Day 5, Tuesday 22nd November -
Sakon Nakhon
Reboot.......Reaching Sakon Nakhon last night was another major milestone and apart from transiting I've never stayed or visited this province before. Whatever I achieve here will be a valuable addition to my travel list. By now the Hop Inn apartment chain is so familiar to us it doesn't matter where we go the rooms seem to be identical and we know what to expect. Nevertheless, the late arrival last night after so much activity has meant it's been hard work in the morning patiently bringing my blog up to date but in any case, a slight pause in proceedings is no bad thing. Accordingly, it's gone 11:00am before we venture out. The only consolation being that today is not a day of transition. However, I have to balance the situation and to make a start on exploring this new province.
Phu Pan Range.......I'm aware that a day in this province will not do it justice but let's see what the best part of two days can do. In the west of Sakon Nakhon is a mountainous region part of the Phu Pan Range and I've made a decision to visit this area today while tomorrow I've reserved for visiting attractions in the city and surrounding areas. By the time of departure, I have already made a decision as to where we head next and that's towards those mountains.
Prasat Phu Phek.......Initially we head along Hwy 22 in the direction of Udon Thani but soon turn left off the highway into the mountains where at around midday we reach Prasat Phu Phek hardly knowing what to expect. Reaching the base of Phu Phek there is an isolated group of temple buildings but quite where the prasat is I don't really know so my companion asks a monk. Then to my bewilderment I realise where it is. It's on the top of the hill of course which means steps, all 491 of them. Well, ok it's not blisteringly hot into the high 20's and there's a breeze and plenty of shade. It's not quite what I wanted but I just know that reaching the top of this hill will not only be an accomplishment but also afford excellent views. Figuring that many reservations are mostly all in the mind, I just can't help but take the challenge which by taking it stage by stage I managed to pass with flying colours. It's just a question now of what's on top of the hill that has caused such effort.
Prasat Phu Phek is an ancient site built from sandstone quarried nearby. The Prasat is characterised by a protruding terrace. The entrance is to the east. Architecturally, Prasat Phu Phek is influenced by the Bapuan Angkor Wat style between the 11th and 12th Centuries.
My arrival at this sanctuary has answered a question I had after I realised that Sakon Nakhon was a major city in the Khmer Empire named Khotraboon. The position of this sanctuary on the top of a mountain is indicative of Hindu worship of Gods residing on the mythical Mount Meru. Being close to the gods is the whole point of building sanctuaries on mountain tops. It's also quite typical to find sandstone quarries near Hindu religious sites in Thailand as is the case here.
This is effectively the first site of real interest I've visited in Sakon Nakhon province and I've clearly started with a difficult one. But the time we've returned to the car park the best part of two hours has elapsed and we haven't even had lunch yet. We put this right at a small village restaurant. Now let's just try another attraction which has the potential to be similar.
Wat Tham Kham.......Fortunately, reaching Wat Tham Kham it's a little easier on the legs and I'm able to reach it by ascending far fewer steps. The most visually interesting feature of this temple is that it's built on a cliff edge on a ledge under a rocky overhang. It's obviously a place of solitude which attracts monks to come and practice their faith. Wat Tham Kham used to be where the famous monks Achan Fan and Luang Pho Tet meditated. A pagoda housing the relics of the later is located here. The temple also houses the ashes of Phra Achan Tet Tetrangsi where pilgrims regularly come to pay homage.
Achan Fan Museum.......At around 3:30pm we don't really have spare time to make detours but my companion manages to find one which relates directly to Wat Tham Kham and the revered monk Achan Fan. There is a museum dedicated to him nearby which is only open by arrangement. After this visit it now becomes a balancing act regarding time as we haven't even reached the furtest point of our trip out today but I'm determined to press on a reach the Nam Un Reservoir which on arrival, doesn't absorb a great deal of time but provides a splendid photo opportunity.
Nam Un Dam.......The Nam Un Dam in Phang Khon district is a multi-purpose dam in a picturesque setting. The earth dam impounds water for irrigation built across the Nam Un River, a tributary of the Songkram River which flows from the Phu Pan Mountain range. The large reservoir formed by the dam is framed by the Phu Pan mountains surrounded by lush forests and serves as a freshwater fish breeding site. The water discharged from the dam creates a small waterfall nearby.
There is one more attraction I'd like to visit in Ban Dong Kham Pho which is further around the reservoir and despite my reservations about the passage of time today I just have to go for it.
