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Day 5, Tuesday 7 October
A second day in Ankara greets us as we look forward to that amazing breakfast. Just to recap, the locations in the second section of my tour were chosen by dear Katoon and I have tried my best to draw up an itinerary to meet her needs. The first couple of sites yesterday where the most obvious in Ankara to visit. Today other sites are less so obvious but the aim is to start where we left off yesterday; but could we do this without relying too much on taxis? As we set out the weather has improved and the sun reappears bringing the temperature up into the high teens. We decide to take the ten-minute walk to the nearest metro station as has been suggested at the Demora Hotel. However, despite multiple enquiries getting different answers we find someone who speaks English. At least we get a positive outcome which rules out using the metro. That leaves the buses or taxis. We decide to use the latter to save time which renders our previous effort rather pointless.
Ankara Castle…….. Ankara Castle (Turkish: Ankara Kalesi) is a fortification from the late antique/early medieval era. Arriving at Ankara Castle we first notice modern buildings in traditional style lining cobbled streets leading to the castle. Most function as souvenir shops. Close to the castle however, there is evidence of decay with crumbling buildings, their occupants clinging onto survival. This is the first sign of life as it existed under the Ottomans. As I walk around the castle walls, I note that there has been substantial renovation here but in a way that preserves the fabric of the building but not its history. The way the walls have been constructed using any materials available goes against the principles of archaeological research. Why for example would you take huge stone block with Roman inscriptions and place it upside down or at right angles in the wall?
Reaching the castle, we see a courtyard where musicians are playing traditional music. Katoon is in her element climbing over the ramparts without any safety barrier at all edging walkways from a sheer drop on all sides. No health and safety here! The one positive is that it’s free to enter but by their own admission the authorities just don’t know exactly the origins of this castle.
The castle is composed of an inner line of walls with closely spaced towers that encloses an area of about 350m by 150m, and an outer line of walls with towers some 40m apart. Both set of walls were constructed using large quantities of reused masonry. The exact date of their construction is uncertain, but both postdate the capture and destruction of Ankara by the Persians in probably 622. Foss considers that the inner walls may date from the reign of Constans II. The outer walls are generally believed to have been constructed slightly later.
For much of the time the city was clearly the size of a small town even in Roman times. What you do see of Ankara from the citadel is a city built in the last 100 years since Ataturk moved his headquarters here and created the National Assembly in 1923. From this perspective, a visit to Ankara castle is well worth the effort if only for the views alone.
A second day in Ankara greets us as we look forward to that amazing breakfast. Just to recap, the locations in the second section of my tour were chosen by dear Katoon and I have tried my best to draw up an itinerary to meet her needs. The first couple of sites yesterday where the most obvious in Ankara to visit. Today other sites are less so obvious but the aim is to start where we left off yesterday; but could we do this without relying too much on taxis? As we set out the weather has improved and the sun reappears bringing the temperature up into the high teens. We decide to take the ten-minute walk to the nearest metro station as has been suggested at the Demora Hotel. However, despite multiple enquiries getting different answers we find someone who speaks English. At least we get a positive outcome which rules out using the metro. That leaves the buses or taxis. We decide to use the latter to save time which renders our previous effort rather pointless.
Ankara Castle…….. Ankara Castle (Turkish: Ankara Kalesi) is a fortification from the late antique/early medieval era. Arriving at Ankara Castle we first notice modern buildings in traditional style lining cobbled streets leading to the castle. Most function as souvenir shops. Close to the castle however, there is evidence of decay with crumbling buildings, their occupants clinging onto survival. This is the first sign of life as it existed under the Ottomans. As I walk around the castle walls, I note that there has been substantial renovation here but in a way that preserves the fabric of the building but not its history. The way the walls have been constructed using any materials available goes against the principles of archaeological research. Why for example would you take huge stone block with Roman inscriptions and place it upside down or at right angles in the wall?
