Day 15, Sunday 12 May

Relief…….. Our stopover in Chom Thong is for good reason but as a bonus, a combination of factors have taken a lot of stress out of the tour that has been building up while we were in Chiang Mai. The comfort and convenience at Chomthong Boutique is pleasant enough but as we sit out on the communal terrace where there is self service coffee and cookies, the temperature is markedly cooler: I would say well back in the 20’s Celsius. It’s remarkable how the whole ambiance has changed in 24 hours. As I look forward to a great day in the mountains the only things that rankle is the consistency with which we manage to miss our targets for each day and the failure to make an early start. For those reasons I decide to stay in Chom Thong for a second night knowing that I am happy with my stay here.
Doi Inthanon National Park…….. As we make a start and head off into the mountains, the first checkpoint for Doi Inthanon National Park is just about 10 kilometres away along rural road 1009. Of course I’m expecting to pay a premium price as a foreigner which I find out is 300 baht; still cheaper that Khao Yai National Park though and certainly not to be missed now I’ve made the effort to get here. At the check-point, we’re told to park up while Katoon gets the tickets. She’s soon back handing me the money I gave her. Huh! What’s going on? Apparently they asked her where she was going and she mentioned a feature which I soon discover isn’t actually in the park but you do need to drive through the park to get to it. I am aware that to get to the next district west from Chom Thong requires a drive through the park so there’s obviously a concession in place here. But to my mind there’s another word for it and that’s ‘loophole’. Not for the first time Katoon has pulled a rabbit out of the hat!
Doi Inthanon is one of the most popular national parks in Thailand, famous for its waterfalls, nature trails, remote villages, picturesque montain farms, viewpoints, watching the sunrise/sunset, birdwatching and the all year round cool weather. Also known as "The Roof of Thailand", Doi Inthanon National Park covers an area of 482 km² in Chiang Mai province north Thailand. The park is part of the Himalayan mountain range, elevation ranges between 800 and 2,565 meters with the highest peak at Doi Inthanon which is the highest mountain in Thailand. The park has high humidity and cold weather all year round. The average daily temperatures are normally around 10-12 °C at the higher elevations.
The park is named in honour of the king Inthawichayanon, one of the last kings of Chiang Mai, who was concerned about the forests in the north of Thailand and wanted to preserve it. After his death his remains was placed in the park as he ordered and the forest was renamed to Doi Inthanon.
The flora consists of moist evergreen cloud forests, sphagnum bog on elevations over 1,800 metres, also dry evergreen, pine, mixed deciduous teak and dipterocarp forests on the lower elevations.
Due to hunting and habitat change bigger mammals such as elephants, tigers, gaurs have been extirpated from the park decades ago. Some mammals such as wild boars, gibbons, deer and serows still inhabits the park. There are currently around 65 mammals in the national park, half of these bat species. Lucky visitors may see serows along the Kaew Mae Pan Nature Trail. The Center for Wildlife Research at Mahidol University has recorded total of 362 bird species in the park which makes it in numbers the second highest in Thailand after Kaeng Krachan National Park.

Wachirathan Waterfall…….. Wachirathan Waterfall is the first waterfall you come across traveling from the first check-point. Also called Tad Khongyong, this waterfall is about 750 metres above sea level. Pha Mon Kaew, a steep cliff, lies on the opposite side. This waterfall is on the visit list for tour companies due to its ease of access.

Sirithan Waterfall…….. Sirithan Waterfall is a few kilometres further into the park. It is also visited by tour operators but requires some 100 metres of steps to reach it. At the bottom is a viewing platform. This is a small but pleasant enough waterfall about 40 metres high.

