Day 10, 1 November - Bangkok
Convenient....... It's the start of a new month but could this be my last morning in Isan having now visited every province? There is no breakfast at Takanta Place but there is coffee and toast in the kitchen which has a few tables. This is quite convenient; we can simply pop to 7 Eleven next door to get warmed food and use up what we carry around.
Mini Tour....... Today we will be heading back to Bangkok which is an eight-hour drive excluding stops. It's not usual for us to make such a long journey in one day but I've completed my objectives for this tour as best I can. However, despite the hard day for Katoon, incredibly she wants to look around the city first. I have to admit despite previous visits to this province, we haven't concentrated on the city itself and there is still work to do elsewhere. I had it in mind to mark it for a revisit. So now it looks like I'm having a mini tour of Udon Thani.
Udon Thani City Museum....... Visiting museums is always worthwhile as they provide quality information on history and culture in the area they represent. Where there is a national museum, you can expect a wealth of information and exhibits relating to the region, but city museums can vary according to the size of the community: Some are hardly worth the effort. The Udon Thani City Museum is housed in a colonial style building dating from the reign of King Rama VI, 100 years ago and on arrival here, you immediately witness the amount of TLC that this building has recently received. Next to the building is a modern structure which functions as a reception centre and registration point. The fact that you have to leave some ID at reception and get an electronic pass gives you some idea of how organised this museum is.
Once in the colonial building you are introduced to the huge amount of thought and work that has been put into it, both to retain is character and to create a state-of-the-art viewing experience. In fact, work here is still ongoing with not all features in use such the projectors while in some areas they are waiting for more exhibits.
The route through the museum takes you first to the geological timeline that has shaped the Korat Plateau today and the evolution of living things. Next there is a section on Ban Chiang which is a UNESCO archaeological site located in the province. Thereafter, there is no recorded history until recent times. The province used to be part of Lang Xang ruled from Luang Prabang in Laos. There were only villages then occupied by Thai Phuan people. The first settlements were created by the Chinese who wished for political independence. This caused friction with Bangkok and in the mid 19th Century, King Rama IV sent an army to the region to assert authority. In the process, an army camp was set up where modern Udon Thani is located.
The first governor was appointed in the reign of King Rama V, in the late 1800's. During this time the French occupied Vietnam and considered Laos as part of its territory too. Large parts of Laos had been under the control of Siamese kings but conflict with the France boiled over resulting in lands to the east of the Mekong River ceded to the French in 1893. This of course divided the Thai Phuan community that had suffered first at the hands of the Chinese and now the French. The result was mass exodus of people into Siamese lands. The Treaty of 1904 resulted in more land being ceded to France and tensions continued.
During WW2 Thailand submitted to the Japanese and again there was turmoil in the region as Thailand was again embroiled in a border war. The history books relate that it was here the first clashes of the Royal Thai Airforce took place.
After the war ended the French strove to assert its authority in Vietnam and Laos once more but it was too late. Nationalism under Ho Chi Minh had become deep routed. With the pro-western government in Vietnam in disarray the USA entered the war with the Communists in 1961. In this sad chapter in history, Thailand, wary of communism, allowed USA to create land and sea bases on its territory. As Udon Thani was a convenient flying distance from Vietnam, the US Air Force set up a base here. The main logistical problem was its distance from a seaport. It was during this time that the Americans built the Mittraphap (Friendship) Highway, the first all-weather dual-carriageway in Thailand. This road which I've used many times opened up the community in Udon Thani and the city has seen rapid growth ever since becoming a major transport and commercial hub and attracting a new breed of people.
It's clear that Udon Thani has witnesses great turmoil in its relatively short existence attracting immigrants from China, Loas, Vietnam and the West. Today the folk live in harmony with the land, rich in natural resources and I sincerely hope it stays that way. This amazing insight into Udon Thani has taken around an hour but Katoon still hasn't finished.
