Day 6, Wednesday 5 April - Mukdahan
Happy Birthday....... With another full day of sightseeing likely, we have no option but to remain in Mukdahan for a third night. However, since I have internet connection problems at Mukdaview hotel we need to change accommodation yet again. After a Thai style breakfast included, we make a start. It's my birthday and I'm trying to balance things out as best I can but there is little left to cover in the city itself and extending my reach will take time. I intend to head south but first there is one attraction in the city within view of the hotel.
Hor Kaeo Mukdahan....... This iconic tower is in Si Bun Rueang sub-district in Mukdahan.
The history of Mueang Mukdahan, the precious antique objects of the Kingdom, and the different clothing worn by the eight tribes of Thai Mukdahan people are collected and exhibited in this 65.5-metre-high tower. Inside the tower’s glass dome, Buddha images for the seven days of the week and that of Phra Buddha Navaming Mongkol Mukdahan are enshrined; the latter being made of a silver/gold mix with a lap width of 20 inches. The peak of Hor Kaeo Mukdahan is decorated with Mukdahan or moonstone beads, one of the nine native gems in Thailand, and stretches about 15 metres up from the viewpoint. Climbing up to the sixth floor and standing on the observation deck, visitors can get a great view overlooking the city of Mukdahan, the Mekong River, Savannakhet Province Laos PDR, and the 2nd Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge.
Unfortunately for me total I'm not going to see those glorious views. The sixth floor is closed for renovation. The best I can achieve is to just to visit the museum on the 1st and 2nd floors which proves most interesting and gather more information about this province. The normal entry fee is 50 baht which has been waived under the circumstances but in any case, entry is free for the over 60s which includes me.
So now after traveling north from the city yesterday, it's time to go south where there are some interesting attractions.
Huai Sing....... Still in the city district, a sign board directs us to Huai Sing on the edge of Phu Pha Thoep National Park. Huai Sing is a small lake, picturesque and peaceful. Here there is a coffee shop for visitors but today there's hardly anyone around except the odd fisherman. Moving further south there are two national parks, and we now head to the most accessible one.
Phu Pha Thoep National Park....... Covering a total area of 48.4 square kilometres in Amphoe Mueang Mukdahan and Amphoe Don Tan, the park’s geography features undulating sandstone mountains that form the edge of the Phu Phan Range. Many of the peaks are between 170-420 metres above sea level, with Phu Chom Si being the highest among them. Deciduous dipterocarp and mixed deciduous forest cover most of the surrounding area. The mountain slopes are dotted with wildflowers in the late rainy season and early winter. Interesting attractions in the park area include Hin Thoep Rocks. Situated within the vicinity of the visitor centre, this is a complex of naturally sculpted rocks caused by erosion from rain, wind, and sun over a period of 95-120 million years. The transformation has caused these rocks to form various shapes, such as cacti, crowns, crocodiles, conch shells and mushrooms.
The entrance fee for this park is 100 baht which is quite reasonable although double the price than for Thai people. To take full advantage of this park you need to follow the nature trail which covers the features already described. Despite it being another very hot day, I make a valiant effort to reach the best views in the park.
The next and last district in Mukdahan province traveling south is Don Tan. Don Tan town is small but does have a couple of interesting features including views of Mekong River here.
Wat Woen Chai Mongkol....... Wat Woen Chai Mongkol, located on the riverbank is an old temple with a three-tiered stone chedi and linked to Pu Naka Srisuttho a Naga (serpent) image.
Wat Matchimawat....... In the museum at Hor Kaeo is a replica of an ancient bronze drum but here at Wat Matchimawat is the original. Historians link it to Guangxi Zhuang which is an autonomous region in southern China. From symbols found embossed on the drum, archaeologists have been able to determine its origin and approximate age. The drum was recovered from the river near here some 80 years ago.
From here we head inland towards Phu Sa Dok Bua National Park and it doesn't look like it's going to be a short day of site visiting as there is much to take in in the southern districts of Mukdahan province. We continue to Nikhon Kham Soi district where there are more natural attractions.
Huai Khilek....... Huai Khilek is a large lake, but its isolation means there is no easy access to view it. However, close by is another natural attraction which means we can enter Phu Sa Dok Bua National Park, a park established in 1992 and covering three provinces.
Phu Mu Forest Park (Pha Rabiang Tawan)....... Pu Mu Forest Park is a beautiful natural attraction of Mukdahan province with a height of 353 metres, with a flat surface on the top of the hill about 4 square kilometres or 2,500 rai. Previously, this area had many wild boars. At the top of the hill, there are cliffs with three viewpoints. Within view are Phu Tham Men, Phu Mai Sang, Phu Phaeng Ma, Phu Noi, Phu Tio, Wat Phu Dan Tae, Phu Phan Mountain, Phu Tham Phra and Loeng Nok Tha District. It also provides a good view of Huai Khilek, the reservoir I mentioned earlier.
