Day 2, 24 October - Phayakkhaphum Phisai
Tour Underway....... Today we move deeper into Isan and into new territory. After our customary breakfast snacks we're away at a reasonable 10.00am. We have about a 4-hour run today but I factored in a couple of site visits on the way. We don't quite know how the day will pan out, so we haven't booked accommodation, just made a note of possible options. This is just as well as I immediately get sidetracked.
Pak Chong Railway Station....... Visits to Pak Chong Railway Station can we hit and miss as regards what I can record there. I had intended to give it a miss believing there would be not much to see as the station only serves the Northeastern Line. But the tracks are a magnet for me, and I find myself back again. Soon after I arrive, a service from Surin enter the station and not soon after a freight locomotive arrives to pick up some container wagons. The engine is still running so I believe in will depart soon. However, time ticks on and I'm informed of a service soon to arrive from Bangkok for Ubon Ratchathani. I decide to wait and when that arrives to collect its passengers, I see the token is passed to the freight locomotive driver which tells me that this train will depart soon in the opposite direction. Again, I wait, and soon an hour as passed before things settle down again at this station after the freight train departs. At 11.00am we're finally on our way departing Pak Chong.
Mittraphap Highway....... We must make progress now along the Mittraphap Highway. Reaching Nakhon Ratchasima, we head around the bypass and continue towards Khon Khen. Nakhon Ratchasima is a huge province where I've spent several trips here exploring. Two sites of historic importance are on the menu today but first let's check out another menu at a roadside restaurant. Now for some local history.
Thung Samrit Memorial....... Thung Samrit Memorial in Phimai district is a wide field and battleground between the Khorat people and Laotian soldiers during the reign of King Rama III. A shrine was constructed by villagers in 1988 to pay homage to the fighters. A battle scene is represented on the memorial in the form of models of the fighters who are remembered here. On the opposite side of the Mittrephap Road is another historic site or more accurately, a pre-historic one.
Ban Prasat Archaeological Site....... Ban Prasat Archaeological Site hit the news in Thailand some time ago and I added it to my wish list. Now I can find out more. The site is an outdoor museum located in Non Sung District. The site is believed to have been an agricultural-ceramic society 3,000 years ago in prehistoric times. It is the second archaeological site in Thailand to be set up as an outdoor museum, after Ban Chiang 12 in Udon Thani.
The site offers a glimpse into the community that lived there from prehistoric times to the present day. The community's culture and beliefs are evident from the discoveries of human skeletons and pottery pieces from various levels. The site also provides evidence of human evolution from the Bronze Age through the Iron Age to the Dvaravati and Khmer traditions of the more modern age.
As the result of archaeological digs in 1991, three pits were opened, and some human skeletons and associated pottery was unearthed. The small museum beside dig site 1 is free to enter. I manage to visit the 2 other dig sites noting that dig site 3 has more burials than found at site 2.
Prasat Nang Ram....... Just when I thought I'd finished in Nakhon Ratchasima province, here at the excavation site is a list of other important ancient sites in the area and it appears I've missed one out from previous visits.
Prasat Nang Ram is located in Nang Ram Subdistrict of Phra Tai District. Phrasat Nang Ram sanctuary was built in the 13th century in Khmer Bayonne Art style. It was built by Jayavaraman VII, a prolific builder in the Khmer Kingdom. It was an Arokayasala (a type of hospital) practicing Mahayana Buddhism. It faces east and consists of a single main prasat built in laterite and sandstone. A bannalai (library) is located to the southeast of the main prasat. These buildings are enclosed by a boundary wall with the main porch situated on the east wall. To the northeast of the main prasat outside the wall is a baray (pond).
Prasat Nang Ram was first registered as an ancient monument in the Royal Gazette on 27 September 1936 and revised in the Royal Gazette on 30 June 1981.
So far, most of the day has been spent in Nakhon Ratchasima province and incidental to the main objective of this tour. However, finally we enter Maha Sarakham province, a province that is hardly on anyone's visit list. That included me as I passed through here a couple of times without considering there was anything worthwhile to record. How wrong I was, as further research resulted in a list of attractions, I will not leave without visiting. But first we have enough time to head for one which is not on that list.