Udon Thani City Pillar Shrine....... The pillar shrine (san lak mueang) in Udon Thani is located in the Tung Sri Mueang field in middle of the city. The shrine was established in 1999. It is believed that the city's guardian deity resides in the shrine itself. Built in the contemporary Isan style of architecture, the compound also houses the statue of the deity Wetsuwan, which is the province's guardian deity (depicted in the provincial seal). Along with the city pillar, considered the heart of the city, the shrine is highly respected by the townspeople.
As mentioned earlier the city was only created 150 years ago so has no long history. Hopefully the shrine will offer good luck to compensate for the city's chaotic history.
It's now 11.30am and you can imagine what time we would arrive in Bangkok if we started now but we haven't finished yet.
Wat Matchimawat....... During the reign of King Rama V, founder of Udon Thani Krommaluang Prachaksinlapakhom commanded the construction of a new temple to replace Wat Non Mak Khaeng, an old, deserted temple. The new temple was named Wat Matchimawat. Within its Wihan, or ordination hall, there is a white stone Buddha image protected by carved Nagas (mythic sea serpents), widely known as Luangpho Nak. The statue is highly respected by the locals of Udon Thani. This temple is located in Tambon MakKhaeng, Amphoe Mueang. Now that must be it except?
Udon Thani Railway Station....... As mentioned earlier, the city has become a regional transport hub with its own airport. It is also on the State Railway Northeastern Line which links Loas with Bangkok. Arriving at the station at midday is unlikely to result in railway traffic although a local train has just departed for Nong Khai. It won't return for another hour and a half. However, surprisingly there is one locomotive at work in the freight yard. I can hardly see it behind a mass of freight wagons but finally identify it.
Back to Base....... At midday we now have to make some progress. I estimate we will arrive in Bangkok at around 9.00pm. Katoon still feels comfortable with this and six provinces later we arrive within my estimated time after collecting dinner on the way.
Next Page.
Convenient....... It's the start of a new month but could this be my last morning in Isan having now visited every province? There is no breakfast at Takanta Place but there is coffee and toast in the kitchen which has a few tables. This is quite convenient; we can simply pop to 7 Eleven next door to get warmed food and use up what we carry around.
Mini Tour....... Today we will be heading back to Bangkok which is an eight-hour drive excluding stops. It's not usual for us to make such a long journey in one day but I've completed my objectives for this tour as best I can. However, despite the hard day for Katoon, incredibly she wants to look around the city first. I have to admit despite previous visits to this province, we haven't concentrated on the city itself and there is still work to do elsewhere. I had it in mind to mark it for a revisit. So now it looks like I'm having a mini tour of Udon Thani.
Udon Thani City Museum....... Visiting museums is always worthwhile as they provide quality information on history and culture in the area they represent. Where there is a national museum, you can expect a wealth of information and exhibits relating to the region, but city museums can vary according to the size of the community: Some are hardly worth the effort. The Udon Thani City Museum is housed in a colonial style building dating from the reign of King Rama VI, 100 years ago and on arrival here, you immediately witness the amount of TLC that this building has recently received. Next to the building is a modern structure which functions as a reception centre and registration point. The fact that you have to leave some ID at reception and get an electronic pass gives you some idea of how organised this museum is.
Once in the colonial building you are introduced to the huge amount of thought and work that has been put into it, both to retain is character and to create a state-of-the-art viewing experience. In fact, work here is still ongoing with not all features in use such the projectors while in some areas they are waiting for more exhibits.
The route through the museum takes you first to the geological timeline that has shaped the Korat Plateau today and the evolution of living things. Next there is a section on Ban Chiang which is a UNESCO archaeological site located in the province. Thereafter, there is no recorded history until recent times. The province used to be part of Lang Xang ruled from Luang Prabang in Laos. There were only villages then occupied by Thai Phuan people. The first settlements were created by the Chinese who wished for political independence. This caused friction with Bangkok and in the mid 19th Century, King Rama IV sent an army to the region to assert authority. In the process, an army camp was set up where modern Udon Thani is located.
