Day 6, Wednesday 23rd November -
That Phanom
Catching Up.......After a second night at Hop Inn I'm able to catch up with my travel blog after so many site visits in recent days. Being a bit more organised, I can now look forward to another full day in Sakon Nakhon concentrating mainly in the city district where there are more interesting attractions than I had imagined. It's bound to be another long day as we don't need to leave here until dusk. Our hotel has already been booked in the next province just 78 kilometres away.
Arriving at accommodation after dark has been a feature over the last few days but has caused few issues. A 7.30pm arrival is what I'm expecting.
Phu Pan Museum.......At just after 10:00am we hop out of Hop Inn and after some debate decide to concentrate on the city attractions where we left off last night and head for the Phu Phan Museum in view of the Nong Han Lake. Here I'm hoping to considerably expand on what little I know about Sakon Nakhon province.
Phu Phan Museum takes its name from the mountain range in the province and deals with the history, way of life and culture of the local people in Sakon Nakhon in a series of exhibition halls. Unfortunately, this museum has deemed it unnecessary to add an English translation of the vast amount of information contained in this museum. This is a great shame because from the pictograms alone it's quite obvious that this province's history through the ages would make a good read and allow me to place into context what this province has for travelers like me. In particular I would have loved to know more about the Khmer occupation of this area a thousand years ago, the expansion of the Ayutthaya Kingdom into this area and more recently the role it played in World War 2 and in the Vietnam War. While I completely understand that foreign tourists who make it here a few and far between, it shows a lack of vision to restrict this to a national audience rather than an international one. If there is any consolation at all it's the fact that if such translation was available, I would probably want to spend quite some time here, time I just never have enough of.
Reaching for the Stars.......Before I move on to the next attraction on my list, I note that beside the Phu Phan Museum there is a planetarium which attracts my interest. As I enter this building, I ask myself so why is it here that some attempt is made at translation? One thing I soon realise is that this planetarium repeats the history of Thai astronomy as outlined at Waghor planetarium in Prachuap Khiri Khan province but for the sake of educating younger people, this planetarium is well worth a visit.
Nong Han Lake.......The Nong Han is a lake lies to the northeast of the provincial capital town of Sakon Nakhon. The lake covers an area of 125.2 sq/km and is the largest natural lake of northeast Thailand. The main river feeding the lake is the Nam Pung, which originates in the Phu Phan Mountains south of the lake.
From a Lake to a Gate.......The position of the museum next to the Nong Han Lake creates another opportunity to take photos. Our visit to attractions within city continues with our next site visit to the west of the city where I hope to make up some time. Stopping at the City Gate to take more photos we move on to the next attraction still in the city district.
Phrathat Narai Cheng Weng is a Khmer sanctuary in ruin built of sandstone. The Phrasat is built on a terrace extending beyond it. There is only one entrance, the other three sides have false doorways. A stone lintel depicting Krishna fighting with a lion was found together with the gable board on which is represented Shiva Lord of dance and Vishnu. Based on finds from this sanctuary it can be deduced that the monument was influenced by the Bapuan period of Khmer history and that it dates from 10th century A.D.
Another Water Feature.......With this site needing little time for me to gather information we can swiftly move on to the next which requires about a 20-minute drive around to the north of Nong Han Lake where there is a community with a fascinating history.
From highway 22 we reach the Lotus and Water Lily Park which is located in the grounds of Kasetsart University. Here there is another excellent photo opportunity as walkways have been constructed crisscrossing the lotus pond. While we could spend time relaxing here there are other attractions in this area and besides, we are greeted with a thunderstorm.
The next attraction is just three kilometres away at Tha Rae and it's one that’s symbolic and the reason this community exists.
St. Michael's Cathedral.......St. Michael's Cathedral is a large Catholic Cathedral in the Sakon Nakhon district of Tha Rae, the largest Catholic community in Thailand. Shaped like a boat, it is formally named St. Michael the Archangel Cathedral. Near one of the cathedral's columns, you'll see a prominent sculpture of St. Michael holding a spear, which symbolizes the vanquishing of Satan and God's triumph over evil.