Reaching the area of cliffs, we connect with park staff who are only two pleased to assist us. Taking a photograph of these amazing people is a highlight of my day. While there are no longer wild boars in this area it's anything but boring for me.
At this point a bit of common sense trumps my wish for an easier day. We are already some distance from the city and a couple more attractions would avoid the expense of returning and I make the call to extend our reach in Mukdahan province and head for the next district Nong Sung.
Wat Phu Ko Cho (at Banphot Khiri)........ Wat Banphot Khiri is a temple of the Dhammayut Nikaya religious sect. The temple is located on Phu Ko Cho's hilltop which is of substantial size with plenty of natural beauty. The temple was where once Luang Pu La Khemma Pattano who chose to live a life of seclusion under Luang Pu Mun, stayed. The Luang Pu Man group is well-known for very strict Buddhist teaching and preaching of Dhamma to the people. The chedi here dedicated to the life of Luang Pu La Khemma Pattano is relatively recent, a memorial containing exhibits of is worldly possessions.
At the time of my visit, it's already late afternoon. The temple does have a cable car to reach the summit the but it's not in use. It means that the only way to reach the summit of Phu Ko Cho is by steps. It's not what I wanted this time this in the day but nevertheless I decide to make the ascent which very soon seems to contradict my better judgment. As I reach the summit exhausted, my mind has wandered in a rather uncomplimentary direction and I ask myself, 'why on earth did a monk decide to live in solitude on this mosquito infected hilltop?'
Well, it's another box ticked but the time spent at Wat Phu Ko Cho has torpedoed any chance of this being an easy day and now I might as well go the whole hog and take in another district as well. While this won't extend the distance from the city it means that it could be dark before we return to Mukdahan. We next head for the district of Khamchi-i (pronounced kamchyee).
Wat Pa Wiwek Watannaram....... Here at Wat Pa Wiwek Watthanaram or Wat Luang Pu Cham, Luang Pu Cham Mahapunyo was one of the Buddhist masters who strictly adhered to the Dharma and discipline of Vipassana meditation right up until he passed away on 19 January 2013, aged 104 years. Inside the temple is a section displaying his personal history and teachings in a serene ambience. Another distinctive feature is the applied art of Chedi Bu Thong Kitti, a 45-metre-high pagoda with five spires built on a 13-metre square base. The pagoda was constructed in 1987 to contain the relics of the Lord Buddha and his disciples who became Arhats (monks who have gained insight into the true nature of existence and achieved Nirvana); namely, Phra Siwali (Sivali), Phra Uppakhut (Upakut), and Phra Ongkhuliman (Angulimalaya). Grand bathing ceremonies are held on Makha Bucha Day and Visakha Bucha Day every year.
My personal view of this temple is that it's artistically beautiful and aesthetically pleasing so is well worth a visit. However, my companion who insists on looking in every nook and cranny is contributing to push this day to its absolute limits and there's still one more site visit on my list for this town.
Chedi Sitrairattana Nuson (Khun Mae Kaew Nunnery)....... Chedi Sitrairattana Nuson was built in July 2005 and completed in April 2006. Phen Si Makkaranon presided over the inauguration of the pagoda. It was built to commemorate the holy Dharma, the way to escape suffering.
Late for a Date....... The day has been epic so far and it's not far off 6pm which means we will not be back in the city till around 7:00. we have booked a room ahead, but I fear it's a knee jerk reaction. When we arrive, we need assistance to negotiate a narrow passageway leading to the rear of the building. The room rate at Samran Chaikhong Hotel is the most expensive so far this journey at 750 baht but that also includes breakfast. The rate does reflect that this hotel is effectively on the riverbank, but we don't get a room with a view anyway. However, there's no point in labour the point on this special day as we head out for dinner.
Celebration....... Days ago, I decided to go for something special for dinner tonight and go for Nam Nueng (Nem Nướng) the Vietnamese sausage popular in this area. Nam Nueng in restaurants is a rarity for me and dining at VT Nam Nuang (Nem Nướng) proves both cheap and tasty. This is certainly a day I will remember.
Next Page.
Happy Birthday....... With another full day of sightseeing likely, we have no option but to remain in Mukdahan for a third night. However, since I have internet connection problems at Mukdaview hotel we need to change accommodation yet again. After a Thai style breakfast included, we make a start. It's my birthday and I'm trying to balance things out as best I can but there is little left to cover in the city itself and extending my reach will take time. I intend to head south but first there is one attraction in the city within view of the hotel.
Hor Kaeo Mukdahan....... This iconic tower is in Si Bun Rueang sub-district in Mukdahan.
