Day 7, Thursday 24th November -
That Phanom
Thatphanom View Hotel.......For this tour I've hardly mentioned the accommodation we've stayed in overnight which is testimony to the comfort and value for money you receive here in Thailand's northeast. Thatphanom View Hotel is really no exception and the only comment I would make is that this hotel is a bit tired having seen better days. Otherwise, the facilities are good and location excellent quite near a Lotus superstore as well as restaurants and shops. Also, for a change breakfast is included which is more than enough to get us started for the day, a day that has to produce the goods or there will be no point in me making the decision to come here. There is only the one day here and perhaps a couple of hours in the morning. I won't get a second bite of the cherry this trip. My concerns are accentuated when we get a late start at around 10.30am.
There are a few locations near to our accommodation but a good number of attractions lie to the north in and around Nakhon Phanom and the surrounding area and it's in that direction we head first, shortly arriving at our first location which sets the tone for our trip out today with its dazzling splendor. However, regarding the weather, I hope this tone doesn't continue as heavy rain starts again.
Phra That Marukkha Nakhon.......Phra That Marukkha Nakhon is located in Don Nang Hong Ta village, That Phanom district. It was built in 1993. The stupa was constructed square shaped similar to Phra That Phanom but smaller being 50.9 metres high and 20 metres wide. It was built to celebrate King Rama IX's 50 years on the throne with 9 spots representing the 9th king of the current dynasty.
Wat Mahathat (Phra That Nakhon).......Arriving in Nakhon Phanom the rain has eased and we instinctively head along the bank of the mighty Mekong River locating another beautiful temple, Wat Mahathat (Phra That Nakhon).
Wat Mahathat is a stupa in distinctive Laotian style containing Buddha's relics worshipped by those born on a Saturday. The stupa is surrounded by a dazzling array of Buddha and Naga images.
Nakhon Phanom Riverside.......Nakhon Phanom is not a large city. It's divided into the functional trading area and the tourist orientated bank of the Mekong River. The latter is where I need to concentrate my efforts since as well as being a tourist attraction, it has some historically important sites. The principal tourist attractions along the riverfront are the Vietnamese Clock Tower, Walking Street which functions as a night bazaar and the Naga Park.
The Naga Monument.......The Naga Monument is a new addition to the riverfront area of Nakhon Phanom having been installed in 2016 as part of a drive to increase tourism in the North Eastern Region of Thailand. The statue is 15 metres high and 5 metres at its octagonal base. The statue itself is cast from brass and weighs around 9 tonnes. From here we continue north along the river bank.
Nakhon Phanom Courthouse.......Next is the former Nakhon Phanom Courthouse which started construction in 1917 as a single-story building built in masonry brick. The beams ceiling and roof frames are all made of hardwood and there is a clay tiled roof. The opening ceremony of the courthouse was on April 1st 1918. In 1940 Thailand had a dispute with French Indochina and the courthouse was hit by cartridges and bombs causing more than 40 wall cracks. After that it was repaired and used as the office of the Nakhon Phanom provincial court which converted the basement into a jail used until March 3rd 1963. The building is now well over 100 years old.
Former Governor's Residence.......Nakhon Phanom's location on the border with Laos means that historically it has close connections with that country and of course also with colonialism. The French occupation of Indochina has resulted in its influence in this area which has affected culture, religion, architecture and to some extent politics. Inevitably during colonialism there were disputes. Probably the best place to understand the effects of geopolitics is at the Former Governor's Residence. Thanks to www.museumthailand.com I can provide the following information.
The Nakhon Phanom Provincial Governor's Residence (old building) has unique and beautiful Western-style architecture, influenced by the French style of construction during the Indochina war. The two-story building illustrates life in the former city of Nakhon Phanom. The museum is divided into 5 zones.
Ground floor, Zone 1 narrates the memories of local residents and biographies of the past governors through photos.
Ground floor, Zone 2 has no information stated.
Ground floor, Zone 3 Muang Suen Nakhon Phanom relates the story of cultural diversity and lifestyle that is shared between Thailand, Laos and Vietnam.
2nd Floor, Zone 1 relates the story with images and sound of the times while his majesty the King and Queen came for overnight visits.
2nd Floor, Zone 2 exhibits the large bedroom where his majesty the King and Queen used when in residence. However, there is no furniture here now since the Bureau of the Royal Household took them away after the visit.
