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Day 5 - Tuesday 20 October 2015
The Resort........photo. I’m glad to see the back of The Resort; curious name I thought. With no battery power left on my laptop and with no provision for breakfast or even a coffee I’ve no reason to hang around this morning. Having said that, I woke late. By the time I get a coffee and snack at 7Eleven, it’s a start at 10am.
Bueng Nong Sarai……..I mentioned the historic importance of Don Chedi District and I’m looking for Bueng Nong Sarai. Wikipedia says this: This huge lake was involved in the war when King Naresuan defeated the Burmese troops. It is pitiful that the lake, at present covering an area of only 29 rai (11.6 acres), is in poor condition.. If this is true then I don’t need to spend much time here, just take a few photographs. It would be a great pity as even with my limited knowledge of Thai history, I know this is the site of the famous Elephant Battle of Nong Sarai (1592) in which King Naresuan defeated Prince Mingyi Swa of Burma to liberate Ayutthaya. The site isn’t far from the town but that doesn’t mean it is easy to find among the rice paddies. When I do find it I’m in for a big surprise. The article I read is clearly out of date. In 2006, eleven million baht was invested by the then Prime Minister working with the Fine Arts Department to create a memorial to King Naresuan. The result is a splendid rectangular lake with a pagoda in the middle connected to a bridge. The location is so peaceful now, so fitting for any battlefield and of great credit to those who created the commemoration park. I head back to Don Chedi with a happy heart.
The Resort........photo. I’m glad to see the back of The Resort; curious name I thought. With no battery power left on my laptop and with no provision for breakfast or even a coffee I’ve no reason to hang around this morning. Having said that, I woke late. By the time I get a coffee and snack at 7Eleven, it’s a start at 10am.
Bueng Nong Sarai……..I mentioned the historic importance of Don Chedi District and I’m looking for Bueng Nong Sarai. Wikipedia says this: This huge lake was involved in the war when King Naresuan defeated the Burmese troops. It is pitiful that the lake, at present covering an area of only 29 rai (11.6 acres), is in poor condition.. If this is true then I don’t need to spend much time here, just take a few photographs. It would be a great pity as even with my limited knowledge of Thai history, I know this is the site of the famous Elephant Battle of Nong Sarai (1592) in which King Naresuan defeated Prince Mingyi Swa of Burma to liberate Ayutthaya. The site isn’t far from the town but that doesn’t mean it is easy to find among the rice paddies. When I do find it I’m in for a big surprise. The article I read is clearly out of date. In 2006, eleven million baht was invested by the then Prime Minister working with the Fine Arts Department to create a memorial to King Naresuan. The result is a splendid rectangular lake with a pagoda in the middle connected to a bridge. The location is so peaceful now, so fitting for any battlefield and of great credit to those who created the commemoration park. I head back to Don Chedi with a happy heart.
Naresuan Palace........The Naresuan Palace lies within the old city compound near the memorial. It is an open memorial the King Naresuan and the Royal Family, including his younger brother Prince Somdet Phra Ekathotsarot and older sister Suphankanlaya.
Don Chedi Memorial.......The Don Chedi lies within the old town defences and is visible any way you approach the town. The chedi commemorates Naresuan’s victory over the Burmese at the Battle of Nong Sarai in 1592. A large bronze statue of the King on the back of an elephant as in battle stands proudly on pedestal in front of the chedi. The chedi is not old. It was constructed by the army in 1952 to cover the remains of the old chedi that was built after the battle. The old chedi is in ruin and it had been lost in time until 1913 when it was discovered after a search ordered at the end of Rama V’s reign. The discovery was met with great jubilation and the chedi rose to national fame. Today the chedi as well as protecting the precious monument also serves as a museum commemorating the life of King Naresuan. Trouble has been taken to include English for the presentations and I believe a visit here is a must for any student of Thai history.
Dan Chang........At about midday you would think my attention would move towards the next location. But there isn’t one, at least not in Don Chedi District. I’m soon heading north towards Dan Chang. Dan Chang is the most western of Suphanburi’s districts. Accordingly it shares many features of its western neighbours. This means mountains, waterfalls, national parks. The next few days will be quite different from the temple trail on the plains. After lunch by 2pm I’ve located a suitable resort. The first priority is charge up the battery on my laptop. Normality is restored. I also take the opportunity to charge my own batteries and take a nap. For once I’ve set no other target for the day.
Krasiao Dam........By 4pm I’m suitably refreshed and there’s no reason not to recce the area and gather information. My systematic approach to site visits in Dan Chang is not so useful here due to the terrain and I need local information to help with a plan. An obvious site to visit is the Krasiao Dam, just a few kilometres from Dan Chang. This is the country’s longest earthen dam is built on the Krasiao River. Its reservoir, with maximum water storage of 240 million cubic metres, is also a major fish-breeding site. It takes just 30 minutes to reach and record the dam where the lake is indeed vast with the mountains on the far side a slim uneven streak of light grey. So is there time for anything else before dark?
Krasiao Dam........By 4pm I’m suitably refreshed and there’s no reason not to recce the area and gather information. My systematic approach to site visits in Dan Chang is not so useful here due to the terrain and I need local information to help with a plan. An obvious site to visit is the Krasiao Dam, just a few kilometres from Dan Chang. This is the country’s longest earthen dam is built on the Krasiao River. Its reservoir, with maximum water storage of 240 million cubic metres, is also a major fish-breeding site. It takes just 30 minutes to reach and record the dam where the lake is indeed vast with the mountains on the far side a slim uneven streak of light grey. So is there time for anything else before dark?
Talay Nam Jeut or Haad Si Nam Jeut........Talay Nam Jeut refers to an area towards the head of the Krasiao Reservoir which is a sandy beach while the water in the lake is low. It is very popular among locals who use it as a recreation area for bathing or simply hanging out at one of the temporary restaurants set up on the beach. It’s a concern for me to try to make it to the beach and back before dark, particularly as it’s located on the opposite side of the lake some 20 kilometres away. I would not hesitate if it weren’t so late in the day. There’s just one hour of daylight left. However I don’t seem to have a say in the matter this time but the tension grows when the recommended short-cut proves less than short. By the time I reach the lake it’s nearly 5.30pm and the sun is glowing red on the horizon. I have just ten minutes here when a couple of hours hanging out would be great. Directions for the return are more straightforward and lead to a connection with Highway 333, now familiar to me. As the rate for the resort is very reasonable I decide to push the boat out a bit and go for a seafood dinner. It’s just magic. Fried bpla gapong (sea bass) and tom kha goong (prawns in a coconut curry sauce) are a real treat taking up a whole day’s food budget but not every day right? Today has shown how amazing these tours can be. Not taking anything away from the fascination with temple tours but natural surrounding have provided a welcome change and slight easing of the oppressive heat. By the time I turn in a plan has developed for tomorrow which will take in some interesting sites. Next Page.