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WESTERN PROVINCES TOUR (15A) - 8 to 16 March 2015

Monuments at Ban Khu Bua Ancient Town, Ratchaburi Province


Day 4 - Wednesday 11 March 2015

Triple Resort……..Triple Resort has provided me with a comfortable night I’m pleased to report but it was not their fault I turned in late and woke at the usual time. The rooms are quite spacious; in fact it’s quite a trek to the washroom. My accommodation reviews are based on the availability of aircon, hot shower, fridge, wifi and desk space to work. Of these, Triple Resort ticks all the boxes except that I have some problem with the internet connection and as regards a hot shower; the tank fed hot water system delivers only luke-warm water. However on the plus side breakfast included is a plus which is missing most of the time. Regarding the later, I wondered what they would provide; surely not the same as Whale Hotel in Nakhom Pathom. Correct! There is nothing ‘buffet’ about it. Even coffee cups and plate sets are lined up with powdered milk and coffee. The pre-ordered food fare consists of Thai or Western but the Thai looks more filling. There are no other observations really and all in all it passes the test.

Triple Resort, Ratchaburi

Ratanakosin Water Jar Factory…….. I manage an earlier start and head into the city of Ratchaburi, 4 kms further along Highway 4. The site list for today is still evolving but very soon I’m requested to stop at a factory outlet producing pottery. With an amazing choice of products on display for sale at the front of the facility, at first I fail to appreciate that just behind the outlet is the production facility itself. There is no restriction on just walking around to view the manufacturing process. What is most surprising is the sheer volume of pottery products in process. The Ratanakosin Water Jar Factory which was established in 1972 now extends to 35,200 sq. metres and is responsible for the production of the famous dragon pattern water jar which is a signature product of Ratchaburi Province. As I don’t need a water jar I press on into Ratchaburi itself.


Ratanakosin Water Jar Factory, Ratchaburi

Ratchaburi Railway Station……..I cross over the railway line and bare left following its path until I reach the main station. Yes, Ratchaburi is also on the southern line and a magnet to me. On this occasion there is some activity to record but there’s also another reason for heading for the station. It’s the simple fact that it gives me a point of reference in a strange city and invariably there is a town map right outside the station. At this point I have just a couple of sites on my wish list but a careful study of the map results in additions to that list. I’m always interested in historical sites and temples are a good place to start. I’m also guided by site photographs which accompany the map to make decisions. The perpetual problem I have is always time. I know of no situation on tour where I’m not obliged to leave something out.

Ratchburi Railway Station, Ratchaburi

Ban Khu Bua Ancient Town……..The first site added to my original list is Ban Khu Bua Ancient Town which lies to the south of Ratchaburi city. I make my way to the village and temple but where are the ruins? A little further on I’m told. The first structure soon appears but it’s only a brick base with no upper structure. This only conveys its ancient origins but I’m still no wiser at this stage. However there are other sites in the area as indicated on a board. I head along another route and locate another temple, Wat Klong, a few kilometres away. This site proves much more informative and the ruin larger. The information board confirms the ruin dates back to the Dvaravati period (6th-9th century at its height) before Siam was a unified country. The existence of a site reference code clearly suggests there are more structures around and I’m directed to another site. However this proves no larger but at each site I’m told of yet another. I’ve no blueprint to work with but it’s become plain fully obvious that the ancient city was quite extensive. After visiting half a dozen sites, I give up the wild goose chase and figure there is not much more to gain and could compromise an already full day. I head back to the city.




Monuments 8, 18 and others at Ban Khu Bua Ancient Town, Ratchaburi

Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat……..Although the journey around country roads has been a more pleasant experience, it’s back to the city. The urban touring is hard work which has dominated the tour so far. However the next site is important but having struggled through the streets to find it, it’s time for a snack I picked up at the railway station. Located on the west bank of the Mae Klong River, Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat is an ancient temple, locally called Wat Na Phra That. Its elegant prangs or pagoda remains in good condition and was probably copied from Cambodia's Angkor Wat. There are a number of signboards in English that refer to the structural elements and put this ancient temple into an historical context. It’s now approaching mid-afternoon and of course very hot. I figure the next destination will give me some relief.



Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat, Ratchaburi

Ratchaburi National Museum…….. I make my way further around the city in search of the Ratchaburi National Museum. This is similarly located on the west bank of the Mae Klong River, a short walk from the river bank in Wordit Road. The museum was officially opened in 1991. The exhibition building consists of exhibition halls in a square around a courtyard. The halls are laid out as follows. 1 Geography and geology of Ratchaburi. 2 History and archeology of Ratchaburi in five sections; Prehistoric, Dvaravati Culture, Khmer Influence, Sukhothai-Thonburi Period and Rattanakosin Period. 3 Ethnic Groups. 4 Distinctive Heritage of Ratchburi in three sections. 5 Ratchburi Today. I have to admit this museum, as with other national museums is most informative and puts into context many other sites encountered in the area. It’s hard to complete any tour of the area without a visit to this museum. However the building isn’t air-conditioned as I expected and wiriness is starting to take over. My attempt to cram into one full day what Ratchaburi has to offer is a tall order but at 4pm if I can add one more site today then I just might be content with my achievements.



Ratchaburi National Museum, Ratchaburi

Khao Wang……..As I head broadly west out of the city a couple of small hills appear, just off the main road. Khao Wang is a hill that is about 44 metres high and was originally called "Khao Sattanat". King Rama V ordered a palace to be built on the summit to receive the Portuguese minister in 1887. King Rama VII donated the palace to the monastery and the palace was renamed Wat Khao Wang. Today it is still in need of renovation which is ongoing. The site is worth a visit on account of the views alone over Ratchaburi. At 5pm the days touring must now end and with at least an hour of daylight left I continue west out of the city.


Wat Khao Wang, Ratchaburi

Suan Pheung……..Suan Peung is a district of Ratchaburi Province and a town some 55 kms west of Ratchaburi city. Unlike anything I’ve yet experienced this tour Suan Peung is rural with mountain views and a peaceful destination for tourists. I head along Highway 3208 and the ambiance soon changes to suite. Traffic is light and the road wide; a pleasure to drive along. I’m starting to strip the load of intense touring hoping to reach Suan Peung before dark. As it proves that is easily attainable but despite the large number of resorts that are signposted in the area it is harder to find something reasonably priced. It reminds me of the situation at Khao Kho, Petchabun Province. I forget how many resorts I enquired at. Was it five or six? As well as price I really needed to be near the town which is far from urban with a wide carriageway hardly congested. I find suitable accommodation at Ban Homlamoon. By the time I settle in its gone 7pm. Refreshed, I jump in the car and head into town. I don’t get very far as in a distance I could have easily walked I stop for dinner. The late proceedings today ensure that my blog will not be up to date by close of play but then all being well tomorrow will be a rest day as I have paid up for two nights in Suan hPeung. Next Page.