Phrathat In Plaeng....... Prathat In Plaeng in Phayakkhaphum Phisai District, was built more than thirty years ago. It was started by Luang Por Saman Ophaso who brought together the villagers to build the Phra That. Its design inspiration was from Phra That Phanom. From the decoration on top, it resembles the Phra That Na Dun Cloister and landscaping was made in Khmer style, with wells being built in all four directions of the Phra That while the pattern of the reliefs and stucco are used in Balinese art. All the construction was done by craftsmen in the area.
Phayakkhaphum Phisai....... With little daylight left, there's little more we can do but find accommodation. Phayakkhaphum Phisai not far away is a relatively small provincial town and from my experience there could be issues in finding suitable accommodation. In the morning I had anticipated that we might be struggling to make the provincial capital today. I can now put my Plan B into operation. The only suitable option seems to be Lullaby Residence. When we check it out it ticks many of the boxes and we have no hesitation in paying 490 baht. For this price there must be limitations, but these turn out to be minor. There is no lift, but we have a room on the ground floor. The rooms are spacious and relatively modern although the shower area in the bathroom is a bit grubby, the tiles stained with age and the shower head botched repaired instead of being replaced. The bed could be larger for the size of the room. For the standard of accommodation, you would not expect a mini bar plus a selection of personal items for sale including condoms. The residence is in a quiet street but hey, there is a restaurant and small shop 200 metres away. My budget will be well under control here. The location in the town is also favorable.
I can now start on my attractions list for tomorrow working north towards Maha Sarakham City. It's going to require a full day. It's so far so good now.
Next Page.
Tour Underway....... Today we move deeper into Isan and into new territory. After our customary breakfast snacks we're away at a reasonable 10.00am. We have about a 4-hour run today but I factored in a couple of site visits on the way. We don't quite know how the day will pan out, so we haven't booked accommodation, just made a note of possible options. This is just as well as I immediately get sidetracked.
Pak Chong Railway Station....... Visits to Pak Chong Railway Station can we hit and miss as regards what I can record there. I had intended to give it a miss believing there would be not much to see as the station only serves the Northeastern Line. But the tracks are a magnet for me, and I find myself back again. Soon after I arrive, a service from Surin enter the station and not soon after a freight locomotive arrives to pick up some container wagons. The engine is still running so I believe in will depart soon. However, time ticks on and I'm informed of a service soon to arrive from Bangkok for Ubon Ratchathani. I decide to wait and when that arrives to collect its passengers, I see the token is passed to the freight locomotive driver which tells me that this train will depart soon in the opposite direction. Again, I wait, and soon an hour as passed before things settle down again at this station after the freight train departs. At 11.00am we're finally on our way departing Pak Chong.
Mittraphap Highway....... We must make progress now along the Mittraphap Highway. Reaching Nakhon Ratchasima, we head around the bypass and continue towards Khon Khen. Nakhon Ratchasima is a huge province where I've spent several trips here exploring. Two sites of historic importance are on the menu today but first let's check out another menu at a roadside restaurant. Now for some local history.
Thung Samrit Memorial....... Thung Samrit Memorial in Phimai district is a wide field and battleground between the Khorat people and Laotian soldiers during the reign of King Rama III. A shrine was constructed by villagers in 1988 to pay homage to the fighters. A battle scene is represented on the memorial in the form of models of the fighters who are remembered here. On the opposite side of the Mittrephap Road is another historic site or more accurately, a pre-historic one.
Ban Prasat Archaeological Site....... Ban Prasat Archaeological Site hit the news in Thailand some time ago and I added it to my wish list. Now I can find out more. The site is an outdoor museum located in Non Sung District. The site is believed to have been an agricultural-ceramic society 3,000 years ago in prehistoric times. It is the second archaeological site in Thailand to be set up as an outdoor museum, after Ban Chiang 12 in Udon Thani.
