s it for Christmas Day as I write up my notes for the day’s events. Back at the room I break out a bottle of Rioja I’ve been saving up and a slab of Christmas cake. It’s been a strange Christmas Day as expected but I’m glad for an easier day with little demand on my budget. Next Page.