The history of Mueang Mukdahan, the precious antique objects of the Kingdom, and the different clothing worn by the eight tribes of Thai Mukdahan people are collected and exhibited in this 65.5-metre-high tower. Inside the tower’s glass dome, Buddha images for the seven days of the week and that of Phra Buddha Navaming Mongkol Mukdahan are enshrined; the latter being made of a silver/gold mix with a lap width of 20 inches. The peak of Hor Kaeo Mukdahan is decorated with Mukdahan or moonstone beads, one of the nine native gems in Thailand, and stretches about 15 metres up from the viewpoint. Climbing up to the sixth floor and standing on the observation deck, visitors can get a great view overlooking the city of Mukdahan, the Mekong River, Savannakhet Province Laos PDR, and the 2nd Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge.
Unfortunately for me total I'm not going to see those glorious views. The sixth floor is closed for renovation. The best I can achieve is to just to visit the museum on the 1st and 2nd floors which proves most interesting and gather more information about this province. The normal entry fee is 50 baht which has been waived under the circumstances but in any case, entry is free for the over 60s which includes me.
So now after traveling north from the city yesterday, it's time to go south where there are some interesting attractions.
Huai Sing....... Still in the city district, a sign board directs us to Huai Sing on the edge of Phu Pha Thoep National Park. Huai Sing is a small lake, picturesque and peaceful. Here there is a coffee shop for visitors but today there's hardly anyone around except the odd fisherman. Moving further south there are two national parks, and we now head to the most accessible one.
Phu Pha Thoep National Park....... Covering a total area of 48.4 square kilometres in Amphoe Mueang Mukdahan and Amphoe Don Tan, the park’s geography features undulating sandstone mountains that form the edge of the Phu Phan Range. Many of the peaks are between 170-420 metres above sea level, with Phu Chom Si being the highest among them. Deciduous dipterocarp and mixed deciduous forest cover most of the surrounding area. The mountain slopes are dotted with wildflowers in the late rainy season and early winter. Interesting attractions in the park area include Hin Thoep Rocks. Situated within the vicinity of the visitor centre, this is a complex of naturally sculpted rocks caused by erosion from rain, wind, and sun over a period of 95-120 million years. The transformation has caused these rocks to form various shapes, such as cacti, crowns, crocodiles, conch shells and mushrooms.
The entrance fee for this park is 100 baht which is quite reasonable although double the price than for Thai people. To take full advantage of this park you need to follow the nature trail which covers the features already described. Despite it being another very hot day, I make a valiant effort to reach the best views in the park.
The next and last district in Mukdahan province traveling south is Don Tan. Don Tan town is small but does have a couple of interesting features including views of Mekong River here.
Wat Woen Chai Mongkol....... Wat Woen Chai Mongkol, located on the riverbank is an old temple with a three-tiered stone chedi and linked to Pu Naka Srisuttho a Naga (serpent) image.
Wat Matchimawat....... In the museum at Hor Kaeo is a replica of an ancient bronze drum but here at Wat Matchimawat is the original. Historians link it to Guangxi Zhuang which is an autonomous region in southern China. From symbols found embossed on the drum, archaeologists have been able to determine its origin and approximate age. The drum was recovered from the river near here some 80 years ago.
From here we head inland towards Phu Sa Dok Bua National Park and it doesn't look like it's going to be a short day of site visiting as there is much to take in in the southern districts of Mukdahan province. We continue to Nikhon Kham Soi district where there are more natural attractions.
Huai Khilek....... Huai Khilek is a large lake, but its isolation means there is no easy access to view it. However, close by is another natural attraction which means we can enter Phu Sa Dok Bua National Park, a park established in 1992 and covering three provinces.
Phu Mu Forest Park (Pha Rabiang Tawan)....... Pu Mu Forest Park is a beautiful natural attraction of Mukdahan province with a height of 353 metres, with a flat surface on the top of the hill about 4 square kilometres or 2,500 rai. Previously, this area had many wild boars. At the top of the hill, there are cliffs with three viewpoints. Within view are Phu Tham Men, Phu Mai Sang, Phu Phaeng Ma, Phu Noi, Phu Tio, Wat Phu Dan Tae, Phu Phan Mountain, Phu Tham Phra and Loeng Nok Tha District. It also provides a good view of Huai Khilek, the reservoir I mentioned earlier.
Reaching the area of cliffs, we connect with park staff who are only two pleased to assist us. Taking a photograph of these amazing people is a highlight of my day. While there are no longer wild boars in this area it's anything but boring for me.
At this point a bit of common sense trumps my wish for an easier day. We are already some distance from the city and a couple more attractions would avoid the expense of returning and I make the call to extend our reach in Mukdahan province and head for the next district Nong Sung.