Saint Anna Nong Saeng Church.......Just a little further along the riverbank is Saint Anna Nong Saeng Church, established by Patriarch John Baptist Prodom in 1913. However, construction was halted in August 1914 at the start of World War I but continued to completion in 1919. In 1939 the church was extended to become a delightful gothic structure with its twin towers and decorative gateway in front. Most of its furnishings and equipment was transported by barge from Saigon. Sadly, in October 1940, the Franco-Thai War broke out and the church was completely destroyed by shelling but was subsequenty rebuilt.
Surprisingly what I've uncovered in Nakhon Phanom has used up relatively little time so far. That means I can move further north but obviously I cannot cover the entire province in just one day but I can reach Tha Uthen district. On the way there is an iconic bridge, one which I used in February 2014 while visiting Laos.
3rd Thai/Lao Friendship Bridge.......According to Wikipedia, the Third Thai/Lao Friendship Bridge over the Mekong River is a bridge that connects Nakhon Phanom Province with Thakhek, Khammouane Province in Laos. The bridge's foundation stone was laid on 6 March 2009, and it opened for traffic on 11 November 2011. The bridge is 1,423 metres long and 13 metres wide. Moving into Tha Uthen district we locate another important temple.
Phrathat Tha Uthen.......Phrathat Tha Uthen is a stupa containing the Buddha's relic worshipped by those born on a Friday. There is a belief that people who worship this stupa will gain merit and their life will be like the sunrise at dawn. Phrathat Tha Uthen is situated at Ban Tha Uthen, near the Tha Uthen District Office. We begin our journey back another way where there are more attractions.
Ho Chi Minh's Former Residence.......Just a couple of kilometres west of Nakhon Phanom in Nong Yat we find Ho Chi Minh's former residence. It is a reconstruction of a simple wooden house where 'Uncle Ho' sometimes stayed in 1928 and 1929 while planning his resistance movement in Vietnam. Some of the furnishings are believed to be original. The house lies on private land administered by an ex-pat Vietnamese family. To the rear of the house is a small garden and outlet for selling imported Vietnamese products which helps to maintain the building in good order. Entry is free.
It's worth noting that the distance to Vietnam here as the crow flies is little more than 100 kilometres which made it logistically feasible Ho Chi Minh's forces to penetrate into Vietnam using the Ho Chi Minh Trail.
For those who want to pick up on this story, near to the former Ho Chi Minh's residence is a memorial museum constructed by the Vietnamese government in remembrance of their former leader.
Phrathat Mahachai.......It was always going to be the case that trying to pack in as much as we could today would result in a late finish. There is one more Phrathat I must try to reach but there will be little daylight left before we reach it.
After a 30-minute drive I locate Phra That Mahachai in Pla Pak district. This is a stupa containing the Buddha's relics worshipped by those born on a Wednesday. The stupa, built in local style with Laotian influence is built in a white octagonal shape decorated with golden patterns on a base raised about three metres from the floor. However, at the present time it's also the location where a major funeral is being prepared and I just wonder how much intrusion is acceptable.
Phrathat Renu Nakhon.......We continue to another attraction on the way back to That Phanom knowing that it will be in complete darkness when we arrive. However, this is no issue at all as we expect it to be beautifully lit up against the night sky. As we arrive, we are treated to a glorious light show but curiously this temple is completely deserted.
Phra That Renu Nakhon is located in Renu Nakhon district. This Elegant Laotian stupa (or chedi) is the town's main attraction and dominates the area at 36 metres tall by 8 metres wide. The chedi is based on the much older and very highly revered chedi of Wat Phra That Phanom, in That Phanom. Although not the same in shape or size, the two stupas share the same design characteristics.
From Laotian to Korean.......Returning back to the residence I've realised by now that there are seven Laotian style stupas in Nakhon Phanom province, one for each day of the week. So far, I've visited four in just one day but it's been a very long one as we retire to consume a Korean style BBQ. Today's huge haul of site visits has put me under some pressure to write up my notes and tomorrow it will be just as busy.
Next Page.
That Phanom
Thatphanom View Hotel.......For this tour I've hardly mentioned the accommodation we've stayed in overnight which is testimony to the comfort and value for money you receive here in Thailand's northeast. Thatphanom View Hotel is really no exception and the only comment I would make is that this hotel is a bit tired having seen better days. Otherwise, the facilities are good and location excellent quite near a Lotus superstore as well as restaurants and shops. Also, for a change breakfast is included which is more than enough to get us started for the day, a day that has to produce the goods or there will be no point in me making the decision to come here. There is only the one day here and perhaps a couple of hours in the morning. I won't get a second bite of the cherry this trip. My concerns are accentuated when we get a late start at around 10.30am.
