Day 17, Tuesday 14 May

Live streaming…….. My streaming cold that developed yesterday has caused another sleepless night as I expected but I can’t stay in Mae Chedi now so close to the end of this tour. Again I struggle with my notes from yesterday but at least have produced an unedited version by departure time and get enough to eat for breakfast. But the day is going to to be difficult if Katoon piles on a list of site visits. Within ten minutes, now using highway 120, I’m not optimistic.
Wat Wiang Ka Long…….. Wat Wiang Ka Long is located practically on the provincial border with Lampang. Katoon drives straight into the complex as if some powerful magnet was drawing her in. How will this attraction fit into my blog? It should be the only one in Chiang Rai province.
A clue as to what interest lies at this site is in the name. ‘Wiang’, which has appeared before on this trip means town or city and sure enough there is evidence here of an ancient town. While no ancient ruins exist, there are substantial earthworks on site with a moat indicating a large settlement existed here. However, the site has been utilised as a place of religious teaching and promotion of cultural interest in the region. Accordingly a number of new buildings have been constructed in the regional architectural art style. Fortunately the visit doesn’t take too long and we’re into the mountains again, this time in Lampang province.

Kwan Phayao Viewpoint…….. Despite the magnificent scenery as we now skirt around the southern edge of Doi Luang National Park, in the northern part of Lampang province, I’m finding it hard to stay awake. However as we cross the provincial border into Phayao province there is something worth waking up for. Kwan Phayao is a popular lake on the edge of town in Phayao. As we decend from the mountains there is a really good view of the lake despite the fact that it's about 15 kilometres away. It's well worth a stop here to enjoy some air cooler than there's been for most of this tour.

Wat Phrathat Phu Kwang…….. As we decend out from the mountains, a search is on for both attractions and accommodation. Wat Phrathat Phu Kwang wins the battle on the edge of the forest. This old temple was one of those renovated by Kuba Sirvichai who is regarded as a saint in these northern regions. The chedi is said to contain part of the Buddha's hair.

Ban Rong Hai Historic Site…….. For the moment, we stay south of Kwan Phayao instead of skirting around to the east and into the city. Katoon is looking for an ancient monument and for once local people are not that helpful. She stops at a number of temples, including one Wat Phimai but there are no ruins. Then, when we find a road leading to the lake edge, there is the first ruin I've located in Phayao province. The ruin at Ban Rong Hai Historic Site we've located, is part of Group 1, meaning that there are other sites in the area. Clearly this was a large town.
The Fine Art Department excavated the site in 2003 and found the remains of a chedi, a viharn and two other buildings enclosed within an outer wall. Buddha images recovered at the site are from two different periods but the original construction is at least 2,000 years old.
The discovery of ancient ruins here is more than I expected so early on but this ruin does not fall into any period I've previously come across. All I know is that it's a Buddhist temple.

Peaceful…….. The other thing I know is that I can't carry on much longer feeling so unwell but there is a question of lunch. From the ruin near the lakeside there is a road that skirts around the western part of the lake. In contrast to the eastern shore which is urban, part of Phayao City, this area is peaceful with little development, just the odd restaurant and facilities for fishermen. It's quite picturesque and an ideal area to find peace and quiet close to the mountains and take that lunch at a popular lakeside diner.

Wat Phra That Chomthong…….. It has been a struggle but I finally persuade Katoon to focus on finding accommodation. We complete the loop around the lake joining highway 1 just north of the town and start searching but without success, finally heading back unto town. Then success! Katoon locates another temple. Doh! Phra That Chomthong is an ancient chedi, said to be one of the most revered religious sites among the locals in Phayao. Legend has it that the chedi was originally built in the year 940 in the reign of Phraya Ruen Kaew, Prince of Chiang Rai, to house the Buddha’s relics. Located on the top of a small hill, the temple also offers a panoramic view of the city and lake below. A long naga staircase was constructed to connect it.

SV2 Boutique…….. Finally Katoon doubles back and finds a turn that she missed signposted to SV2 Boutique. Arriving at this accommodation, it reminds me of the one we stayed in in Nakhon Sawan; rooms built around a courtyard but smaller. Outwardly it looks a bit tired and passed its best but while I’m sure we could do better, I would rather end the suffering and get some sleep. Signs of life…….. Arriving at SV2 Boutique around 3pm, I don’t wake up till 6pm and Katoon agrees to forgo a dinner if I don’t want to go out. However, with my streaming cold unchanged, at least there’s a bit more life in me now and we head off down to the promenade to get a view of the lake before dark. Of course we’ve been here before passing through on a previous trip, then around lunch time. Now there’s a good opportunity to have a lovely dinner beside the lake but I’m not really in the mood for that and settle for something less exotic on the pavement outside 7-eleven. Besides it’s been cloudy for most of the day and that glorious sunset just won’t happen. Back in the room I manage to get most of my blog written up but suffer from a poor internet connection. Katoon on the other hand is struggling to get the TV to work. Oh well! An earlier night won’t do any harm at all. Next Page.