Wat Phu Ko Cho (at Banphot Khiri)........ Wat Banphot Khiri is a temple of the Dhammayut Nikaya religious sect. The temple is located on Phu Ko Cho's hilltop which is of substantial size with plenty of natural beauty. The temple was where once Luang Pu La Khemma Pattano who chose to live a life of seclusion under Luang Pu Mun, stayed. The Luang Pu Man group is well-known for very strict Buddhist teaching and preaching of Dhamma to the people. The chedi here dedicated to the life of Luang Pu La Khemma Pattano is relatively recent, a memorial containing exhibits of is worldly possessions.
At the time of my visit, it's already late afternoon. The temple does have a cable car to reach the summit the but it's not in use. It means that the only way to reach the summit of Phu Ko Cho is by steps. It's not what I wanted this time this in the day but nevertheless I decide to make the ascent which very soon seems to contradict my better judgment. As I reach the summit exhausted, my mind has wandered in a rather uncomplimentary direction and I ask myself, 'why on earth did a monk decide to live in solitude on this mosquito infected hilltop?'
Well, it's another box ticked but the time spent at Wat Phu Ko Cho has torpedoed any chance of this being an easy day and now I might as well go the whole hog and take in another district as well. While this won't extend the distance from the city it means that it could be dark before we return to Mukdahan. We next head for the district of Khamchi-i (pronounced kamchyee).
Wat Pa Wiwek Watannaram....... Here at Wat Pa Wiwek Watthanaram or Wat Luang Pu Cham, Luang Pu Cham Mahapunyo was one of the Buddhist masters who strictly adhered to the Dharma and discipline of Vipassana meditation right up until he passed away on 19 January 2013, aged 104 years. Inside the temple is a section displaying his personal history and teachings in a serene ambience. Another distinctive feature is the applied art of Chedi Bu Thong Kitti, a 45-metre-high pagoda with five spires built on a 13-metre square base. The pagoda was constructed in 1987 to contain the relics of the Lord Buddha and his disciples who became Arhats (monks who have gained insight into the true nature of existence and achieved Nirvana); namely, Phra Siwali (Sivali), Phra Uppakhut (Upakut), and Phra Ongkhuliman (Angulimalaya). Grand bathing ceremonies are held on Makha Bucha Day and Visakha Bucha Day every year.
My personal view of this temple is that it's artistically beautiful and aesthetically pleasing so is well worth a visit. However, my companion who insists on looking in every nook and cranny is contributing to push this day to its absolute limits and there's still one more site visit on my list for this town.
Chedi Sitrairattana Nuson (Khun Mae Kaew Nunnery)....... Chedi Sitrairattana Nuson was built in July 2005 and completed in April 2006. Phen Si Makkaranon presided over the inauguration of the pagoda. It was built to commemorate the holy Dharma, the way to escape suffering.
Late for a Date....... The day has been epic so far and it's not far off 6pm which means we will not be back in the city till around 7:00. we have booked a room ahead, but I fear it's a knee jerk reaction. When we arrive, we need assistance to negotiate a narrow passageway leading to the rear of the building. The room rate at Samran Chaikhong Hotel is the most expensive so far this journey at 750 baht but that also includes breakfast. The rate does reflect that this hotel is effectively on the riverbank, but we don't get a room with a view anyway. However, there's no point in labour the point on this special day as we head out for dinner.
Celebration....... Days ago, I decided to go for something special for dinner tonight and go for Nam Nueng (Nem Nướng) the Vietnamese sausage popular in this area. Nam Nueng in restaurants is a rarity for me and dining at VT Nam Nuang (Nem Nướng) proves both cheap and tasty. This is certainly a day I will remember.
Next Page.
Mukdahan Province
Hor Kaeo Mukdahan, Mueang Mukdahan
Huai Sing, Na Si Nuan,
Mueang Mukdahan District
Phu Pha Thoep National Park,
Mueang Mukdahan District
Mekong River in Don Tan District
Wat Woen Chai Mongkol,
Don Tan, Don Tan District
Don Tan Riverside Viewpoint,
Don Tan, Don Tan District
Wat Matchimawat, Don Tan, Don Tan District
Huai Khilek, Na Kok,
Nikhom Kham Soi District
Phu Mu Forest Park, Nikhom Kham Soi, Nikhom Kham Soi District
Wat Phu Ko Cho (Wat Banphot Khiri),
Nong Sung Tai, Nong Sung District
Wat Pa Wiwek Watannaram,
Khamcha-i, Khamcha-i District
Chedi Sitrairattana Nuson (Khun Mae Kaew Nunnery), Khamcha-i, Khamcha-i District
VT Nam Nuang Restaurant,
Mueang Mukdahan