There are a few locations near to our accommodation but a good number of attractions lie to the north in and around Nakhon Phanom and the surrounding area and it's in that direction we head first, shortly arriving at our first location which sets the tone for our trip out today with its dazzling splendor. However, regarding the weather, I hope this tone doesn't continue as heavy rain starts again.
Phra That Marukkha Nakhon.......Phra That Marukkha Nakhon is located in Don Nang Hong Ta village, That Phanom district. It was built in 1993. The stupa was constructed square shaped similar to Phra That Phanom but smaller being 50.9 metres high and 20 metres wide. It was built to celebrate King Rama IX's 50 years on the throne with 9 spots representing the 9th king of the current dynasty.
Wat Mahathat (Phra That Nakhon).......Arriving in Nakhon Phanom the rain has eased and we instinctively head along the bank of the mighty Mekong River locating another beautiful temple, Wat Mahathat (Phra That Nakhon).
Wat Mahathat is a stupa in distinctive Laotian style containing Buddha's relics worshipped by those born on a Saturday. The stupa is surrounded by a dazzling array of Buddha and Naga images.
Nakhon Phanom Riverside.......Nakhon Phanom is not a large city. It's divided into the functional trading area and the tourist orientated bank of the Mekong River. The latter is where I need to concentrate my efforts since as well as being a tourist attraction, it has some historically important sites. The principal tourist attractions along the riverfront are the Vietnamese Clock Tower, Walking Street which functions as a night bazaar and the Naga Park.
The Naga Monument.......The Naga Monument is a new addition to the riverfront area of Nakhon Phanom having been installed in 2016 as part of a drive to increase tourism in the North Eastern Region of Thailand. The statue is 15 metres high and 5 metres at its octagonal base. The statue itself is cast from brass and weighs around 9 tonnes. From here we continue north along the river bank.
Nakhon Phanom Courthouse.......Next is the former Nakhon Phanom Courthouse which started construction in 1917 as a single-story building built in masonry brick. The beams ceiling and roof frames are all made of hardwood and there is a clay tiled roof. The opening ceremony of the courthouse was on April 1st 1918. In 1940 Thailand had a dispute with French Indochina and the courthouse was hit by cartridges and bombs causing more than 40 wall cracks. After that it was repaired and used as the office of the Nakhon Phanom provincial court which converted the basement into a jail used until March 3rd 1963. The building is now well over 100 years old.
Former Governor's Residence.......Nakhon Phanom's location on the border with Laos means that historically it has close connections with that country and of course also with colonialism. The French occupation of Indochina has resulted in its influence in this area which has affected culture, religion, architecture and to some extent politics. Inevitably during colonialism there were disputes. Probably the best place to understand the effects of geopolitics is at the Former Governor's Residence. Thanks to www.museumthailand.com I can provide the following information.
The Nakhon Phanom Provincial Governor's Residence (old building) has unique and beautiful Western-style architecture, influenced by the French style of construction during the Indochina war. The two-story building illustrates life in the former city of Nakhon Phanom. The museum is divided into 5 zones.
Ground floor, Zone 1 narrates the memories of local residents and biographies of the past governors through photos.
Ground floor, Zone 2 has no information stated.
Ground floor, Zone 3 Muang Suen Nakhon Phanom relates the story of cultural diversity and lifestyle that is shared between Thailand, Laos and Vietnam.
2nd Floor, Zone 1 relates the story with images and sound of the times while his majesty the King and Queen came for overnight visits.
2nd Floor, Zone 2 exhibits the large bedroom where his majesty the King and Queen used when in residence. However, there is no furniture here now since the Bureau of the Royal Household took them away after the visit.
Saint Anna Nong Saeng Church.......Just a little further along the riverbank is Saint Anna Nong Saeng Church, established by Patriarch John Baptist Prodom in 1913. However, construction was halted in August 1914 at the start of World War I but continued to completion in 1919. In 1939 the church was extended to become a delightful gothic structure with its twin towers and decorative gateway in front. Most of its furnishings and equipment was transported by barge from Saigon. Sadly, in October 1940, the Franco-Thai War broke out and the church was completely destroyed by shelling but was subsequenty rebuilt.
