Day 2, Tuesday 8th October - Sangkhlaburi

Precipitation..... I awake to the sound of yet more rain. Last night a news channel reported the arrival of another tropical storm heading into Eastern Thailand an area already suffering from flooding. While that doesn't immediately affect me here, the threat of rain is never far away and I'm wondering what the day will bring. I also wonder if there will be anything to report here by the end of the day but needn't have worried on either score. I accept the offer I had yesterday to use the microwave in the office and boil some water. Add that to 3 in 1 coffee and snacks bought yesterday and breakfast is sorted, but it's still raining. The 8 am departure I thought might be possible looks like it's doomed but by 8.30am the rain has stopped and I proceed to the bus station on foot and in time for the 9 am departure from Kanchanaburi.
Departure for Sangkhlaburi..... As is usual in Thailand, I am asked for my destination on arrival and quickly directed to the stand where I already know the slow bus will depart even though there are other options. I'm happy with this choice, however. According to the travel guides this offers the best view of the scenery particularly around the Khao Laem Dam, officially named the Vachiralongkon Dam. Just to mention that this route is operated by a private company but under government regulations. This service bus is among a breed that has stood the test of time, often brightly painted but showing age. As I will find out, it still has plenty of grunt through the mountain roads though. The weather looks brighter, the roads now practically dry. The bus is almost full, but I'm in good spirits now looking forward to the trip. A couple of passengers suggest that there are better options for me, but I am happy with my choice. This transport option also affords the option to experience real Thailand and as is often the case some characters appear to ensure this day won't be boring. A young man seemingly drunk makes his presence felt complaining he cannot adjust the windows in this non-air conditioned bus. He wants a seat by himself and eventually gets his way by evicting frightened young women from their seats much to the annoyance of the conductor. Just when my hackles are rising should he come near me, he gets off the bus still in the main street of Kanchanaburi. An old man sits opposite determined to have a smoke despite a government imposed no smoking policy incurring a fine of 5,000 baht. He's clearly aware of this as he does his best, not very cunningly, to disguise the fact: Interesting start. As is normal with rural bus services, the bus will stop for any passenger who flags it down. At 9.30 am it has hardly left the suburbs but as it does so, the cloud base is visibly lifting and the mountain scenery in full view.
On previous visits I've never ventured too far from the town except for the train journey to Nam Tok Station, the end of the line. This bus journey will pass some of the tourist sites travelers venture to see when visiting Kanchanaburi. I feel regret that these are not yet part of my experiences. The Tiger Temple to the right, The caves at Kra Sae also a viewpoint on the death railway to the left, the village of Sai Yok, a tourist base, Hellfire Pass now 80 kilometres out of the city, all out of bounds for me today.
Around midday the sun makes a brave attempt at an appearance and rain doesn't threaten. While passengers come and go, the compliment of this 60 seater is thinning, allowing more viewing options. Inevitably there is a rest stop. Most of the passengers depart at Thong Pha Phum and the driver and conductor take a meal break; welcome for me too. It's 1 pm. There seems no hurry over this, but eventually a few more passengers are picked up in the town and the bus continues on to Sangkhlaburi about 65 kilometres away. As mentioned, this leg takes in the mighty Khao Laem Dam. For a while there are only tree-lined roads but the vast waters soon appear. This spectacle provides interest for much of the remainder of the journey while the terrain gets progressively more rugged until finally the bus clears a pass and drops downs into Sangkhlaburi.
Tongtawan, Sangkhlaburi..... Armed with a few places to stay, I reject assistance from motorcycle riders and make my way on foot down towards the river. Here most of the resorts are found. The resort that springs to mind is Burmese Inn. I head in the that direction but don't make it that far. I inquire at a resort on my right named Tongtawan run by a Thai family. I haven't located it on any tour guide, but it is next to Weave for Women which is listed. It does appear cheaper than Burmese Inn but does it tick all the boxes? Well No! There is no fridge and probably no internet connection. Huts and chalets are precariously perched on the sides of a narrow tributary that feeds into the river below but certainly looks the part. The question is can I manage without the internet in the room? I can connect near the office when necessary and as I have my trusty flask with me, I can store cold water in that. I set myself up for three nights.
In order to get my bearings I proceed further down the road. There has been an accident with a car firmly installed in a neighbour's garden attracting some attention. Further along a six-a-side football tournament is in progress. However I'm still not happy without independent transport. Ideally, I need a motorbike for 2 days starting in the morning, but things are looking up. When I inquire at a restaurant/bar nearby, they let me have one straight away. I can bring it back on Thursday evening.
Street Food..... With everything now set up for this trip I can relax. It's dark before I head up into the town. Near the market there is street food but little else in the way of places to eat. Everything seems to be set up for takeaway food mostly precooked; not ideal but there is a 7-Eleven convenience store if all else fails. As I reflect further on all this, I can see it is a million miles away from Pattaya or Phuket and even areas of Bangkok which I'm used to. I'm told that the city virtually shuts down at 9 pm. That would never do for some. Some of the resorts near the river will have bars no doubt, but I'm happy here at present updating my notes. I intend to upload the results in the morning.
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