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Day 12 - Tuesday 27 October 2015
Last Day on Tour........I continue to be impressed with Chainat Resort. It’s just so convenient for everything. Chainat is a small Province, only half the size of Suphanburi so I can afford to stay in the same place while touring the province. But not today as I head back to Bangkok. I took an easier day yesterday but there is work today on the way south. It’s time for breakfast.
The 600 baht I paid for the room at Chainat Resort includes breakfast and use of the pool. It fantastic value really but breakfast is a bit predictable. There is no fried or grilled food or something to microwave. Everything is just popped into boiling water including an egg. They say it’s their healthy option. I cheat and add something from 7Eleven just around the corner. That done, I feel if all goes well today, I will make it back to Bangkok before dark. Should I allow myself the luxury of taking a swim in the pool before I check-out? OK let’s do that. The pool opens at 10am and at this time it’s deserted. I have the pool to myself. Any morning cloud soon disappears. Thai people are not mad dogs or Englishmen and do not ‘go out in the midday sun’ if they can help it. Now I manage to make a more serious effort to get some lengths in but time overtakes me as I need to finalise my departure.
Wat Karuna……..Wat Karuna, according to my downloaded notes, is next to the Chao Phraya Dam but although I’ve visited the dam I’m unable to locate the wat. Let’s have another go before I head south. When I do find it, I know I’ve passed by it already but it’s not near the dam. It’s about five kilometres away. On arrival, local people are celebrating Auk Phan Sa. In any case they would have come to pray at 11am, followed by a traditional temple lunch. Katoon than engages with the monk. It’s been a feature of the tour that whenever we make enquiries at a temple, monks are remarkably open and willing make conversation. I get the feeling that both of us are at the same level intellectually although not religiously. The monks don’t have the same opportunities with their congregation. I’m certainly not putting myself above local people; it’s just that they don’t get the opportunity to travel. The time now is midday and the people are still eating. We are invited to join them at least for coffee. But I’m concerned about the time and besides, I have eaten a big breakfast. Then after all that I’m told that the Buddha image I’ve been looking for is at the dam. When they constructed the dam the temple was moved but the image was re-housed where it used to be. I need to double back to the dam asap. Here I find Chainat's largest sandstone Buddha image named Phra Phutthamaha Sila or Luangpho Hin Yai, which is revered by the local people. The image is large and required carving in three individual pieces. It’s clear that the temple site is old from evidence remaining at the site. Again there is a delay while Katoon pays respects. I must press on down Highway 340.
Last Day on Tour........I continue to be impressed with Chainat Resort. It’s just so convenient for everything. Chainat is a small Province, only half the size of Suphanburi so I can afford to stay in the same place while touring the province. But not today as I head back to Bangkok. I took an easier day yesterday but there is work today on the way south. It’s time for breakfast.
The 600 baht I paid for the room at Chainat Resort includes breakfast and use of the pool. It fantastic value really but breakfast is a bit predictable. There is no fried or grilled food or something to microwave. Everything is just popped into boiling water including an egg. They say it’s their healthy option. I cheat and add something from 7Eleven just around the corner. That done, I feel if all goes well today, I will make it back to Bangkok before dark. Should I allow myself the luxury of taking a swim in the pool before I check-out? OK let’s do that. The pool opens at 10am and at this time it’s deserted. I have the pool to myself. Any morning cloud soon disappears. Thai people are not mad dogs or Englishmen and do not ‘go out in the midday sun’ if they can help it. Now I manage to make a more serious effort to get some lengths in but time overtakes me as I need to finalise my departure.
