Day 11, Monday 10 April - Na Klong

Disturbance....... There was a fear last night that I couldn't get any sleep. Bumping and banging in the roof space was quite annoying. The logical explanation for the noise was rats but if they were rats there must have been 22 of them plus subs playing in a football tournament. In the end we survived but there is a long day ahead of us today.
Following the River....... Breakfast taken in the room again has allowed us to get a good start to get out to and explore. Now the Tourism Authority of Thailand website lists only one attraction in Khemarat district but I already know of many more. First, we head west following the Mekong River then contradicting what I said earlier that we had finished our visits in Amnat Charoen province, we briefly enter it again.
Kaeng Hin Kan....... Kaeng Hin Khan or Hin Khan Islet was signposted yesterday on our way to Khemarat and on reflection we should have gone for it; the detour wouldn't have taken long. The attraction is in its name, 'kaeng' is Thai for rapids. However, arriving at the site, while there are some islands exposed in the Mekong River at low water, the views are little more than we've been used to and there is little sign of rapids. Well, at least we've visited another part of the mere 10 km of riverbank along the Mekong that Amnat Charoen has. At least that's something. Not that long ago this province was split off from Ubon Ratchathani, still a large province. From here we return along the riverbank to see what we can find.
Kaeng Chang Mop....... Kaeng Chang Mop, back in in Khemarat district is also a series of rapids more pronounced during high water. Now, tourists are starting to know more about Kaeng Chang Mop which during the Songkran festival every year attracts crowds who come out to swim and have fun. Still, the natural beauty has not been destroyed or deteriorated as at some tourist attractions. In the hot dry season, as it now is, large sections of the riverbed are exposed creating a mini moonscape of eroded sandstone. Presently there are few facilities for tourists, just peace and tranquillity.
Wat Oup Mung....... When you try to Google Wat Oup Mung, no information can be found. This is because it is lost among over 40,000 Buddhist temples in Thailand with only the most popular recorded. Yet we've stumbled on this temple close to the river and found a little gem. There are some features that stand out here. Firstly, there is an attractive preaching hall consisting only of a roof supported by an avenue of tree trunks. Near the river is a 200-year-old Puay tree fondly decorated and revered. But the final attraction for me is the quite common but largely unseen by casual visitors; an ordination ceremony for proud young novices in yellow robes. This ceremony takes place in the ubosot (ordination hall).
Street Art and Wat Nua....... Finally beginning to explore Khemarat town, we locate Wat Nua surrounded by a wall adorned with street art. Once again there is no information in English here that I can find so I must rely on my companion's translation of what she can find out. Time and time again the most valuable source of information is provided by the monks that reside in the temple. Here we are told, is a valuable old jade image kept under lock and key in a small hall and of course there is no inhibition for the monks to show it off. With the door unlocked I get to view the priceless jade image from the Chinese border with Siberia.
Khemarat Old Town....... Khemarat is a border town. It didn't used to be. Prior to the Frano-Siamese war of 1893 much of Laos was under Siamese control. The town's position on the Mekong River ensured that it was an important centre for trade and while the cross-river traffic here is no longer significant, plenty of Chinese and Colonial style buildings still exist in the streets near the river.
A short distance away is the wet market where all sorts of fresh, preserved and pre-cooked foods are available. Here we pick up a tasty selection and I wonder; so early in the day are we going to have a picnic?
Khemarat Clock Tower....... By some standards the Khemarat Clock Tower is modern but unique. Located on a main junction south of the town it can be seen from some distance. Passing the tower, we continue east along the riverbank and into new territory.
Wat Bung Khi Lek....... Wat Bung Khi Lek near the Mekong River is yet another example of something unusual turning up and certainly qualifies as one of Thailand's best kept secrets. The chedi here is of 21st Century modern art design consisting of a golden 7-story tower with a lift. you can use the lift to access six levels each containing religious artifacts. The 6th floor houses the main Buddha image then to reach the 7th floor and the viewing area you need to use the stairs. Once on top you will be rewarded with gorgeous views of the Mekong and beyond. An interesting feature in the temple grounds is the White Buddha Garden consisting of 56 large Buddha images set out symmetrically in rows. The next location should be more natural.
