Thursday 10 October

Three Pagodas Pass..... This morning breakfast arrangements are the same as yesterday's, a quick visit to 7-Eleven. As I reflect on the unfortunate damage to my computer, I am comforted by the fact that this trip is otherwise coming in well under budget without compromising my itinerary. The day promises to be kind with hazy sunshine developing. It could be unique as there is just one venue on my list for today and it seems an important one.
Three Pagodas Pass is historically significant, straddling the border with Myanmar. This 32 kilometre ride will take an hour along mountain roads. According to the guides it should be possible to cross the border for a $10 fee and by giving up one's passport. I have $10 which I obtained in Bangkok, but my passport is still held against rental of the motorbike. As the situation at the border is subject to change I don't know what to expect. I'm away by 10 am and make my way out of Sangkhlaburi on the 323. I'm surprised at the good condition of this highway, so far from the capital and with little traffic it's a pleasurable ride. Noting a few possible stopovers on the way back, I press on. There is the inevitable Jam Ruat Chai Dan checkpoint (Thai border police) but they wave me through with casual amusement. Finally, the settlement at Three Pagodas Pass comes into view. It just seems like any other Thai village except that there is a cluster of buildings off to the right indicating that this is the border post but with no officials in sight and seemingly no traffic passing across the border. The only activity there is, is centered around the border market on the Thai side. I soon find out that the crossing is closed to foreigners but open to Thais who apparently see no reason to cross the border anyway. There appears to be nothing for them there. A few restaurants and souvenir shops cater for those who make it up here, but this border crossing is no substitute for the crossing at Mae Sot, Tak Province. There are however, a few reminders of recent history here which will be covered in more detail later.
Natural Attractions..... After browsing around the site I settle for a bowl of noodles. It's just midday and I hadn't expected to be returning so soon. Perhaps some of the sites I noticed on the way here will absorb some time. Just a few kilometres away is a sign to Keaw Savan Bandan Cave: Hardly high profile but I decide to give it a go. Here one kilometre along a track is a temple set at the entrance to the cave, a setting not unusual in Thailand. The Buddha image and ubosot (prayer hall) seem out of all proportion to community needs.
Other than a few houses, the area seems deserted for miles around. After a climb up to the cave entrance to take photos I return along the 323. At the 19 kilometre post from Sangkhlaburi is a turning to Ta Khian Thong Waterfall. The distance from the main road is about 7 kilometres and the approach road seems little used and quite overgrown in places. It's worth a look or so I thought. However, arriving at the entrance to the park I find the booth closed. Normal park fees of 200 baht for foreigners would normally apply. I do proceed inside, but the ground is waterlogged and the pathways overgrown with jungle foliage. Again that's as far as I can go.
Songkalia River..... About 12 kilometres out there is a concrete bridge across the headwaters of the Songkalia River. I pause here amused by the accumulation of children playing in the river. Although fast flowing in places they seem to know what they are doing and having great fun. I'm inclined to join them and take a paddle.
Other Business..... Well, that seems to be it: Hardly a full day as I head back to rest until dark. For dinner, I have a rather tasty Penang curry and fried vegetables, but my attention turns to itching of my right leg that has given me trouble before. It's quite red and swollen again so I take the precaution of attending the hospital just around the corner. They give me some antibiotics and allergy pills, the latter causing some drowsiness coming with instructions not to drive. But I do need to take the motorbike back and I'm in for another surprise. The Blue Rock bar is closed. Apparently the English owner is away in Bangkok and the skeleton staff have closed it through lack of business. Obviously disturbed by this, I return to Tongtawan. It's possible the bar won't open till late tomorrow and they have my passport. There was no paperwork and I don't have a number to call. Fortunately they've left a contact number at reception. A quick call and my worries are over. I can now write up my notes and prepare for the trip back to Bangkok in the morning.
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