Wat Karuna……..Wat Karuna, according to my downloaded notes, is next to the Chao Phraya Dam but although I’ve visited the dam I’m unable to locate the wat. Let’s have another go before I head south. When I do find it, I know I’ve passed by it already but it’s not near the dam. It’s about five kilometres away. On arrival, local people are celebrating Auk Phan Sa. In any case they would have come to pray at 11am, followed by a traditional temple lunch. Katoon than engages with the monk. It’s been a feature of the tour that whenever we make enquiries at a temple, monks are remarkably open and willing make conversation. I get the feeling that both of us are at the same level intellectually although not religiously. The monks don’t have the same opportunities with their congregation. I’m certainly not putting myself above local people; it’s just that they don’t get the opportunity to travel. The time now is midday and the people are still eating. We are invited to join them at least for coffee. But I’m concerned about the time and besides, I have eaten a big breakfast. Then after all that I’m told that the Buddha image I’ve been looking for is at the dam. When they constructed the dam the temple was moved but the image was re-housed where it used to be. I need to double back to the dam asap. Here I find Chainat's largest sandstone Buddha image named Phra Phutthamaha Sila or Luangpho Hin Yai, which is revered by the local people. The image is large and required carving in three individual pieces. It’s clear that the temple site is old from evidence remaining at the site. Again there is a delay while Katoon pays respects. I must press on down Highway 340.
Chainat Ceramics........Chainat Ceramics lies on the left of Highway 340 heading south. This stop is opportunistic and at this stage in the day I offer no objection to having a look around. It does result in me buying a few things as Christmas presents and as I look around there are some beautifully decorated item of real quality. Much of what this factory produces ends up for export.
Wat Phichaiyanawas........For the next two temples I need to head to Hanka District. This is the area where I made a detour on Friday which virtually spoilt the day. The town is signposted from the 340 but is some distance away. In Hanka Town I stop for lunch. Its Isaan food and I’m not sure I need food right now only drinks but my partner must eat. Wat Phichaiyanawas is a couple of kilometres on the western side of town along local road 3211. The ordination hall or phra ubosot here is built in the middle of the pond enshrining the principal Buddha image of Luangpho To, which is in the posture of accepting offerings from an elephant and a monkey. Once again there is a delay while a monk after giving blessing goes into conversation. If ever there was a diploma in talking, Katoon would get A Star every time! But there is another reason for delay as it appears I have an upset stomach. By this time I’ve given up on reaching Bangkok before dark. As long as I reach Suphanburi while it’s still light I should be OK.
Wat Phichaiyanawas........For the next two temples I need to head to Hanka District. This is the area where I made a detour on Friday which virtually spoilt the day. The town is signposted from the 340 but is some distance away. In Hanka Town I stop for lunch. Its Isaan food and I’m not sure I need food right now only drinks but my partner must eat. Wat Phichaiyanawas is a couple of kilometres on the western side of town along local road 3211. The ordination hall or phra ubosot here is built in the middle of the pond enshrining the principal Buddha image of Luangpho To, which is in the posture of accepting offerings from an elephant and a monkey. Once again there is a delay while a monk after giving blessing goes into conversation. If ever there was a diploma in talking, Katoon would get A Star every time! But there is another reason for delay as it appears I have an upset stomach. By this time I’ve given up on reaching Bangkok before dark. As long as I reach Suphanburi while it’s still light I should be OK.
Wat Klai Kangwon........The second wat in Hanka District I need to visit is Wat Klai Kangwon. To reach this I need to travel south towards Suphanburi Province on minor roads. Its fifteen minutes drive away but in the distance I can see it on hilltop. When I reach the base of the hill, there are large double gates blocking the road. When I approach the gates open automatically. Once inside I realise why the gates are there. A number of species of deer wander around clearly unconcerned about the comings and goings. I hadn’t expected to be visiting a safari park. I’m directed along a road leading to the hill top. It’s a bit of a climb then near the summit there are more gates. This time we need to stop and open them manually. I hope there are only deer in the park! The temple itself is just a little further on. As I park up at the summit I have more stomach problems and have to make a run for it. Can’t really tell you what happened next but there is further delay. With some relief, I now can look around. There is a Buddha image in a simple shelter then further on is the chedi but unlike anything I’ve ever seen. The chedi sits on a rock stack but I soon realise the stack is artificial: You can walk inside. It is a domed structure with the chedi built on top. The dome is built from stone and concrete giving a cave-like feel. It’s hard to describe but you may have seen similar structures for effect in Disneyland. However there is one thing certain and that is the reason why it’s here. It exists to enshrine a Buddha footprint, the largest I’ve ever seen. There is the annual Tak Bat Devo ceremony (giving food for monks) held here. The area around has a number of small hills but no mountain ranges or rolling hills. They rise above the plain like molehills on a football pitch. This hilltop may have had ancient ruins but today the temple is clearly Buddhist.