Surprisingly what I've uncovered in Nakhon Phanom has used up relatively little time so far. That means I can move further north but obviously I cannot cover the entire province in just one day but I can reach Tha Uthen district. On the way there is an iconic bridge, one which I used in February 2014 while visiting Laos.
3rd Thai/Lao Friendship Bridge.......According to Wikipedia, the Third Thai/Lao Friendship Bridge over the Mekong River is a bridge that connects Nakhon Phanom Province with Thakhek, Khammouane Province in Laos. The bridge's foundation stone was laid on 6 March 2009, and it opened for traffic on 11 November 2011. The bridge is 1,423 metres long and 13 metres wide. Moving into Tha Uthen district we locate another important temple.
Phrathat Tha Uthen.......Phrathat Tha Uthen is a stupa containing the Buddha's relic worshipped by those born on a Friday. There is a belief that people who worship this stupa will gain merit and their life will be like the sunrise at dawn. Phrathat Tha Uthen is situated at Ban Tha Uthen, near the Tha Uthen District Office. We begin our journey back another way where there are more attractions.
Ho Chi Minh's Former Residence.......Just a couple of kilometres west of Nakhon Phanom in Nong Yat we find Ho Chi Minh's former residence. It is a reconstruction of a simple wooden house where 'Uncle Ho' sometimes stayed in 1928 and 1929 while planning his resistance movement in Vietnam. Some of the furnishings are believed to be original. The house lies on private land administered by an ex-pat Vietnamese family. To the rear of the house is a small garden and outlet for selling imported Vietnamese products which helps to maintain the building in good order. Entry is free.
It's worth noting that the distance to Vietnam here as the crow flies is little more than 100 kilometres which made it logistically feasible Ho Chi Minh's forces to penetrate into Vietnam using the Ho Chi Minh Trail.
For those who want to pick up on this story, near to the former Ho Chi Minh's residence is a memorial museum constructed by the Vietnamese government in remembrance of their former leader.
Phrathat Mahachai.......It was always going to be the case that trying to pack in as much as we could today would result in a late finish. There is one more Phrathat I must try to reach but there will be little daylight left before we reach it.
After a 30-minute drive I locate Phra That Mahachai in Pla Pak district. This is a stupa containing the Buddha's relics worshipped by those born on a Wednesday. The stupa, built in local style with Laotian influence is built in a white octagonal shape decorated with golden patterns on a base raised about three metres from the floor. However, at the present time it's also the location where a major funeral is being prepared and I just wonder how much intrusion is acceptable.
Phrathat Renu Nakhon.......We continue to another attraction on the way back to That Phanom knowing that it will be in complete darkness when we arrive. However, this is no issue at all as we expect it to be beautifully lit up against the night sky. As we arrive, we are treated to a glorious light show but curiously this temple is completely deserted.
Phra That Renu Nakhon is located in Renu Nakhon district. This Elegant Laotian stupa (or chedi) is the town's main attraction and dominates the area at 36 metres tall by 8 metres wide. The chedi is based on the much older and very highly revered chedi of Wat Phra That Phanom, in That Phanom. Although not the same in shape or size, the two stupas share the same design characteristics.
From Laotian to Korean.......Returning back to the residence I've realised by now that there are seven Laotian style stupas in Nakhon Phanom province, one for each day of the week. So far, I've visited four in just one day but it's been a very long one as we retire to consume a Korean style BBQ. Today's huge haul of site visits has put me under some pressure to write up my notes and tomorrow it will be just as busy.
Next Page.
Phra That Merukkka Nakhon,
That Phanom District
Wat Mahathat (Phra That Nakhon,
Mueang Nakhon Phanom District
Mueang Nakhon Phanom
Mekong River, Nakhon Phanom District
Naga Park, Mueang Nakhon Phanom
Former Courthouse,
Mueang Nakhon Phanom
Former Governor's Residence,
Mueang Nakhon Phanom
Saint Anna Nong Seng Church,
Mueang Nakhon Phanom
3rd Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge,
Mueang Nakhon Phanom District
Phrathat Tha Uthen, Tha Uthen District
Ho Chi Minh's Former Residence,
Mueang Nakhon Phanom District
Ho Chi Minh Memorial Museum,
Mueang Nakhon Phanom District
Phrathat Mahachai, Pla Pak District
Phrathat Renu Nakhon, Renu Nakhon District