Day 6 - Monday 23 November 2015

Chumphon departure........Today is another day of travel as I head further south into Surat Thani Province. Chumphon was, of course, just a jumping off point for the island of Koh Tao which is in Surat Thani Province. It’s been a cheap but comfortable night at Pakamas Resort but in the morning there’s no coffee, nothing at all at the resort. I will need to pack and get something on the way out. By the time everything is reorganised after the Koh Tao trip, it’s gone 10am: Then when I stop for some breakfast that adds another hour. In between there are thunderstorms just as yesterday. Finally I get going and head south on highway 41 (AH2) towards Surat Thani. At midday I’m feeling sleepy for some reason and ask Katoon to drive for an hour. That disappears in a flash as I miss it completely. When I wake up it’s time for lunch but first there’s a little excursion as I reach the district of Chaiya.
Wat Phra Borommathat Chaiya Ratcha Worawiharn........ Wat Phra Borommathat Chaiya Ratcha Worawiharn is probably the longest temple name I ever remember writing. It’s nationally famous after it was given royal temple status in 1957. What I know of this temple prior to this visit is that it’s old. An ancient temple was built here dating from the 9th/10th century in Srivijaya (Hindu) style. The present temple has been renovated and is only one of three known to exist of this type. Normally, all that remains of a temple of this age is the brick base with some of the structure at best. It’s a revelation to see one in this condition. Chasing down ancient temples is more in line with what I regularly do on tour but this is the first in this Province. Chaiya is some 40 km north of the provincial capital and is easily reached from highway 41. This temple is on the right hand side just a couple of kilometres heading into Chaiya. I spend a good half hour here dodging the rain. Just opposite is the Chaiya National Museum but oh dear! It’s closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Just as at U Thong on my first tour I’ve failed to pick this up and adjust my itinerary. Such a pity: I would have learnt a lot here. It’s time for lunch of simple noodles.

Chaiya Railway Station........ Chaiya Railway Station is a mainline station on the SRT Southern Line. It’s obvious that if I’m near a railway station I will want to record it in my blog even if there is no activity at present. However, now at around 2.30pm I’m told there is an up train expected around 3.00pm, a service to Chumphon from Hat Yai so I decide to wait. Then just after 3pm when I expect to see one locomotive, I actually see two. A down freight train pulls into the siding just before the up train arrives and waits for clear passage south, remembering that this is only a single track. It's worth the wait. Now I must move on.

More temples........During my activity at the station Katoon has managed to locate more temples but that concerns me. I am running at least an hour late on my schedule but the schedule is only a guide. I’m not working to a railway timetable. If I don’t make it to my final destination today the only inconvenience is repeatedly changing rooms. Fortunately these two temples or more accurately, temple ruins are not far away but they’re along side streets now packed with students leaving a local school.

Wat Lhong……..The first temple located is Wat Lhong. Unlike Wat Phra Borommathat it is in ruin. At some time some of the bricks were used to repair Wat Phra Borommathat. Wat Lhong was registered as an historical place in 1936. It was also built in Srivijaya style, 9th/10th century. Excavations have since uncovered votive tablets, Buddha images and pottery from Longquan in China as well as from the Sukhothai era. Located so near the royal temple indicates the presence of a rich society here in the Dvaravati Period.
Wat Keaw........Wat Keaw, also known as Wat Rattanaram, is just a block away. The chedi here was built of brick without mortar on a square base with 12 redented corners. Each of the four sides has a niche, three of which contain images of the Buddha Subduing Mara. Again this temple was built in Srivijaya style. Now it’s really time to press on.
Ban Ta Khun........Leaving Chaiya at about 4.15pm leaves little time to reach my planned destination before dark, so little room for error. Searching around in the dark for I room is not good for the nerves. However I make good progress to the intersection with highway 401, Surat Thani to Phuket. But it’s not the latter I’m heading for. Well before 5pm I’ve just got to cover about 40 kms. It’s looking better now as I head west into the hills. After 20 minutes those hills become mountains and not of the type more typical of those I see on my travels. These peaks are rugged, not eroded and create an effect of outstanding beauty caused by weathering of the soft limestone rock. It’s what I’ve travelled here to see. Well before 5.30pm I reach the town of Ban Ta Khun. It seems eerily quiet after rain has been hanging around all day. So far I’ve seen plenty of resorts I can use but I prefer to be near shops and restaurants. The first resort I pull into appears to tick all the boxes with great relief. It’s just 100 metres from the main road. Hopefully with a new base established, that will set me up for the next few days. I waste no time in heading out for dinner. Seafood dominates once more with crab omelette and seafood curry. A good day at the office I think and under budget. Next Page.