Reaching the castle, we see a courtyard where musicians are playing traditional music. Katoon is in her element climbing over the ramparts without any safety barrier at all edging walkways from a sheer drop on all sides. No health and safety here! The one positive is that it’s free to enter but by their own admission the authorities just don’t know exactly the origins of this castle.
The castle is composed of an inner line of walls with closely spaced towers that encloses an area of about 350m by 150m, and an outer line of walls with towers some 40m apart. Both set of walls were constructed using large quantities of reused masonry. The exact date of their construction is uncertain, but both postdate the capture and destruction of Ankara by the Persians in probably 622. Foss considers that the inner walls may date from the reign of Constans II. The outer walls are generally believed to have been constructed slightly later.
For much of the time the city was clearly the size of a small town even in Roman times. What you do see of Ankara from the citadel is a city built in the last 100 years since Ataturk moved his headquarters here and created the National Assembly in 1923. From this perspective, a visit to Ankara castle is well worth the effort if only for the views alone.
Ankara Castle, Ankara
Roman Occupation……..
From the maps we have obtained there are a number of sites that denote Roman occupation. There is the Roman theatre but try as we might, we just can’t find it when all the time it was right under our noses. The photographs have deceived us. It’s far smaller than suggested, located at the base of the hill on which the citadel stands.
L-R - Roman Theatre, Mounted Ataturk Monument, Ankara City
Searching……..
With another late morning start today not a great deal will get done but I start to believe what has been suggested to me all along that there is not too much to see in Ankara per se. If I scratch off the list, mosques, shopping centres and hotels we are left with only a few ancient sites of minor importance and some other museums. I just wonder how many people that come to Turkey actually visit Ankara.
By mid-afternoon we take an inexpensive lunch, Katoon sticking to her diet of chicken, a safe bet for her. I start to become more familiar with the various Turkish dishes but fish dishes are rare compared with nearer the coast.
Heading back past the Ataturk monument to get more photos, I next locate one of those other museums.
The Independence War Museum…….. The Independence War Museum is small; you will cover it in 15 minutes and there is no information in English. However, it has a special place in Turkish history. The long rectangular building has interesting architecture and consists of a long passageway separating galleries on left and right. In the centre is the larger room with a pulpit. Desks that would not look out of place in the classroom, face inwards towards the centre. Various paintings in the passageway include one showing a meeting of the National Council. This is clearly where Ataturk set up his first administration. Various exhibits are displayed in other rooms clearly contemporary with the 1920s. A few examples of vintage communication equipment are on display and there are a number of weapons including three world War I machine guns, one of which is a Vickers .303. Several Mauser rifles are also on display with Turkish official markings on the but face.
By mid-afternoon we take an inexpensive lunch, Katoon sticking to her diet of chicken, a safe bet for her. I start to become more familiar with the various Turkish dishes but fish dishes are rare compared with nearer the coast.
Heading back past the Ataturk monument to get more photos, I next locate one of those other museums.
The Independence War Museum…….. The Independence War Museum is small; you will cover it in 15 minutes and there is no information in English. However, it has a special place in Turkish history. The long rectangular building has interesting architecture and consists of a long passageway separating galleries on left and right. In the centre is the larger room with a pulpit. Desks that would not look out of place in the classroom, face inwards towards the centre. Various paintings in the passageway include one showing a meeting of the National Council. This is clearly where Ataturk set up his first administration. Various exhibits are displayed in other rooms clearly contemporary with the 1920s. A few examples of vintage communication equipment are on display and there are a number of weapons including three world War I machine guns, one of which is a Vickers .303. Several Mauser rifles are also on display with Turkish official markings on the but face.
Independence War Museum (left), Ankara City
Ankara Tour Complete……..
Moving into later afternoon, I wonder what else can be covered that will expand my knowledge but conclude that not too much more can be achieved in and around this city with our limited knowledge: Most of the interest could be covered in a single day. We head back to the Demora Hotel by taxi. For a short stay, using the taxis seems to be the best option. Today though, has been easy on my budget. We finish up with a lazy evening. Our next destination tomorrow should prove quite interesting. Next Page.