Day 11, Monday 17 October

Restrictions.......Arriving in Satun gives us chance to recover and take stock. My companion decides to do some housekeeping while on holiday but I consider leaving to have a look around our new home at gone 10.30am is leaving things a bit tight. There are many attractions in La Ngu district but instead we head north, back the way we came yesterday. Due to heavy rain, we were not able to complete any visits on our arrival in Satun province despite there being some important sites in the jagged limestone mountains near the provincial border with Trang province.
Urai Thong Cave.......Our first attraction is a good example of how important internationally this area is. The cave at Urai Thong is just one cave in the Satun Geopark, the only UNESCO geopark in Thailand. The great thing about this cave is that you can drive straight up to the entrance where there is a sufficient number of pictograms dealing with geology and natural habitat. Initially you enter the cave at the ground level but right now the floor is under water which is why they've built a concrete walkway through the cave. This is a fascination in itself but the cavern emerges into sunlight leading one to wonder how these cave systems were formed. Finding ourselves now at the rear of the cave we soon realise that there are different chambers within the cave. I would normally expect to go down into a cave but in this case it's up via a well-constructed staircase but you need to be careful as sections of the staircase are in darkness. Using the torch on your phone is useful here. The staircase twists and turns but takes you through the various levels until the last (upper) one is reached. Here there is a glorious view of the surrounding countryside.
Rawai Beach.......As cave systems go Satun Geopark is a prime location for visitors. We next head to Rawai Beach on the coast but it's no match for its namesake in Phuket: Unattractive and strewn with debris. At least we locate an excellent local restaurant serving cheap and wholesome food. In this area the low land dominated by mangrove and klongs is difficult to reach by road, many areas cut of from the mainland leaving boats as the main source of transport. Some bridges do exist for example Sapan Dugang which connects to Laem Son but there are construction works planned to connect these isolated areas.
Satun Geopark Museum.......The next destination is the headquarters of the geopark itself which also houses an ancient elephant museum but according to Google the museum is temporarily closed. This is confirmed at the HQ building and we're directed to a temporary information centre consisting mainly of pictograms. Much of the work of the centre involves research and recording what is found in the area especially in the cave systems. We then get a stroke of luck as an official allows us into the museum building where they are putting the finishing touches after renovation. We are then given a sneak preview by the official
Ancient Dinosaur Museum.......The Ancient Dinosaur museum is small consisting mainly of information boards but there are also some fossils here. The story of the development of the elephant from early small long-nosed creatures through to the mighty stegadons with their huge tusks and on to modern-day elephants is well told. Information on the round-up and training of elephants and their adoption by kings and use in war is also given. As regards fossils, these have been collected from the surrounding area especially at Tham La Stedagon. The prize exhibits are the remains of the stedagon and of rhino but there are fossils here from every epoch right back to the time of the trilobites. I'm glad things worked out well here and our time was not waisted.
Ban Ta Oi Viewpoint.......We return to the coast and head to a viewpoint know as Ban Ta Oi. Here there are gorgeous views across the Ya Ra River which divides Trang and Satun provinces. Thailand's appetite for building new structures never ceases to amaze me and here they are rebuilding the sea-wall with new a new pavilion and promenade so that people like me can come and say, 'this is amazing'.
Tham La Stedagon.......Tham La Stedagon is an important site where stedagon remains have been found as well as a good selection of fossils, which have been researched and cataloged at the Satun Geopark Centre. The finds have undoubtedly influenced UNESCO in granting it international status. The cave system here is an attraction in itself but cannot be accessed at low tides. Guided tours are arranged by booking in advance. The cave is accessed by kayak only and special equipment is needed. At the time of our visit, it's not high tide but we can view the cave entrance and judging by the amount of floodwater passing through it, it would probably not be safe anyway.
Khao Ting Cave.......Khao Ting Cave is some 10 kilometres north of Tham La Stedagon and is actually in Trang province. A turning to the left provides access to view the cave but unlike the last, here we view raging waters exiting the cave. It provides a good insight as to how caverns are formed by carbon in rainwater reacting with the relatively soft limestone rock. It's another good photo opportunity. Not that far further on there is another cave. Will this one be similar?
Tan Krachai Waterfall is accessed along a concrete road turning off to the right of highway 416. However, the last kilometre is just a dirt road. As there is no indication that this waterfall is significance we decide to turn back. We've pushed our Toyota Vios to the limits. It's just not designed for this work.
Tharn Pliew Waterfall.......We start our journey back to Pak Bara Beach and there is one more opportunity to visit a waterfall further to the east of Thung Wa district. Tharn Pliew Waterfall seems to be much more significant as we head into the forest leading off the 416. It's about a 10-minute drive to reach it. It's getting late in the afternoon so this definitely has to be our last visit of the day. Thankfully this waterfall requires little walking to reach it. I can see the raging waters as we park up. Impressive is the concrete walkway that has been constructed to view the falls. Is I pass over the raging torrent of water beneath cascading in every direction, the main waterfall comes into view and what a mighty sight it is too. Many a waterfall have I visited of substantial height, clear water cascading into a pool below but this one conveys in no uncertain terms the shear power of water after continuous rain. This trip today has ended just as it started with a magnificent natural spectacle but with a late start it's going to be a late finish. There will be no sunset on Pak Bara Beach tonight despite a relatively clear sky.
La Ngu.......On the way back we stop in La Ngu to buy food for the evening and for tomorrow's breakfast. It will be dark arriving at Green Hill Resort. Our first full day in Satun province has been excellent but there is still much to do here. I have to carefully manage the time to ensure we're back in Bangkok in five days' time.
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