The story of the creation of Saint Michael's church is an interesting one. It was established in 1884 when a French Catholic missionary arrived with a group of newly baptised Vietnamese people, most of them slaves numbering about 150 people. The story of how they arrived in northeastern Thailand is a long, fascinating and often tragic one but a bit beyond the scope of my relatively brief daily blog.
At the cathedral there is information regarding the various phases of construction of this important religious site. Today only photographic evidence of the former churches on this site exists but briefly a second church was built in 1901 then a new cathedral constructed in 1965 with subsequent extentions taking place in 1994 and 2012.
Tha Rae Community.......Of course, Saint Michael's Cathedral it's not the only building in Tha Rae, and other colonial style buildings exist which have a history all of their own. In one of these buildings there is a restaurant and that will do nicely as it's now past midday. As one would expect this restaurant serves both Thai and Vietnamese food. Some of these buildings have signboards giving their histories and not forgetting there is some street art here too. Finally, we have a bit more time to view Nong Han Lake from a different perspective at Tawan Ron Thee.
Chang Puek Camp.......It's now mid afternoon and there are a few more attractions on my list but realistically just two seems to be the limit. We move back round to the western side of Sakon Nakhon heading southwest where I locate Chang Puek Camp.
As expected, this is an elephant camp created with typical Thai artistic landscape design which is so pleasing to the eye but of course, it's the elephants that are the big attraction. We arrive in time for a popular elephant show which is poorly attended right now. My companion is eager to get involved but I have my reservations about the ethics of this type of entertainment but for the purpose of my report, I have to run with it. The show features a variety of tricks performed by two younger elephants who seem to adapt to their training quite well for a reward of bamboo. I don't need to go into more detail but this is after all a commercial enterprise based on an entry fee of 100 baht. Every encouragement is made for you to spend more which of course, means food for the elephants too. With this visit there is definitely just one more site visit possible which closed at 5pm.
Wat Tham Pha Daen.......Arriving at Wat Tham Pha Daen, I'm forewarned that we cannot dive straight to it but need to take a songthaew (small truck) to the hilltop but at just 20 baht per person this is hardly a rip-off: I paid ten times that amount to visit a hilltop temple in Bali. We're soon whisked away to the summit, 2 kilometres away.
Wat Tham Pha Daen is located in the Phu Phan Mountain range, only a 35 minute drive from downtown Sakon Nakhon. This famous temple offers some of the most stunning views in Sakon Nakhon, and the most fascinating Buddhist sculptures, statues, and carvings (in both wood and stone) in Thailand.
We spend perhaps 45 minutes here but 2 hours would not be wasted. In that time, I build up an incredible affection for this temple and try to put my feelings into words. All I can say from a person who seems to deny anything from touching my heart these days that if Paradise ever exists it's here at Wat Tham Pha Daen. I'm just blown away with it. After visiting hundreds of temples in Thailand I declare that this temple blends in so naturally with its surroundings that no amount of brick and concrete could ever surpass it.
Suki in That Phanom.......At 5pm we declare today's site visits over but there is just the minor matter of leaving Sakon Nakhon for That Phanom in Nakhon Phanom province 90 kilometres to the east. This journey takes an hour and a half which again puts our arrival after dark in rather damp and gloomy conditions. Arriving at That Phanom we locate our booked accommodation but decide to take dinner first on the banks of the Mekong River where there is a selection of restaurants with tables set out on the riverbank. We decide on what seems to be the most common food fare here, Jim Jum or Suki (a hot pot). It's another cultural experience to sit out on the pavement beside the river in cooler night air and that with do nicely before we check-in at Thatphanom View Hotel which seems to meet our needs perfectly.
Next Page.
That Phanom
Catching Up.......After a second night at Hop Inn I'm able to catch up with my travel blog after so many site visits in recent days. Being a bit more organised, I can now look forward to another full day in Sakon Nakhon concentrating mainly in the city district where there are more interesting attractions than I had imagined. It's bound to be another long day as we don't need to leave here until dusk. Our hotel has already been booked in the next province just 78 kilometres away.
