Day 5, 27 October - Nong Khai
Making Plans....... This morning we both overslept so whatever my feelings about the room are, they're irrelivant after the lights are switched off. The issue this morning is that I need time to prepare a visit list for today's excursions then geolocate them by district. Once the list is complete there is immediate disagreement over priorities as the list needs to be reduced to something more manageable. It's no surprise that Nong Khai has more to offer than first appears. The main thing we have agreement on is the direction of travel. We will eventually exit Nong Khai province to the east so we must start today in the west.
As we head off the best thing is to tick the boxes as we go along and keep an eye on the time. With the first visit not expected until midday, we're clearly at a disadvantage.
The first district we arrive at is Tha Bo Katoon point to a Buddhist shrine by the roadside. Tha Bo at least has just one major attraction which we can cover quite easily.
Wat Si Chumphu Ong Tue....... Wat Si Chumphu Ong Tue was formerly known as Wat Kosin before the name was changed. Local people usually call this temple Wat Ong Tue for short after the principal Buddha image Prachao Yai Ong Tue which was built at the same time as a temple. The immense bronze image was cast in the seated Buddha Subduing Mara position measuring 3.30 metres across the lap width and 4.40 metres high. The image is in Lan Chang style similar to Prachao Ong Tue at Wat Ong Tue Maha Vihan in Vientiane over in Laos. A Thai Noi inscription written in Tham letters on front of Phra Wihan of Wat Si Chumphu Ong Tue says that this temple was constructed in 1607 A.D. the period when King Chaiyachetthathirat ruled the Lan Chang Kingdom.
Wat Phra Yuen....... Across to Nam Mong River, a tributary of the Mekong River is a less conspicious temple known as Wat Phra Yuen meaning, 'standing Buddha image'. This image is located nearby. No information has been found for this temple.
Si Chiang Mai....... What happens next is not what I wanted as black clouds roll in and heavy rain ensues. We are heading for another district, Si Chiang Mai which is on the bank of The Mekong River. As we make it along the promenade, there isn't much activity under the conditions but it's well past lunchtime and we rest out the thunderstorm at a restaurant that serves Nam Nung (Vietnamese suausage) which is a local delicacy. Time ticks on and the rain abates. It's time to take a walk and witness activity at last.
Lan Phayanak Viewpoint....... On the bank of the Mekong they are setting up for the Ok Phan Sa celebrations: This weekend is the end of Buddhist Lent which signals the end of the rains. Well, I hope they shout a bit louder. I stop to take photos around the Lan Phayanak Viewpoint.
Wat Aranyabanpot....... We continue west and locate Wat Aranyabanpot. At Phra Sutham Chedi, Wat Aranyabanphot, relics of Buddha are enshrined which also serves as a museum. The chedi was constructed by the Electricity Generating Authority of Thailand as a tribute to Luangpu Rian Woralapho who was greatly respected by local people. The museum contains accumulated possessions of Luangpu Rian Woralapho.
Sangkhom District....... At this point I must be caucious with limited time avalable. Further west along the Mekong River the land increasingly gives over to rain forest in Sangkhom district. Next to the City district, Sangkhom contains the most number of attractions but they are either natural features or remote temples. This is where I must decide on priorities as we've already extended ourselves more than an hour's drive from the city. There is one consolation. The remote area beside the Mekong near to the border with Loei province is where I've been before. That eliminates a couple of important sites. To get more representation I need to visit at least one of the natural attractions and select Huai Thon Ton Bon even though I know it will be lacking in visitors this time of year. I arrive at the lake amidst gorgious scenery but all that is here are the deserted rafts that will open as restuarants in the dry season.
The next attraction is also natural as I extend this trip as far as I dare. It's a waterfall and thankfully not far from the roadside.
Than Thong Waterfall....... Than Thong Waterfall would be much more attractive in the dry season but the rain hasn't deterred some children and young adults from playing in the rapids. The waterfall here is hardly much more than that.
It's time to turn the car around and see what else we can find on the way back.
Chedi Phiphitthaphan Phra Rat Nirot Rangsi....... Chedi Phiphitthaphan Phra Rat Nirot Rangsi (Thet Thet Rangsi) is a chedi in the large complex of Wat Hin Mak Peng. It is dedicated to Ajahn Thet Thesarangsi, one of the famous Ajahn Mun's disciples. This chedi has a distinct lotus-bud shape. The chedi contains an accumulation of Ajahn Thet Thesarangsi's possessions. There is something morbid about this chedi. I am aware that relics (remains) of the Buddha were distributed far and wide and the tradition spread through his deciples. Here in the chedi is enshrined partial remains of famous monks from Isan and beyond. Fragments are displayed here in a showcase.
