Day 4, 26 October - Nong Khai
Out of the Blocks....... We both woke earlier this morning and that allows for a better start today; in fact, well before 10.00am. There are still a number of places I wish to visit before I leave Maha Sarakham to declare reasonable coverage. We start in the city itself.
Wat Mahachai....... Maha Sarakham City is not known for its iconic temples, but Wat Mahachai is the closest, as it is referred to as a Royal Temple. However, this does not imply a direct connection with the Royal Family, but it does derive its name from the first governor, of the province, Thao Mahachai. In terms of its attraction well, we're the only ones here.
Maha Sarakham City Pillar Shrine....... Maha Sarakham City Pillar Shrine is located in front of Lak Mueang Maha Sarakham School. This shrine was built in 1865 by Thao Mahachai, the first governor of Maha Sarakham. Thao Mahachai established the City after moving from nearby Roi Et, another province in the Northeast. The city pillar shrine is a sacred icon and heart of the town, where locals come to pay their respect to the city.
Maha Sarakham City Museum....... As far as city museums go, Maha Sarakham has no big offering. The city as such has only existed in its present form in the last 150 years. What you will find here is a collection of photographs on the wall of bygone days and of early administrators. A few personal and agricultural items are also on display. Such is the support for this museum, it is staffed only by the keyholder.
Unfortunately, the lack of history in the city itself is somewhat deflating but perhaps the next location will prove more exciting as Katoon goes dinosaur hunting.
Mahasarakham University Department of Paleontology....... Mahasarakham University is Located some 10 kilometres northwest of the city. The university is a town in itself, it's that big. In fact, it has its own bus service to get around the campus. The reason we arrive here is to visit the paleontology research facility which although small contains actual dinosaur fossils as well as fossils from other epochs. It is interesting to chat a while with the curator and recall some of the pre-historic sites we've visited. From here, there is one more location on our way north which also has some age.
Wat Phuttha Mongkhon....... At Wat Phuttha Mongkhon in Tambon Kanthanrat is housed the Phra Yuen Mongkhon Buddha image, a sacred statue carved from red sandstone. The image dates back to the Dvaravati period over 1,000 years ago. The story relates that after a long period of drought the image was constructed to call for rain. Since it was built, the rains have fallen ever since. The image is a male figure produced by men but there was a second image produced at the same time.
Wat Suwannawas....... Wat Suwannawas, a short distance north of Wat Phuttha Mongkhon contains the image, Phra Phuttha Ming Mueang. This is a female image said to be produced by women. This image as well as Phra Yuen Mongkon was built in fine laterite that was only used before the Sukhothai era.
Decision....... Now we must leave Maha Sarakham and head north. However, I have a decision to make. I had hoped to head for the furthest point on this tour, but it is in an awkward direction, and it will not be possible to reach it before dark. I therefore choose a safer bet and head for Nong Khai which is also on my visit list.
After lunch beside Hwy 12, we head for Khon Kaen, around the ring road and on towards Udon Thani. A direct run would put us in Nong Khai at 5.00am but my partner has other ideas and south of Udon Thani she goes searching for lotus flowers.
Nong Han Kumphawapi....... Han Kumphawapi is a lake north of the town of Kumphawapi, Kumphawapi district, Udon Thani Province. The lake is shallow, mostly not exceeding a depth of one metre. The open water area of 1.7 km2 is surrounded by a wetland covering 4.1 km2, including paddy fields. In 2001 the lake was proposed as a wetland of international importance by the Thai government.
When we arrive at the water's edge there are machines used to remove vegetation that clogs the lake so keeping it navigable. The massive expanse of water reminds me of Tale Noi in Phattalung. However, we havne't arrived yet at the main viewing point which is some 10-15 minutes away involving driving around the perimetre of Han Kumphawapi. The drive puts into perspective how vast this lake is. When we reach the the viewpoint there is nothing to see; the lake here is so clogged up with vegetation. This area has viewing towers for observing wildlife.
This detour has caused a number of issues. Firstly there are no beautiful lotus blooms to see; they will appear in January. Secondly, we have taken up the slack that I needed to arrive in Nong Khai at a reasonable time, remembering that I changed the destination to make things easier. Lastly Udon Thani is not on my visit list. There is more than enough to do in other provinces.
At this point we are still an hour away from our destination and frustration is creeping in. It will be dark in Nong Khai while we search around for accommodation.
No Room at the Inn....... When we arrive in Nong Khai my fears are realised. Nong Khai has expanded rapidly through its connections to Laos via the Friendship Bridge. It's looking a lot busier than when I was last here. As we start our search for accommodation, we are faced with two obstacles, price and availability. Isan is not generally known for its grand tourist destinations, but Nong Khai does an excellent job of bucking this trend. We soon realise that if we need accommodation in the town near the Mekong River, we will have to pay for it. Several enquiries later we find bungalow style accommodation away from the downtown area. With that booked over the phone we can at least find a meal in town and stock up for breakfast tomorrow.
Anything will do....... When we arrive at PP Alis, while we've secured a room on budget, this 600-baht room is 400 baht in most other parts of Isan. While there's no obvious sign of discomfort all I can say is that we've been in worse.
My intention now is to stay in Nong Khai for at least another night, so I ask Katoon to call around now we have time on our side. She comes up with a room close to the river and although it's over budget there is full American breakfast so now let's just wind things down a peg.
Next Page.
Out of the Blocks....... We both woke earlier this morning and that allows for a better start today; in fact, well before 10.00am. There are still a number of places I wish to visit before I leave Maha Sarakham to declare reasonable coverage. We start in the city itself.
