Pak Thai farewell (farewell to Southern Thailand)..... A quite sleepless night passes as I fight the effects of diarrhea, the hot day yesterday not helping. I manage to take something for that before returning the motorbike but food at the moment is out of the question. There is really no point in hanging around as I wait for songtheaw transport, but it doesn't always travel up the beach road. It's 9.30 am and normally I see the transport come around 10 am but today is different; one arrives at 9.40. Luckily it drops right outside the train station. It will be about 3 hours before the train arrives though. Initially, there is some activity as locomotives shunt back and for, but it's very hot. With the heat building and discomfort persisting I'm in for a long wait but at least for now the diarrhea has subsided.
The DRC, right on cue, arrive 15 minutes late! From the outside the DRC looks just as grubby as the main-line locomotives, but things change as soon as I step into the carriage. A rather attractive hostess welcomes passengers and offers some assistance with luggage. The carriage interior is a surprise too; apparently recently having a re-fit. Pity about the floors but overall it's better than I expected. Soon after departure the recently arrived guests receive refreshments, a rice meal, cake, ice drinks and later coffee. I look out of the window to check whether I'm airborne. True to its title 'Special Express', the train bypasses all the small stations and those for which no passengers to board end their journey. The stations pass by one by one, most of the names familiar to me until I realize that I actually feel better, the cooler air and relaxed environment having an effect. I'm not in a position to complain, but one thing is lacking. There is no atmosphere. The enclosed compartment offers little opportunity to observe the outside world and the comings and goings-on a railway system that fascinates me. The two carriage rail-car has a staff of five, two drivers, a conductor, a hostess and a cleaner; fascinating in itself. There are no more meals onboard, but the conductor can phone ahead. This service seems well-supported and noodles are taken onboard at Ratchaburi station. The nearer this Special Express Service 40 gets to Bangkok, the slower is the progress. Dusk falls on entering Ratchaburi province and this time of night, the ritual exodus of services out of Bangkok's Hualamphong to the deep South is in full flow. As with my departure my destination however, is Bang Sue Junction. Oh! Before I finish here this junction name is also a curiosity in translation. It should never be pronounced Sue as in a girl's name. 'Sua' is more accurate but with a deep throated ‘eu’ and a rising tone. Thai can be very confusing. By 8 pm I'm away in a taxi which is surprisingly cheap noting my connections from here will otherwise be very time-consuming. Balancing time v cost is how it works here.
This two province coastal holiday is at an end but, as always, the experience has been irreplaceable. First Page
Tour Detail
Accommodation
Prachuap Kiri Khan....Suksant Hotel, type-apartment, aircon, hot shower, refrigerator, TV, Wifi (dependent on location of room), breakfast....none (restaurant on beach road), rating....satisfactory, price 650 baht.
Ban Krut beach....Proudthai Resort, type-beach bungalow, aircon, hot shower, refrigerator, TV, Wifi, breakfast....hot coffee only, rating....excellent, especially service from the owner, price 700 baht (800 peak times).
Haad Thung Whua Laen....Seabeach Resort, type-beach bungalow, aircon, hot shower, refrigerator, TV, Wifi (only near the shop), breakfast....none, rating....satisfactory, price 600 baht (one of the cheapest on the beach).
Dining out
Prachuap Kiri Khan....The Night Market offers a good selection of local foods. Thai and Western food is available on the beach road or in the town.
Ban Krut beach....There are a number of seafood restaurants on the beach road. There is little in the village near the railway station. Most local restaurants are at the north end of the beach road by the harbor about 10 minutes walk from Proudthai Resort.
Haad Thung Whua Laen....Seafood restaurants are found along the beach road, while some offer Western style breakfast all at reasonable prices. Local foods and street vending are found in Saphli, 3 kilometres away; a 30 minute walk, but most take a bicycle or motorbike. Transport used
Bang Sue (Bangkok) to Prachuap Kiri Khan....Ordinary train 251, 58 baht.
Prachuap Kiri Khan to Ban Krut beach....minivan 70 baht, motorbike taxi 80 baht.
Ban Krut beach to Haad Thung Whua Laen....motorbike taxi 100 baht, minivan 160 baht, songtheaw 30 baht.
Haad Thung Whua Laen to Chumphon railway station....songtheaw 30 baht.
Chumphon railway station to Bangkok....Special Express (sprinter) 478 baht. Motorbike rental
Ban Krut beach....price/day 250 baht (delivered to bungalow)
Haad Thung Whua Laen....price/day 200 baht (some people charge 300 baht for newer machines) Weather
Sunny, hot every day except one day of high cloud but no rain.