Suan Hin Beach.......Suan Hin Beach doesn't sound curious to me knowing its location since I'm aware of a number of lakeside beaches situated alongside some of Thailand's major reservoirs and lakes and this relatively small beach at appropriate times caters for visitors with adequate dining facilities directly beside the lake. Well, today there are very few visitors this late in the day anyway but it's another good photo opportunity. Now finally we have to head back to Sakon Nakhon which when we reach it, it will be dark.
Missing Out.......We reconnect with Hwy 22 and head back towards the city. Unfortunately, our late start today has left two attractions unvisited but as twilight arrives earlier than I expected there is one attraction that I could check out directly alongside Hwy 22.
Mae Teeta is a traditional wooden building that seems to be associated with the cloth industry but at this time of day it's totally deserted. It's now no longer possible to visit the final attraction on my list but due to circumstances there is another one I can, which actually is better visited after dark.
Wat Phra That Choeng Chum Woriwihan.......Back in the city we relocate Wat Phra That Choeng Chum Woriwihan. As I expected this temple is beautifully lit up with dazzling beauty.
Close to the vast Nong Han Lake in Sakon Nakhon, Wat Phra That Choeng Chum was originally a 10th century Khmer monastery. Today the temple is highly revered as it is believed that the four incarnations of the Buddha came to this location and pressed their footprint in the soil here. The chedi was built to cover the footprints of the four Buddha's. The temple's white chedi is 24-metres high with a golden point and dates from the 17th Century. It was assumedly built on the site of the 4 Buddha footprints. The other important element here is the chapel of Luang Pho Ong Saen, a venerated Chiang Saen style Buddha image. This image sits in front as if protecting the vault containing the holy relics in an area women are forbidden to enter. While Luang Pho Ong Saen is the most sacred in the province, Wat Phra That Choeng Chum is also a very important temple for all Buddhists in Thailand.
Relief.......Finally, we can head back to Hop Inn now but not before a stop at the Lotus supermarket near our accommodation. It's a pity that the food court is not open here now so we have to resort to a KFC instead but put ourselves in a better position than we were last night. Hopefully, we can get a good start tomorrow, taking in a good number of attractions before making our relatively short transit to our next destination.
Next Page.
Sakon Nakhon
Reboot.......Reaching Sakon Nakhon last night was another major milestone and apart from transiting I've never stayed or visited this province before. Whatever I achieve here will be a valuable addition to my travel list. By now the Hop Inn apartment chain is so familiar to us it doesn't matter where we go the rooms seem to be identical and we know what to expect. Nevertheless, the late arrival last night after so much activity has meant it's been hard work in the morning patiently bringing my blog up to date but in any case, a slight pause in proceedings is no bad thing. Accordingly, it's gone 11:00am before we venture out. The only consolation being that today is not a day of transition. However, I have to balance the situation and to make a start on exploring this new province.
Phu Pan Range.......I'm aware that a day in this province will not do it justice but let's see what the best part of two days can do. In the west of Sakon Nakhon is a mountainous region part of the Phu Pan Range and I've made a decision to visit this area today while tomorrow I've reserved for visiting attractions in the city and surrounding areas. By the time of departure, I have already made a decision as to where we head next and that's towards those mountains.
Prasat Phu Phek.......Initially we head along Hwy 22 in the direction of Udon Thani but soon turn left off the highway into the mountains where at around midday we reach Prasat Phu Phek hardly knowing what to expect. Reaching the base of Phu Phek there is an isolated group of temple buildings but quite where the prasat is I don't really know so my companion asks a monk. Then to my bewilderment I realise where it is. It's on the top of the hill of course which means steps, all 491 of them. Well, ok it's not blisteringly hot into the high 20's and there's a breeze and plenty of shade. It's not quite what I wanted but I just know that reaching the top of this hill will not only be an accomplishment but also afford excellent views. Figuring that many reservations are mostly all in the mind, I just can't help but take the challenge which by taking it stage by stage I managed to pass with flying colours. It's just a question now of what's on top of the hill that has caused such effort.
Prasat Phu Phek is an ancient site built from sandstone quarried nearby. The Prasat is characterised by a protruding terrace. The entrance is to the east. Architecturally, Prasat Phu Phek is influenced by the Bapuan Angkor Wat style between the 11th and 12th Centuries.
My arrival at this sanctuary has answered a question I had after I realised that Sakon Nakhon was a major city in the Khmer Empire named Khotraboon. The position of this sanctuary on the top of a mountain is indicative of Hindu worship of Gods residing on the mythical Mount Meru. Being close to the gods is the whole point of building sanctuaries on mountain tops. It's also quite typical to find sandstone quarries near Hindu religious sites in Thailand as is the case here.