Haad Sai Soong....... Haad Sai Soong is a sandy beach on the banks of the Mekong River. During the rains that start in June the river depth rises and at peak flood carries with it huge amounts of sand and silt. When the waters recede, a large accumulation of sand builds up on the riverbank creating a freshwater beach. During the dry season between March and May this desert like landscape supports temporary food restaurants and although the attraction is popular enough to demand higher prices, dining beside the river with the opportunity to swim in cool water seems irresistible. In a sense you can't blame local people for taking advantage of the situation lasting just 3 months a year. As for us we've no time to laze around today and must move on reaching the next district, Na Tan.
Haad Chom Dao....... Na Tan is a small district but boasts the amazing Haad Chom Dao. Here is a rock formation which is overtopped by the river during high water but becomes accessible during the dry season. Tourists are attracted by the area because of its beautiful shape. Highlights include sunrise and sunset views, as well as stargazing at night. During the dry season the beach consists of fine white sand stretching about 2 km. This is only visible between March and May.
Arriving here I cannot cease to be amazing by the beauty of the river here. It seems that the further I go the more stunning the scenery becomes. We continue further south following the flow of the river as we enter Pho Sai district.
Ban Song Khon....... As we reach Ban Song Khon we head to the riverbank and another viewpoint, the beauty of the landscape continuing to impress. It's here I get my first glimpse of a scene which will never fade from my memory and to take advantage, the riverbank at Ban Song Khon supports boat trips to a location down river for 1,000 baht.
Just a little further on is an area of the riverbank exposed at this time of year containing one Ancient Rain Tree, another attraction.
Haad Salung....... Haad Salung, a short distance away is accessed by another road and consists of more eroded features of the exposed sandstone rocks. To reach the river from here requires a walk of more than 5 minutes but it's here that the Mekong River gets compressed into a narrow channel and it seems as if you can just walk into Laos. With such a natural treasure around me I just wonder whether the final location on my list will live up to its billing.
Sam Phan Bok....... Reaching the end of the road leading to Sam Phan Bok I'm just stunned by what I see ahead. Sam Phan Bok translates as 3,000 potholes. Natural potholes are created when hard pebbles land on the softer sandstone rock and are whisked around by water currents until a substantial hole is carved out. Here at Sam Phan Bok the 'moonscape' is so extensive that to get anywhere near the water you need a pickup truck capable of traversing the rocky terrain. The plus, plus here is that there are enough visitors to share a songtheaw. I soon find the trip 'out of this world' and if ever there was a grand finale to a day this must be it. Here a ridge of sandstone blocked the path of the mighty Mekong River which forced its way through a choke point. Over time these rocks have eroded causing a lunar landscape during the hot dry season.
Isolated....... Clambering around Sam Phan Bok for a good hour which is worth every penny for its stunning beauty has taken us to 5pm and time to find accommodation for the night. However, as with Phana we are nowhere near a larger town and are advised to head for Khong Chiam over and hour away. This is not ideal for resuming where we leave off today. Then, half-way to Khong Chiam we reach Na Pho Klang in Khong Chiam District. There seems to be just one option, Pha Chanadai Resort. It's a bungalow/cabin type like the one we stayed in last night. These resorts tend to be dated and don't best suit my needs. Here they use old style 2 pin sockets, there is lack of workspace and in this case no internet whatsoever. However, it does have one thing in its favour; it enables me to continue where I leave off today.
As expected, there are few conveniences in this village but nearby is a Korean barbecue restaurant and that will do nicely except that it means we will have spent over 10 hours on the go today but what a day it's been.
Next Page.