Wat Hin Mak Peng....... Wat Hin Mak Peng is located at Ban Thai Charoen, Phra Phutthabat subdistrict The words 'Hin Mak Peng' was the name given to the three large boulders on the Mekong banks by the locals. When viewed from the right angle, the 'Teng' and 'Peng Yoi' stones resemble a set of scales. The word 'Mak Peng' is a local dialect classifier for a fruit or similar spherical object. Later on, Luang Pu Tesk Tesrangsi, a pupil of Phra Achan Sao and Phra Achan Man, two highly respected Buddhist teachers, designated the area as a site for Dharma practice for monks, nuns, and pious, merit-seeking laypeople. The surrounding area is clean, uncluttered, well-shaded and serene, and the edge of the temple alongside the Mekong offers resplendent views of the river. Wat Hin Mak Peng was declared a model development temple in 1980.
No Pots Today....... There is one more attraction we have time to visit but I have my doubts there will be anything to see. I see the map icon shows a museum and if so, it won't be open this late. Katoon is set on investigating but as I expected we draw a blank. There is a small building here with pottery lining the boundary fence. Is this one of the ancient dig sites I wonder. Well, there's no futher time to investigate as dusk falls.
Posh but Mai Sabai (not well)....... Back in the city at least we have our accommodation booked. With the late arrival we just don't have time for another restaurant meal and collect something from 7 Eleven to eat in the room. I arrive at Sabai Poshtel with greater expectation than when I arrived at my accommodation last night. Well, I'm soon back down to earth. Every thing about Sabai Poshtel suggests it is posh including the room. But posh is not neccessary. I just want a counter or table and a chair to sit on so I can work on my computer. I am used to improvising but quite honestly, sitting on a poufe with my laptop on the edge of the bed is evidence that whoever designed these rooms has lost his/her marbles! Nevertheless, I managed somehow to bring my notes up to date leaving the morning free.
Next Page.
Making Plans....... This morning we both overslept so whatever my feelings about the room are, they're irrelivant after the lights are switched off. The issue this morning is that I need time to prepare a visit list for today's excursions then geolocate them by district. Once the list is complete there is immediate disagreement over priorities as the list needs to be reduced to something more manageable. It's no surprise that Nong Khai has more to offer than first appears. The main thing we have agreement on is the direction of travel. We will eventually exit Nong Khai province to the east so we must start today in the west.
As we head off the best thing is to tick the boxes as we go along and keep an eye on the time. With the first visit not expected until midday, we're clearly at a disadvantage.
The first district we arrive at is Tha Bo Katoon point to a Buddhist shrine by the roadside. Tha Bo at least has just one major attraction which we can cover quite easily.
Wat Si Chumphu Ong Tue....... Wat Si Chumphu Ong Tue was formerly known as Wat Kosin before the name was changed. Local people usually call this temple Wat Ong Tue for short after the principal Buddha image Prachao Yai Ong Tue which was built at the same time as a temple. The immense bronze image was cast in the seated Buddha Subduing Mara position measuring 3.30 metres across the lap width and 4.40 metres high. The image is in Lan Chang style similar to Prachao Ong Tue at Wat Ong Tue Maha Vihan in Vientiane over in Laos. A Thai Noi inscription written in Tham letters on front of Phra Wihan of Wat Si Chumphu Ong Tue says that this temple was constructed in 1607 A.D. the period when King Chaiyachetthathirat ruled the Lan Chang Kingdom.
Wat Phra Yuen....... Across to Nam Mong River, a tributary of the Mekong River is a less conspicious temple known as Wat Phra Yuen meaning, 'standing Buddha image'. This image is located nearby. No information has been found for this temple.
Si Chiang Mai....... What happens next is not what I wanted as black clouds roll in and heavy rain ensues. We are heading for another district, Si Chiang Mai which is on the bank of The Mekong River. As we make it along the promenade, there isn't much activity under the conditions but it's well past lunchtime and we rest out the thunderstorm at a restaurant that serves Nam Nung (Vietnamese suausage) which is a local delicacy. Time ticks on and the rain abates. It's time to take a walk and witness activity at last.
Lan Phayanak Viewpoint....... On the bank of the Mekong they are setting up for the Ok Phan Sa celebrations: This weekend is the end of Buddhist Lent which signals the end of the rains. Well, I hope they shout a bit louder. I stop to take photos around the Lan Phayanak Viewpoint.
Wat Aranyabanpot....... We continue west and locate Wat Aranyabanpot. At Phra Sutham Chedi, Wat Aranyabanphot, relics of Buddha are enshrined which also serves as a museum. The chedi was constructed by the Electricity Generating Authority of Thailand as a tribute to Luangpu Rian Woralapho who was greatly respected by local people. The museum contains accumulated possessions of Luangpu Rian Woralapho.