The site offers a glimpse into the community that lived there from prehistoric times to the present day. The community's culture and beliefs are evident from the discoveries of human skeletons and pottery pieces from various levels. The site also provides evidence of human evolution from the Bronze Age through the Iron Age to the Dvaravati and Khmer traditions of the more modern age.
As the result of archaeological digs in 1991, three pits were opened, and some human skeletons and associated pottery was unearthed. The small museum beside dig site 1 is free to enter. I manage to visit the 2 other dig sites noting that dig site 3 has more burials than found at site 2.
Prasat Nang Ram....... Just when I thought I'd finished in Nakhon Ratchasima province, here at the excavation site is a list of other important ancient sites in the area and it appears I've missed one out from previous visits.
Prasat Nang Ram is located in Nang Ram Subdistrict of Phra Tai District. Phrasat Nang Ram sanctuary was built in the 13th century in Khmer Bayonne Art style. It was built by Jayavaraman VII, a prolific builder in the Khmer Kingdom. It was an Arokayasala (a type of hospital) practicing Mahayana Buddhism. It faces east and consists of a single main prasat built in laterite and sandstone. A bannalai (library) is located to the southeast of the main prasat. These buildings are enclosed by a boundary wall with the main porch situated on the east wall. To the northeast of the main prasat outside the wall is a baray (pond).
Prasat Nang Ram was first registered as an ancient monument in the Royal Gazette on 27 September 1936 and revised in the Royal Gazette on 30 June 1981.
So far, most of the day has been spent in Nakhon Ratchasima province and incidental to the main objective of this tour. However, finally we enter Maha Sarakham province, a province that is hardly on anyone's visit list. That included me as I passed through here a couple of times without considering there was anything worthwhile to record. How wrong I was, as further research resulted in a list of attractions, I will not leave without visiting. But first we have enough time to head for one which is not on that list.
Phrathat In Plaeng....... Prathat In Plaeng in Phayakkhaphum Phisai District, was built more than thirty years ago. It was started by Luang Por Saman Ophaso who brought together the villagers to build the Phra That. Its design inspiration was from Phra That Phanom. From the decoration on top, it resembles the Phra That Na Dun Cloister and landscaping was made in Khmer style, with wells being built in all four directions of the Phra That while the pattern of the reliefs and stucco are used in Balinese art. All the construction was done by craftsmen in the area.
Phayakkhaphum Phisai....... With little daylight left, there's little more we can do but find accommodation. Phayakkhaphum Phisai not far away is a relatively small provincial town and from my experience there could be issues in finding suitable accommodation. In the morning I had anticipated that we might be struggling to make the provincial capital today. I can now put my Plan B into operation. The only suitable option seems to be Lullaby Residence. When we check it out it ticks many of the boxes and we have no hesitation in paying 490 baht. For this price there must be limitations, but these turn out to be minor. There is no lift, but we have a room on the ground floor. The rooms are spacious and relatively modern although the shower area in the bathroom is a bit grubby, the tiles stained with age and the shower head botched repaired instead of being replaced. The bed could be larger for the size of the room. For the standard of accommodation, you would not expect a mini bar plus a selection of personal items for sale including condoms. The residence is in a quiet street but hey, there is a restaurant and small shop 200 metres away. My budget will be well under control here. The location in the town is also favorable.
I can now start on my attractions list for tomorrow working north towards Maha Sarakham City. It's going to require a full day. It's so far so good now.
Next Page.
Nakhon Ratchasima Province
Pak Chong Railway Station, Pak Chong,
Pak Chong District
Food on the Go? Non Sung District
Thung Samrit Memorial, Phimai District
Ban Prasat Archeaological Site Museum and Burial Pit 1, Than Prasat, Non Sung District
Ta Kon Ruk Bridge, Than Prasat,
Non Sung District
Ban Prasat Archeaological Site Burial Pit 2, Than Prasat, Non Sung District
Ban Prasat Archeaological Site Burial Pit 3, Than Prasat, Non Sung District
Prasat Nang Ram, Nang Ram, Prathai District
Wat Nang Ram, Nang Ram, Prathai District
Maha Sarakham Province
Phrathat In Plaeng, Nang Ram, Phayakkhaphum Phisai District