Arriving at accommodation after dark has been a feature over the last few days but has caused few issues. A 7.30pm arrival is what I'm expecting.
Phu Pan Museum.......At just after 10:00am we hop out of Hop Inn and after some debate decide to concentrate on the city attractions where we left off last night and head for the Phu Phan Museum in view of the Nong Han Lake. Here I'm hoping to considerably expand on what little I know about Sakon Nakhon province.
Phu Phan Museum takes its name from the mountain range in the province and deals with the history, way of life and culture of the local people in Sakon Nakhon in a series of exhibition halls. Unfortunately, this museum has deemed it unnecessary to add an English translation of the vast amount of information contained in this museum. This is a great shame because from the pictograms alone it's quite obvious that this province's history through the ages would make a good read and allow me to place into context what this province has for travelers like me. In particular I would have loved to know more about the Khmer occupation of this area a thousand years ago, the expansion of the Ayutthaya Kingdom into this area and more recently the role it played in World War 2 and in the Vietnam War. While I completely understand that foreign tourists who make it here a few and far between, it shows a lack of vision to restrict this to a national audience rather than an international one. If there is any consolation at all it's the fact that if such translation was available, I would probably want to spend quite some time here, time I just never have enough of.
Reaching for the Stars.......Before I move on to the next attraction on my list, I note that beside the Phu Phan Museum there is a planetarium which attracts my interest. As I enter this building, I ask myself so why is it here that some attempt is made at translation? One thing I soon realise is that this planetarium repeats the history of Thai astronomy as outlined at Waghor planetarium in Prachuap Khiri Khan province but for the sake of educating younger people, this planetarium is well worth a visit.
Nong Han Lake.......The Nong Han is a lake lies to the northeast of the provincial capital town of Sakon Nakhon. The lake covers an area of 125.2 sq/km and is the largest natural lake of northeast Thailand. The main river feeding the lake is the Nam Pung, which originates in the Phu Phan Mountains south of the lake.
From a Lake to a Gate.......The position of the museum next to the Nong Han Lake creates another opportunity to take photos. Our visit to attractions within city continues with our next site visit to the west of the city where I hope to make up some time. Stopping at the City Gate to take more photos we move on to the next attraction still in the city district.
Phrathat Narai Cheng Weng is a Khmer sanctuary in ruin built of sandstone. The Phrasat is built on a terrace extending beyond it. There is only one entrance, the other three sides have false doorways. A stone lintel depicting Krishna fighting with a lion was found together with the gable board on which is represented Shiva Lord of dance and Vishnu. Based on finds from this sanctuary it can be deduced that the monument was influenced by the Bapuan period of Khmer history and that it dates from 10th century A.D.
Another Water Feature.......With this site needing little time for me to gather information we can swiftly move on to the next which requires about a 20-minute drive around to the north of Nong Han Lake where there is a community with a fascinating history.
From highway 22 we reach the Lotus and Water Lily Park which is located in the grounds of Kasetsart University. Here there is another excellent photo opportunity as walkways have been constructed crisscrossing the lotus pond. While we could spend time relaxing here there are other attractions in this area and besides, we are greeted with a thunderstorm.
The next attraction is just three kilometres away at Tha Rae and it's one that’s symbolic and the reason this community exists.
St. Michael's Cathedral.......St. Michael's Cathedral is a large Catholic Cathedral in the Sakon Nakhon district of Tha Rae, the largest Catholic community in Thailand. Shaped like a boat, it is formally named St. Michael the Archangel Cathedral. Near one of the cathedral's columns, you'll see a prominent sculpture of St. Michael holding a spear, which symbolizes the vanquishing of Satan and God's triumph over evil.
The story of the creation of Saint Michael's church is an interesting one. It was established in 1884 when a French Catholic missionary arrived with a group of newly baptised Vietnamese people, most of them slaves numbering about 150 people. The story of how they arrived in northeastern Thailand is a long, fascinating and often tragic one but a bit beyond the scope of my relatively brief daily blog.
