Day 6, Tuesday 5th February - Mae Hong Son

Back on two wheels..... The owner has kindly lent me a kettle and provided coffee which together with snacks left over from yesterday's travels forms my breakfast. I promise myself an easier day today to arrange some washing and to concentrate on bringing my notes up to date. The day has started misty as it frequently does here but soon the sun burns that off. At the front of the guesthouse is a covered terrace with table and chairs; perfect for working on my computer. As time ticks on towards midday, I venture down into the town to arrange to rent a motorbike. The shop here has a good selection, but they are mostly older machines. The one I select certainly isn't the best runner but at 150 baht/day I can't complain. That's cheap and for the first time that I can remember they don't ask for money up front but, of course, they retain my passport. That arranged it's time for lunch. One of the big advantages of independent transport is the choice it offers to stop anywhere you choose. That invariable gives you options and helps with the budget. I fill myself with two plates of rice for 40 baht. My next stop is the bus terminal which is a little way from town. Unlike Pai, Mae Hong Son has a proper terminal. It has to be remembered that Mae Hong Son has a bus service directly to Bangkok via Chiang Mai using the southern route via Mae Sariang which is my next intended destination. However, while Bangkok is 16 hours from here, Mae Sarieng is just 4 hours away. I'm not ready to return just yet and certainly don't need 16 hours on a coach.
In search of fish..... As with Pai, I have obtained various local maps and also searched online. Mae Hong Son itself has a number of attractions mostly based on its regional architecture but as I exit the bus station it seems I am in search of fish. Outside Mae Hong Son just about every road leads into the mountains which have a wealth of natural features from waterfalls to mountain views and the impressive Pai river. Hill tribe villages occupy this sparsely populated area. Mae Hong Son is fortunate to have a by-pass and I use this to skirt around to the north and link up with the main road 1095 back to Pai. After the best part of 30 minutes I reach the Fish Cave, one of the attractions listed on the map but not before a coffee. By now I've already experienced this provinces mountain roads and switch-back curves and now find myself gazing into a small fertile valley on the brim of which I park and sit admiring the view. In no rush, I finally make my way to the Fish Cave only to find there is an admission fee which yet again discriminates against foreigners. I decline entry, considering fish is best viewed on a plate. However at my next stop I will see plenty of fish.
Pa-Sau Waterfall..... I turn past the coffee shop and leave the 1095 to link up with a mountain road which terminates deep in the mountains near the border with Myanmar. My destination is Pa-Sau Waterfall. The climb up into the mountains tests this older machine but on arrival I find there is no admission fee and the falls just a short walk from the visitor centre. On entry, you are welcome to purchase fish food which is eagerly consumed by resident carp at the base of the falls. Certainly this location offers some respite from the strong sun and coffee is available in the visitor centre. From Pa-Sau Waterfall the road continues into the mountains which I'm told becomes difficult for a motorbike of the type I'm using. It's nearly 4 pm and I'm about 28 kilometres from Mae Hong Son, so I'm not inclined to progress further. Briefly this road leads to a Chinese village at Meo Aw and Meo Pang-Tong Karen village. I understand that entry to long-neck villages is 250 baht but free for Thais. This crazy situation is also a deterrent. Also along this road is a Royal Palace only occasionally in use. OK I need to head back to Mae Hong Son.
Covered in mud..... I return a different way following the signs to the Mud Spa. Located 10 kilometres north of Mae Hong Son, this spa resort is known as the Phuklon Country Club. Curious, I stop to check it out. I learn that a mud source had been discovered in a farmer's field as recently as 1995 and a few years later, tests revealed that the mud contained minerals that had a therapeutic effect, good for the skin and blood circulation. The spa offers a facial mask, body mask and a mineral bath as well as traditional Thai massage. The staff is keen to offer a service, but I am not pressured to accept. However, when offered a bath in warm mineral water at just 60 baht I thought I’d give that a go rather than have a mud facial. Hot water is pumped directly to the bath house from the hot spring, the temperature controlled by adding cold water. The recommended exposure to the spring water is ten minutes and this odd experience effectively wrapped up the day. I return to the lakeside to eat traditional Thai food sat on a mat in front of a low table positioned on the pavement which was surprisingly warm after the hot sun of the day then head back to Jongkham Place.
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