Day 9, Friday 8th February - Mae Sot

Mae Sariang to Mae Sot..... In planning this tour it was clear the mountains of northwest Thailand would dominate it. For most, it would probably be sufficient to do the Mae Hong Son loop of 614 kilometres, but I'm now extending that with another long journey south into Tak province. This will again take me through the mountains, first along the course of the Yuam river then into Tak province at Mae Ngao National Park then along the Ngao river valley, an area sparsely populated. Inside Tak province some of the roads are passable with care as far as the Salawan river and the border with Myanmar. Thereafter, the highway is good. Work is currently underway upgrading the worst sections of road. Finally, the route enters the wide Moei river valley and into Mae Sot.
Local transport, more than 230 kilometres..... I'm aware beforehand, there is only one form of transport, the versatile songtheaw pick-up truck, but operating primarily is a local service. I'm about to make a six and a half hour 'local' journey. That should be fun, especially with my diarrhea still not clear. The guesthouse does provide a breakfast and coffee which I consume with some reservation then walk on up to the bus station. The songtheaw is waiting but departs at 10.45 am, 15 minutes later than scheduled. There are only five passengers onboard. That will increase steadily throughout the trip south. Certainly there will be a number of characters coming and going much as it does on the Ordinary train services. It turns out that a number of these are from Myanmar and to check they have the correct ID there are frequent police checks-points. Illegal entry into Thailand is a problem especially on the borders with Myanmar and Cambodia. As time passes the villages pass by one by one and I engage with some of the children onboard offering them cake and snacks. Eventually the songtheaw reaches the suburbs of Mae Sot then into the local bus station in the town.
Amusement at First Hotel..... At the local bus station I'm disappointed to find my selected accommodation for the night is on the wrong side of town, otherwise I could have been dropped off nearby. As I normally try to resist hiring transport to selected locations I decide to look around the town. A central location in a larger town is not what I prefer either, but it's been a long trip today. Soon I'm directed to a hotel that is hard to describe in one word. I'd best describe it as a building site! However, I'm told that the interior has been renovated. I take a look and I'm not sure renovation is the right word, but it sure is a big surprise. As I enter the reception area it's absolutely crammed with antique furniture and contemporary wood carvings that indicate that at one time this was state of the art and probably the most lavishly decorated building for miles around. I'm offered a room on the first floor but am told that for a little extra I can have a full suite on the first floor. It's just a little over my budget. The wonders just continue coming with wood carvings and murals in every passageway. In the suite, I'm offered, I just rub my eyes in amazement at the polished hardwood furniture, even the headboard above the bed if richly carved depicting a wide range of natural subjects. On the face of it, amid this great spectacle, the management has added modern appliances, furniture and fittings. I'm beginning to wonder if there is a catch here.
Well there is! As I settle down to write my notes still not having come to terms with my surroundings, there is a sudden rushing sound. Have I dosed off dreaming about the waterfalls I recently visited? No I'm still wide awake. The sound seems to be coming from the bathroom. I go and investigate and I was right first time. It is a waterfall, coming right out of the sink and flooding the beautifully marbled floor. I call the reception and for a while frantic efforts are being made to fix the problem. But it's useless! It's a job for tomorrow. I'm given another room and offered an adjustment to the price. The result is I'm more amused than inconvenienced because I understand the owner is doing his best to grapple with ages of neglect to restore this old building. I'm still not totally sure what's going on but the outer shell of the building look like a ruin. I also hope the new owner has evaluated the work correctly. In my experience it is often better to demolish a building such at this and start afresh. To be honest there is so much value in the wood furnishings and carvings they would be better off on show perhaps in a museum rather than a hotel. I notice outside there is even a workshop for restoring and reconstructing these valuable pieces.
My original travel plan included at least two nights in Mae Sot before returning to Bangkok. But this is to be my only night in First Hotel and Mae Sot and not necessarily because of any particular dislike or inconvenience.
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