Day 7 - Tuesday 24 November 2015

Something special........Today would seem like just another day on tour but it isn’t. I start the day as usual updating my blog then step out to the market nearby for breakfast pastries. Coffee is free at Bannarin Resort so that sets up a day as yet unplanned. One thing is sure. I’m only 15 minutes drive from one of the most impressive natural sights in Thailand, a site which was planned to be the foundation of this current tour. Quite how impressive this site is, I’m about to find out as I head up to Ratchaprapha Dam. In the grand scheme of things, this is the meat in the sandwich, a delicious helping of natural treasures.
Ratchaprapha Dam........While the choice of location is beyond question, how I manage this part of the tour has not been well thought out and nothing is booked. In fact, it wasn’t my idea to come here. The problem is that as with Koh Tao there’s no advantage in arriving independently by car unless you’re in a group. To explore the lake you need a boat and that’s expensive. I’m hoping today simply to have a look around the dam area and find out what tours are on offer. As my plan is to stay in the area a few days at least, I can set this day aside for the moment.
Reaching the dam proves quite easy. I’m there in no time to start my photographic record. The dam itself and the power generating facilities are surrounded by rolling hills but in the distance there are the karsk limestone crags that the area is famous for. The road to the left traverses the dam wall as far as the Praphaphirom Pavillion, a prominent viewpoint. Thereafter there is no access. This area contains the sluice gates and generating plant and feeds the Phrasaeng River. The road to the right leads to the habour for boats trips across the lake. It’s a convenient place to gather information.

Cause for thought........At the habour there is a tour office, restaurant and gift shop but that’s about all. It’s time to make enquiries. The starting point is a large map of the area but that suggests a multitude of options. There are a number of raft resorts and some take all day to reach, the lake is that vast. The raft huts start from 800 baht per person but that includes meals. You can’t pop out to 7Eleven here. The main cost though is for the boat and whichever way I do the sums the boat to any resort will make the trip very expensive for just two people; nearly three times the normal daily budget. The question becomes, is it worth it to live in the wilderness for a night? I’m sure Katoon has her heart set on it but I’m surprised when she feels it not necessary to stay overnight as long as we take a boat trip around the lake. OK that helps a lot but the total cost of the boat for two and a half hours is still over 2,000 baht bearing in mind I have to pay the park fee of 300 baht. Well we didn’t come to this exotic location to turn round and go back. Today was supposed to be an exploratory trip but instead I find myself on a trip of a lifetime. But first some lunch at the restaurant.
Chiew Lan Lake Tour........At the habour it’s cloudy but at midday there’s no rain so far. The trip will be cool but without sunshine the true colours of the lake and vegetation will not be fully appreciated. The power boat heads across the lake, a craft designed for 20 people. With just two it’s most odd. As we reach the mountains proper the true elegance and natural beauty is overwhelming. The maze of waterways is astonishing, created when the valley was flooded in 1982. The boat glides past sheer cliff faces with vegetation clinging on precariously. The wonder of nature is all around. At one point the boat passed through a gorge and I’m instantly reminded of the ‘clashing rocks’ in Jason and the Argonauts. We manage to get through without the help of the Gods. When the lake opens up again it’s even more stunningly beautiful. Soon we reach the four picture postcard rock stacks appearing like centurions out of the water. We can pause here and take in the scene. Another boat offloads passengers for a swim. I didn’t bring any kit with me which is a pity. There’s no beach here, just 60 metres of water and sheer rock faces. Next we move off across the lake where a collection of raft huts appear. This will be a rest stop. There is a restaurant and toilet. The huts are basic to say the least but that’s the charm of the place. It gives us a glimpse of what life would be like if we took the overnight option. Again I could have jumped into the clear blue green water but instead I just admire the view. Taking a deep breath now and then helps. Around the resort, fish congregate, waiting to be fed with corn by visitors. They’ve conveniently put a board up explaining the fish are tinfoil barbs, native to Thailand’s waterways. The clouds are starting to look threatening but fortunately the boat has a cover. All too soon we head back through the ‘clashing rocks’ and back to the harbour. Amazingly the rain has held off, just. As I head back to the car down it comes! I’m back at Bannarin Resort before 4pm but I now have a lot of thinking to do. What effect has this amazing day had on the rest of the tour?

No clear thinking........It’s important I keep my blog up to date, especially on a day like this but the words just don’t seem to flow. I take a break and look for dinner finding a local restaurant near the market. Back at the resort I study my maps. It’s clear a major objective of the tour today has been achieved and I’m contemplating a major change to the rest of the itinerary. If I can spend a good day tomorrow touring in this area I could be out of Surat Thani Province by dark. I make it an early night figuring my mind will be much clearer in the morning. Next Page.