Re-check…….. Centrally within the park is a road junction. It seems you can arrive here from two directions but only the one from Chom Thong has a check-point, hence the need for a second checkpoint a little further west. Arriving at the second checkpoint, Katoon restates her intentions, one of which is to visit the chedis on Doi Inthanon. Asked if she has a ticket she explains that she has come in from a different route and offers to tip the officer. He doesn’t accept the offer and waves her though. Obviously now I cannot include this as a recommendation for anyone visiting the park but it looks as if I’ve made it in for free!
From the checkpoint the road further divides, one heading for the next district and the other to the Doi Inthanon peak.
Phra Mahathat Naphamethanidon and Naphapholphumiri…….. The stupas, Phra Mahathat Naphamethanidon and Naphapholphumiri are Buddhist places of worship containing the Lord Buddha’s relics from many sites. The Royal Thai Air Force constructed the stupas in commemoration of Their Majesties the King’s and Queen’s Sixtiest Birthday Anniversaries in 1987 and 1992 respectively.
Arriving at the chedis there is a fee to pay of 40 baht, this time to the Royal Thai Air Force. There is a drop-off point near the chedis, baring in mind most people arrive here by passenger van. The rest park on the roadway below. It is beyond me to assess the religious intent for construction of the chedis other than to mention that they are already a place of pilgrimage for visitors internationally who come to pay tribute to the life of the Buddha. What is really thoughtful are the two escalators installed one for each chedi. Another point of note is the temperature, now at 20 Celcius with cloud swirling around the chedis bringing them into view intermittently. These two beautifully constructed chedis are now surrounded by flower gardens adding to the attraction, however, expectations of glorious views are just too much to expect under the circumstances.

Re-check…….. Arriving at this site near the Doi Inthanon peak is fulfilling, whatever else happens today. I can now boast of my visit here having failed to make it into the park on previous visits to Chiang Mai. However, there is one last twist before return. At the second chedi it starts to rain then soon develops into a full brown thunderstorm. There’s nowhere to go except to remain in the chedi for a good half hour. Finally as the rain eases at around 2pm we can take lunch nearby.
Pan River Rice Terraces…….. The next location is the one Katoon wanted to visit from the start. I guess it was shown in a documentary. However I just can’t locate it on the map until I realise it’s listed only in Thai. Even then there’s no road access that I can see. What follows is a drive around often on dirt tracks but there is some evidence of what Katoon is looking for. The picturesque rice terraces that are more often associated with the Philippines, Indonesia or Vietnam also exist here. But at the end of the hot dry season they are barren and dry. Katoon has simply picked the wrong time of year to come.

This good 30 minute detour hasn’t, however been a total waste of time. Looking back at Doi Inthanon, this is certainly the best direction to appreciate its incredible elevation. It’s time to head back and maybe add a couple more attractions we missed yesterday. However, before long we reach a turning on the left we noted earlier. It seems we haven’t finished with Doi Inthanon National Park quite yet.
Huai Sai Lueang Waterfall…….. The Huai Sai Lueang Waterfall is located a few kilometres along a tarmacked road which is in quite poor condition. However the waterfall is easy to reach just 100 metres or so from the road. It’s a small waterfall on the Sai Lueang river and unlike other waterfalls we visited, seems to be off tour itineraries. I doubt if many people make it here. The spot is totally peaceful and far more fitting for a spell of meditation than many of the temples I visit which are the complete opposite. Katoon however doesn’t concur and wishes to press on.

Mae Pan Waterfall…….. Another river in the park is the Pan. It joins and absorbs the Sai Lueang further west in the park. Arriving at a parking area, it’s not totally deserted. A pick-up truck from the park ranger service is parked up together with a motorbike but there is no sign of humanity. The waterfall is signposted 500 metres away which sounds a bit stiff to me. It could be a 500 metre drop too judging by the terrain. Nevertheless I’m absorbed by the fact that it is the highest waterfall in Chiang Mai province and decide to give it a go but the trail is strewn with fallen trees and is barely a foot wide in places and sometimes disappears altogether. Katoon leads and seems to find a way through but I just can’t manage it these days and have to turn back. Katoon however wishes to press on and I hand her my camera. After about a 15 minute struggle, I’m back at the car park and have an anxious wait. Thankfully she returns in one piece having captured valuable photos. It seems that the last section was really difficult with a ladder missing some rungs. However she reports that the pool at the base of the falls has attracted swimmers. It’s just a pity that the park staff haven’t upgraded this path for visitors. Now, with these waterfalls obviously absorbing some time, there’s little time left now to add anything more. A brief stop at Hill Tribe market stalls on the way back completes the day.

Distraction…….. Back at Chom Thong we head into town looking for food. I’m only interested in a cold beer and perhaps something easy to take back to the room which worked well yesterday but I just know Katoon wants something more substantial and we end up with a hot pot at a restaurant not far from our accommodation. Again Katoon over orders and I just know with this amount of food, I will not have such a comfortable night. In addition. I’ve done nothing on my blog as its the last day of the Premier League season in the UK and the Spanish Grand Prix happening simultaneously. Next Page.