This is effectively the first site of real interest I've visited in Sakon Nakhon province and I've clearly started with a difficult one. But the time we've returned to the car park the best part of two hours has elapsed and we haven't even had lunch yet. We put this right at a small village restaurant. Now let's just try another attraction which has the potential to be similar.
Wat Tham Kham.......Fortunately, reaching Wat Tham Kham it's a little easier on the legs and I'm able to reach it by ascending far fewer steps. The most visually interesting feature of this temple is that it's built on a cliff edge on a ledge under a rocky overhang. It's obviously a place of solitude which attracts monks to come and practice their faith. Wat Tham Kham used to be where the famous monks Achan Fan and Luang Pho Tet meditated. A pagoda housing the relics of the later is located here. The temple also houses the ashes of Phra Achan Tet Tetrangsi where pilgrims regularly come to pay homage.
Achan Fan Museum.......At around 3:30pm we don't really have spare time to make detours but my companion manages to find one which relates directly to Wat Tham Kham and the revered monk Achan Fan. There is a museum dedicated to him nearby which is only open by arrangement. After this visit it now becomes a balancing act regarding time as we haven't even reached the furtest point of our trip out today but I'm determined to press on a reach the Nam Un Reservoir which on arrival, doesn't absorb a great deal of time but provides a splendid photo opportunity.
Nam Un Dam.......The Nam Un Dam in Phang Khon district is a multi-purpose dam in a picturesque setting. The earth dam impounds water for irrigation built across the Nam Un River, a tributary of the Songkram River which flows from the Phu Pan Mountain range. The large reservoir formed by the dam is framed by the Phu Pan mountains surrounded by lush forests and serves as a freshwater fish breeding site. The water discharged from the dam creates a small waterfall nearby.
There is one more attraction I'd like to visit in Ban Dong Kham Pho which is further around the reservoir and despite my reservations about the passage of time today I just have to go for it.
Suan Hin Beach.......Suan Hin Beach doesn't sound curious to me knowing its location since I'm aware of a number of lakeside beaches situated alongside some of Thailand's major reservoirs and lakes and this relatively small beach at appropriate times caters for visitors with adequate dining facilities directly beside the lake. Well, today there are very few visitors this late in the day anyway but it's another good photo opportunity. Now finally we have to head back to Sakon Nakhon which when we reach it, it will be dark.
Missing Out.......We reconnect with Hwy 22 and head back towards the city. Unfortunately, our late start today has left two attractions unvisited but as twilight arrives earlier than I expected there is one attraction that I could check out directly alongside Hwy 22.
Mae Teeta is a traditional wooden building that seems to be associated with the cloth industry but at this time of day it's totally deserted. It's now no longer possible to visit the final attraction on my list but due to circumstances there is another one I can, which actually is better visited after dark.
Wat Phra That Choeng Chum Woriwihan.......Back in the city we relocate Wat Phra That Choeng Chum Woriwihan. As I expected this temple is beautifully lit up with dazzling beauty.
Close to the vast Nong Han Lake in Sakon Nakhon, Wat Phra That Choeng Chum was originally a 10th century Khmer monastery. Today the temple is highly revered as it is believed that the four incarnations of the Buddha came to this location and pressed their footprint in the soil here. The chedi was built to cover the footprints of the four Buddha's. The temple's white chedi is 24-metres high with a golden point and dates from the 17th Century. It was assumedly built on the site of the 4 Buddha footprints. The other important element here is the chapel of Luang Pho Ong Saen, a venerated Chiang Saen style Buddha image. This image sits in front as if protecting the vault containing the holy relics in an area women are forbidden to enter. While Luang Pho Ong Saen is the most sacred in the province, Wat Phra That Choeng Chum is also a very important temple for all Buddhists in Thailand.
Relief.......Finally, we can head back to Hop Inn now but not before a stop at the Lotus supermarket near our accommodation. It's a pity that the food court is not open here now so we have to resort to a KFC instead but put ourselves in a better position than we were last night. Hopefully, we can get a good start tomorrow, taking in a good number of attractions before making our relatively short transit to our next destination.
Next Page.
Prasat Phu Phek, Phanna Nikhom District
Wat Tham Kham, Phanna Nikhom District
Achan Fan Museum, Phanna Nikhom District
Nam Un Dam, Phang Khon District
Suan Hin Beach, Waritchaphum District
Mae Teeta, Mueang Sakon Nakhon
Wat Phra That Chaeng Chum Woriwihan, Mueang Sakon Nakhon