Sangkhom District....... At this point I must be caucious with limited time avalable. Further west along the Mekong River the land increasingly gives over to rain forest in Sangkhom district. Next to the City district, Sangkhom contains the most number of attractions but they are either natural features or remote temples. This is where I must decide on priorities as we've already extended ourselves more than an hour's drive from the city. There is one consolation. The remote area beside the Mekong near to the border with Loei province is where I've been before. That eliminates a couple of important sites. To get more representation I need to visit at least one of the natural attractions and select Huai Thon Ton Bon even though I know it will be lacking in visitors this time of year. I arrive at the lake amidst gorgious scenery but all that is here are the deserted rafts that will open as restuarants in the dry season.
The next attraction is also natural as I extend this trip as far as I dare. It's a waterfall and thankfully not far from the roadside.
Than Thong Waterfall....... Than Thong Waterfall would be much more attractive in the dry season but the rain hasn't deterred some children and young adults from playing in the rapids. The waterfall here is hardly much more than that.
It's time to turn the car around and see what else we can find on the way back.
Chedi Phiphitthaphan Phra Rat Nirot Rangsi....... Chedi Phiphitthaphan Phra Rat Nirot Rangsi (Thet Thet Rangsi) is a chedi in the large complex of Wat Hin Mak Peng. It is dedicated to Ajahn Thet Thesarangsi, one of the famous Ajahn Mun's disciples. This chedi has a distinct lotus-bud shape. The chedi contains an accumulation of Ajahn Thet Thesarangsi's possessions. There is something morbid about this chedi. I am aware that relics (remains) of the Buddha were distributed far and wide and the tradition spread through his deciples. Here in the chedi is enshrined partial remains of famous monks from Isan and beyond. Fragments are displayed here in a showcase.
Wat Hin Mak Peng....... Wat Hin Mak Peng is located at Ban Thai Charoen, Phra Phutthabat subdistrict The words 'Hin Mak Peng' was the name given to the three large boulders on the Mekong banks by the locals. When viewed from the right angle, the 'Teng' and 'Peng Yoi' stones resemble a set of scales. The word 'Mak Peng' is a local dialect classifier for a fruit or similar spherical object. Later on, Luang Pu Tesk Tesrangsi, a pupil of Phra Achan Sao and Phra Achan Man, two highly respected Buddhist teachers, designated the area as a site for Dharma practice for monks, nuns, and pious, merit-seeking laypeople. The surrounding area is clean, uncluttered, well-shaded and serene, and the edge of the temple alongside the Mekong offers resplendent views of the river. Wat Hin Mak Peng was declared a model development temple in 1980.
No Pots Today....... There is one more attraction we have time to visit but I have my doubts there will be anything to see. I see the map icon shows a museum and if so, it won't be open this late. Katoon is set on investigating but as I expected we draw a blank. There is a small building here with pottery lining the boundary fence. Is this one of the ancient dig sites I wonder. Well, there's no futher time to investigate as dusk falls.
Posh but Mai Sabai (not well)....... Back in the city at least we have our accommodation booked. With the late arrival we just don't have time for another restaurant meal and collect something from 7 Eleven to eat in the room. I arrive at Sabai Poshtel with greater expectation than when I arrived at my accommodation last night. Well, I'm soon back down to earth. Every thing about Sabai Poshtel suggests it is posh including the room. But posh is not neccessary. I just want a counter or table and a chair to sit on so I can work on my computer. I am used to improvising but quite honestly, sitting on a poufe with my laptop on the edge of the bed is evidence that whoever designed these rooms has lost his/her marbles! Nevertheless, I managed somehow to bring my notes up to date leaving the morning free.
Next Page.
Nong Khai Province
Haw Phra Luang Pho Thong In,
Mueang Nong Khai District
Wat Si Chumphu Ong Tue, Nam Nong,
Tha Bo District
Wat Phra Yuen, Kong Nang, Tha Bo District
Lan Phayanak Viewpoint, Phan Phrao,
Si Chiang Mai District
Wat Aranyabanpot, Ban Mo,
Si Chiang Mai District
Huai Thon Tan Bon, Dan Si Suk,
Pho Tak District
Pho Tak Rafts, Huai Thon Tan Bon, Dan Si Suk, Pho Tak District
Than Thong Waterfall, Pha Tang,
Sangkhom District
Mekong River,
Sangkhom and Si Chiang Mai Districts
Chedi Phiphitthaphan Phra Rat Nirot Rangsi, Phra Phutthabat, Si Chiang Mai District
Wat Hin Mak Peng, Phra Phutthabat,
Si Chiang Mai District
Ban Wan Museum, Tha Bo District