At the cathedral there is information regarding the various phases of construction of this important religious site. Today only photographic evidence of the former churches on this site exists but briefly a second church was built in 1901 then a new cathedral constructed in 1965 with subsequent extentions taking place in 1994 and 2012.
Tha Rae Community.......Of course, Saint Michael's Cathedral it's not the only building in Tha Rae, and other colonial style buildings exist which have a history all of their own. In one of these buildings there is a restaurant and that will do nicely as it's now past midday. As one would expect this restaurant serves both Thai and Vietnamese food. Some of these buildings have signboards giving their histories and not forgetting there is some street art here too. Finally, we have a bit more time to view Nong Han Lake from a different perspective at Tawan Ron Thee.
Chang Puek Camp.......It's now mid afternoon and there are a few more attractions on my list but realistically just two seems to be the limit. We move back round to the western side of Sakon Nakhon heading southwest where I locate Chang Puek Camp.
As expected, this is an elephant camp created with typical Thai artistic landscape design which is so pleasing to the eye but of course, it's the elephants that are the big attraction. We arrive in time for a popular elephant show which is poorly attended right now. My companion is eager to get involved but I have my reservations about the ethics of this type of entertainment but for the purpose of my report, I have to run with it. The show features a variety of tricks performed by two younger elephants who seem to adapt to their training quite well for a reward of bamboo. I don't need to go into more detail but this is after all a commercial enterprise based on an entry fee of 100 baht. Every encouragement is made for you to spend more which of course, means food for the elephants too. With this visit there is definitely just one more site visit possible which closed at 5pm.
Wat Tham Pha Daen.......Arriving at Wat Tham Pha Daen, I'm forewarned that we cannot dive straight to it but need to take a songthaew (small truck) to the hilltop but at just 20 baht per person this is hardly a rip-off: I paid ten times that amount to visit a hilltop temple in Bali. We're soon whisked away to the summit, 2 kilometres away.
Wat Tham Pha Daen is located in the Phu Phan Mountain range, only a 35 minute drive from downtown Sakon Nakhon. This famous temple offers some of the most stunning views in Sakon Nakhon, and the most fascinating Buddhist sculptures, statues, and carvings (in both wood and stone) in Thailand.
We spend perhaps 45 minutes here but 2 hours would not be wasted. In that time, I build up an incredible affection for this temple and try to put my feelings into words. All I can say from a person who seems to deny anything from touching my heart these days that if Paradise ever exists it's here at Wat Tham Pha Daen. I'm just blown away with it. After visiting hundreds of temples in Thailand I declare that this temple blends in so naturally with its surroundings that no amount of brick and concrete could ever surpass it.
Suki in That Phanom.......At 5pm we declare today's site visits over but there is just the minor matter of leaving Sakon Nakhon for That Phanom in Nakhon Phanom province 90 kilometres to the east. This journey takes an hour and a half which again puts our arrival after dark in rather damp and gloomy conditions. Arriving at That Phanom we locate our booked accommodation but decide to take dinner first on the banks of the Mekong River where there is a selection of restaurants with tables set out on the riverbank. We decide on what seems to be the most common food fare here, Jim Jum or Suki (a hot pot). It's another cultural experience to sit out on the pavement beside the river in cooler night air and that with do nicely before we check-in at Thatphanom View Hotel which seems to meet our needs perfectly.
Next Page.
Nong Han Lake (South),
Mueang Sakon Nakhon District
Phu Phan Museum, Mueang Sakon Nakhon
Sakon Nakhon Planetarium,
Mueang Sakon Nakhon
Sakon Nakhon City Gate,
Mueang Sakon Nakhon
Phrathat Narai Cheng Weng,
Mueang Sakon Nakhon
Kasetsart University Lotus and Waterlily Park, Mueang Sakon Nakhon District
St Michael's Church,
Mueang Sakon Nakhon District
Tha Rae Community,
Mueang Sakon Nakhon District
Nong Han Lake (North),
Mueang Sakon Nakhon District
Chang Puek Camp,
Mueang Sakon Nakhon District
Wat Tham Daen,
Mueang Sakon Nakhon District