Race against time........Returning down the hill, I notice the time at 4.30am. This is going to be tight. I have to make it east to rejoin Highway 340 but there is a road that leads into Doem Bang Nang Buat in the north of Suphanburi Province. I’m now in familiar territory but that doesn’t help with the time as I head south picking up speed. The time is moving towards 5pm. This is way past the ideal time to reach Supanburi. Around 5.30 I am on the outskirts of the city but on the wrong side of the highway for my final site visit. To reach that I need to pass through the town itself and out at least another ten minutes drive but well before that the seemingly impossible happens. You know already this is a religious day. Auk Phan Sa is the end of Buddhist Lent and signals the end of the monsoon rains. It hasn’t rained for a week now but black clouds coming in from the south have looked threatening. As I turn off the highway the heavens open up into a full blown thunderstorm and darkness falls early. As I enter the city there is traffic chaos. It’s so sad that events today have led to this. I just have to abandon the visit. It is for me the most important of the day because it would complete the review of the demise of Lauda Air Flight 004. A permanent memorial was set up in the temple grounds of Wat Sa Kaeo Srisanpetch. I was only aware of it after leaving Suphanburi last week. It’s such a pity. It would have been a fitting end to this tour.
Incriminations........With this disappointment it’s easy to point a finger but things are as they are. I hand the driving over to Katoon to take us into Bangkok. There is strong debate about which route to take because arriving in the west of the metropolis makes is difficult to negotiate the northern suburbs in the evening. I suggest we use the ring road around the city but that’s an awfully long detour. This time Katoon buys into it but we don’t even get that right and end up back in the city in a traffic jam anyway. It’s now going to be after 8pm before we reach Kubon. As I said things are what they are and my best option now is to go into shutdown mode and there's a perfect solution for that. We need some bread and milk from 7Eleven in the village and my eyes light up at the rows of ice-cold beer in the fridge but at the checkout they blurt out ‘No Sell’, thinking I wouldn’t understand Thai. Then the penny drops. They cannot sell beer and alcohol on religious days. Ok 7Eleven is a national franchise. Local shops are sort of exempt. I can get one inside the residence park. Ouch! The shop is closed: Day off right for Auk Phan Sa. As I head forlornly back to the residence there’s still my duty free. I’ll just check what’s happening on Facebook but there’s no internet connection. Katoon calls the company and they apologise that the system is down. They have recently installed fibre but this is a high-tech city. I’m not up country now. I’ve no further comment on this special day of celebration! Next Page.
Incriminations........With this disappointment it’s easy to point a finger but things are as they are. I hand the driving over to Katoon to take us into Bangkok. There is strong debate about which route to take because arriving in the west of the metropolis makes is difficult to negotiate the northern suburbs in the evening. I suggest we use the ring road around the city but that’s an awfully long detour. This time Katoon buys into it but we don’t even get that right and end up back in the city in a traffic jam anyway. It’s now going to be after 8pm before we reach Kubon. As I said things are what they are and my best option now is to go into shutdown mode and there's a perfect solution for that. We need some bread and milk from 7Eleven in the village and my eyes light up at the rows of ice-cold beer in the fridge but at the checkout they blurt out ‘No Sell’, thinking I wouldn’t understand Thai. Then the penny drops. They cannot sell beer and alcohol on religious days. Ok 7Eleven is a national franchise. Local shops are sort of exempt. I can get one inside the residence park. Ouch! The shop is closed: Day off right for Auk Phan Sa. As I head forlornly back to the residence there’s still my duty free. I’ll just check what’s happening on Facebook but there’s no internet connection. Katoon calls the company and they apologise that the system is down. They have recently installed fibre but this is a high-tech city. I’m not up country now. I’ve no further comment on this special day of celebration! Next Page.