Day 3, Wednesday 5 December - Ban Krut Beach

A Royal Birthday..... Today I need no reminder it's HM The King's birthday and as well as acknowledging this fact it also must figure in my plans over a long holiday weekend. However, I'm reminded that I booked a motorbike for today by the sound of its arrival. By the time I venture out onto the veranda the keys are waiting on the table together with a complimentary pot of coffee. That's great I can pop out to 7-Eleven so that's breakfast sorted. As well as writing up some notes, I also study fact sheets and maps that will help me plan my trip for today. Basically Ao Ban Krut ( Ban Krut Bay) has a substantial picturesque beach some 20 kilometres long, terminating in a headland Khao Mae Ramphung in the south. Ban Krut beach resorts are mainly located at the northern end while the stretch as far as Ban Bo Thong Lang near the headland is practically deserted. It's this area south of Ban Krut as far as Bang Sapan that I intend to explore today. But I'm in no hurry to get away, first inquiring at a tourist information office.
Don Sam Ran..... I head away from the beach area and south from Ban Krut village along a wide road practically deserted. About 10 kilometres out, I cut back off the highway towards the beach where true to my fact sheet, the beach is deserted. A signboard tells me that this is Don Sam Ran beach. I can't help but park up and simply stare at the scene around me as if transfixed by its isolation. I have joined the beach road which understandably on account of its location is not best maintained. Nevertheless, I continue my journey south along this route enjoying the ocean views. Oddly, there is one resort located along this road totally isolated. This seems totally unnecessary. This isn't the Masai Mara but may be a sign of things to come!
Ban Bo Thong Lang..... As I approach the headland at the end of Ban Krut beach there is increased activity. In the distance in front of the rocky outcrop of Mae Ramphueng hill are two piers each extended far enough to allow deep water fishing vessels to land their catch. More immediately to my right, large drying racks of fish, each unit occupying the area of a football field, allow processing of the catch for export. I head for one of the piers just in time to witness the arrival of a vessel which immediately discharges its contents in a flurry of activity as a crowd of bodies frantically load baskets of fish onto a flat bed truck presumably heading for the drying racks. Other forms of fishing co-exist as individuals use more traditional rods and lines fishing off the pier hoping for a tasty supper. I now continue around the headland until Mae Ramphueng Bay exposes itself. I'm not far from Bang Sapan town which is also a halt on the Southern railway line. But first some lunch.
Ban Ao Yang..... Having crossed the headland, I travel up the southern side to the small fishing port at Ban Ao Yang. Inevitably, seafood dominates local cuisine here and I'm attracted by a restaurant perched on the side of Mae Ramphueng hill offering excellent views of the bay. Mangrove trees cling precariously to the rock face also offering shade while a rack of fresh squid lies exposed to the sun; somebody's meal later. After lunch, it's on to the fishing port where a collection of smaller vessels wait for late afternoon departure to provide seafood restaurants with yet more squid and fish. Small squid fishing vessels are distinguished by their array of large light bulbs which after dark glow an iridescent green. As well as attracting squid, this feature also creates a curious glow on the horizon viewed from the coastline. The vessels are not equipped for deep sea fishing as squid thrive close to the shoreline. It's rather hot and I head back and over the bridge, first following the bay then heading into Bang Saphan.
Bang Saphan..... Bang Saphan is the largest community now in Prachuap Kiri Khan Province before crossing the provincial border into Chumphon. Situated on the main railway line to the south but still some distance from the main Petchkasem Highway (4), it's accessibility by road is limited. The town itself offers little in the way of attractions but today is the King's birthday with concerts and street parties planned for the evening. Naturally it's a bit congested and I have no plans to stay. I simply call at the railway station before heading back to Ban Krut. The journey back is the complete opposite as I make my way first along the open highway before turning back along the coastal road leading back into Ban Krut. Initially deserted, this road crosses a small river which offers refuge to a small fishing community then passes more resorts of high star rating before rejoining the main coastal road to my starting point. Before dark, I take a stroll along the beach before reverting to two wheels to look for some dinner. It's time to make some notes so that will do for today.
Next Page