Wat Mahachai....... Maha Sarakham City is not known for its iconic temples, but Wat Mahachai is the closest, as it is referred to as a Royal Temple. However, this does not imply a direct connection with the Royal Family, but it does derive its name from the first governor, of the province, Thao Mahachai. In terms of its attraction well, we're the only ones here.
Maha Sarakham City Pillar Shrine....... Maha Sarakham City Pillar Shrine is located in front of Lak Mueang Maha Sarakham School. This shrine was built in 1865 by Thao Mahachai, the first governor of Maha Sarakham. Thao Mahachai established the City after moving from nearby Roi Et, another province in the Northeast. The city pillar shrine is a sacred icon and heart of the town, where locals come to pay their respect to the city.
Maha Sarakham City Museum....... As far as city museums go, Maha Sarakham has no big offering. The city as such has only existed in its present form in the last 150 years. What you will find here is a collection of photographs on the wall of bygone days and of early administrators. A few personal and agricultural items are also on display. Such is the support for this museum, it is staffed only by the keyholder.
Unfortunately, the lack of history in the city itself is somewhat deflating but perhaps the next location will prove more exciting as Katoon goes dinosaur hunting.
Mahasarakham University Department of Paleontology....... Mahasarakham University is Located some 10 kilometres northwest of the city. The university is a town in itself, it's that big. In fact, it has its own bus service to get around the campus. The reason we arrive here is to visit the paleontology research facility which although small contains actual dinosaur fossils as well as fossils from other epochs. It is interesting to chat a while with the curator and recall some of the pre-historic sites we've visited. From here, there is one more location on our way north which also has some age.
Wat Phuttha Mongkhon....... At Wat Phuttha Mongkhon in Tambon Kanthanrat is housed the Phra Yuen Mongkhon Buddha image, a sacred statue carved from red sandstone. The image dates back to the Dvaravati period over 1,000 years ago. The story relates that after a long period of drought the image was constructed to call for rain. Since it was built, the rains have fallen ever since. The image is a male figure produced by men but there was a second image produced at the same time.
Wat Suwannawas....... Wat Suwannawas, a short distance north of Wat Phuttha Mongkhon contains the image, Phra Phuttha Ming Mueang. This is a female image said to be produced by women. This image as well as Phra Yuen Mongkon was built in fine laterite that was only used before the Sukhothai era.
Decision....... Now we must leave Maha Sarakham and head north. However, I have a decision to make. I had hoped to head for the furthest point on this tour, but it is in an awkward direction, and it will not be possible to reach it before dark. I therefore choose a safer bet and head for Nong Khai which is also on my visit list.
After lunch beside Hwy 12, we head for Khon Kaen, around the ring road and on towards Udon Thani. A direct run would put us in Nong Khai at 5.00am but my partner has other ideas and south of Udon Thani she goes searching for lotus flowers.
Nong Han Kumphawapi....... Han Kumphawapi is a lake north of the town of Kumphawapi, Kumphawapi district, Udon Thani Province. The lake is shallow, mostly not exceeding a depth of one metre. The open water area of 1.7 km2 is surrounded by a wetland covering 4.1 km2, including paddy fields. In 2001 the lake was proposed as a wetland of international importance by the Thai government.
When we arrive at the water's edge there are machines used to remove vegetation that clogs the lake so keeping it navigable. The massive expanse of water reminds me of Tale Noi in Phattalung. However, we havne't arrived yet at the main viewing point which is some 10-15 minutes away involving driving around the perimetre of Han Kumphawapi. The drive puts into perspective how vast this lake is. When we reach the the viewpoint there is nothing to see; the lake here is so clogged up with vegetation. This area has viewing towers for observing wildlife.
This detour has caused a number of issues. Firstly there are no beautiful lotus blooms to see; they will appear in January. Secondly, we have taken up the slack that I needed to arrive in Nong Khai at a reasonable time, remembering that I changed the destination to make things easier. Lastly Udon Thani is not on my visit list. There is more than enough to do in other provinces.
At this point we are still an hour away from our destination and frustration is creeping in. It will be dark in Nong Khai while we search around for accommodation.
No Room at the Inn....... When we arrive in Nong Khai my fears are realised. Nong Khai has expanded rapidly through its connections to Laos via the Friendship Bridge. It's looking a lot busier than when I was last here. As we start our search for accommodation, we are faced with two obstacles, price and availability. Isan is not generally known for its grand tourist destinations, but Nong Khai does an excellent job of bucking this trend. We soon realise that if we need accommodation in the town near the Mekong River, we will have to pay for it. Several enquiries later we find bungalow style accommodation away from the downtown area. With that booked over the phone we can at least find a meal in town and stock up for breakfast tomorrow.
Anything will do....... When we arrive at PP Alis, while we've secured a room on budget, this 600-baht room is 400 baht in most other parts of Isan. While there's no obvious sign of discomfort all I can say is that we've been in worse.
My intention now is to stay in Nong Khai for at least another night, so I ask Katoon to call around now we have time on our side. She comes up with a room close to the river and although it's over budget there is full American breakfast so now let's just wind things down a peg.
Next Page.
Maha Sarakham Province
Wat Mahachai, Mueang Maha Sarakham
City Pillar Shrine, Mueang Maha Sarakham
Maha Sarakham City Museum,
Mueang Maha Sarakham
Mahasarakham University Department of Paleontology, Kham Riang,
Kantharawichai District
Wat Phuttha Mongkhon, Khok Phra, Kantharawichai District
Wat Suwannawas, Khok Phra,
Kantharawichai District
Udon Thani Province
Nong Han Kumphawapi,
Kumphawapi District