The first governor was appointed in the reign of King Rama V, in the late 1800's. During this time the French occupied Vietnam and considered Laos as part of its territory too. Large parts of Laos had been under the control of Siamese kings but conflict with the France boiled over resulting in lands to the east of the Mekong River ceded to the French in 1893. This of course divided the Thai Phuan community that had suffered first at the hands of the Chinese and now the French. The result was mass exodus of people into Siamese lands. The Treaty of 1904 resulted in more land being ceded to France and tensions continued.
During WW2 Thailand submitted to the Japanese and again there was turmoil in the region as Thailand was again embroiled in a border war. The history books relate that it was here the first clashes of the Royal Thai Airforce took place.
After the war ended the French strove to assert its authority in Vietnam and Laos once more but it was too late. Nationalism under Ho Chi Minh had become deep routed. With the pro-western government in Vietnam in disarray the USA entered the war with the Communists in 1961. In this sad chapter in history, Thailand, wary of communism, allowed USA to create land and sea bases on its territory. As Udon Thani was a convenient flying distance from Vietnam, the US Air Force set up a base here. The main logistical problem was its distance from a seaport. It was during this time that the Americans built the Mittraphap (Friendship) Highway, the first all-weather dual-carriageway in Thailand. This road which I've used many times opened up the community in Udon Thani and the city has seen rapid growth ever since becoming a major transport and commercial hub and attracting a new breed of people.
It's clear that Udon Thani has witnesses great turmoil in its relatively short existence attracting immigrants from China, Loas, Vietnam and the West. Today the folk live in harmony with the land, rich in natural resources and I sincerely hope it stays that way. This amazing insight into Udon Thani has taken around an hour but Katoon still hasn't finished.
Udon Thani City Pillar Shrine....... The pillar shrine (san lak mueang) in Udon Thani is located in the Tung Sri Mueang field in middle of the city. The shrine was established in 1999. It is believed that the city's guardian deity resides in the shrine itself. Built in the contemporary Isan style of architecture, the compound also houses the statue of the deity Wetsuwan, which is the province's guardian deity (depicted in the provincial seal). Along with the city pillar, considered the heart of the city, the shrine is highly respected by the townspeople.
As mentioned earlier the city was only created 150 years ago so has no long history. Hopefully the shrine will offer good luck to compensate for the city's chaotic history.
It's now 11.30am and you can imagine what time we would arrive in Bangkok if we started now but we haven't finished yet.
Wat Matchimawat....... During the reign of King Rama V, founder of Udon Thani Krommaluang Prachaksinlapakhom commanded the construction of a new temple to replace Wat Non Mak Khaeng, an old, deserted temple. The new temple was named Wat Matchimawat. Within its Wihan, or ordination hall, there is a white stone Buddha image protected by carved Nagas (mythic sea serpents), widely known as Luangpho Nak. The statue is highly respected by the locals of Udon Thani. This temple is located in Tambon MakKhaeng, Amphoe Mueang. Now that must be it except?
Udon Thani Railway Station....... As mentioned earlier, the city has become a regional transport hub with its own airport. It is also on the State Railway Northeastern Line which links Loas with Bangkok. Arriving at the station at midday is unlikely to result in railway traffic although a local train has just departed for Nong Khai. It won't return for another hour and a half. However, surprisingly there is one locomotive at work in the freight yard. I can hardly see it behind a mass of freight wagons but finally identify it.
Back to Base....... At midday we now have to make some progress. I estimate we will arrive in Bangkok at around 9.00pm. Katoon still feels comfortable with this and six provinces later we arrive within my estimated time after collecting dinner on the way.
Next Page.
Udon Thani Province
Udon Thani City Museum,
Nai Mueang Udon Thani
Udon Thani City Pillar Shrine,
Nai Mueang Udon Thani
Wat Matchimawat, Nai Mueang Udon Thani
Udon Thani Railway Station,
Nai Mueang Udon Thani
Nakhon Ratchasima Province
The Mittraphap Highway at Sunset,
Sikhio District