Day 9 - Sunday 15 January 2017

Tour plan........After yesterday’s journey there’s no desire to wake early and its gone 9am before we think about breakfast which turns out to be a simple affair with coffee and toast but we’ll take it but I’d still rather make coffee in the room. I’d also prefer a better internet connection. It’s now time to get out and see what Malacca has to offer. Katoon has drawn up a list and it seems a number of locations are quite near. We should be able to get around on foot. I know there’s going to be quite a bit of history here but I must confess, I’ve done little research. We head across the Malacca River Google Map. bridge to the first stop which is in view. From there it’s an easy walk to and number of historic sites which we can cover in the morning session. From the outset I am pleased to see information boards in English and Malay and from these I start to build a clear picture of the history of Malacca. Much of it is concentrated in a small area where the trading port used to be. The historic buildings and sites are described briefly here.
Church of St. Francis Xavier........Google Map. St. Francis Xavier Church lies on the eastern bank of the Malacca River in the old city. It was built in 1849 on the site of a Dominican convent built in 1553. The neo-gothic church was built by Reverand Peter Stephen L. Farve of France in propagating the Roman Catholic faith. The design is based on the Cathedral of St, Peter in Montpellier.

Being a Sunday morning there is a service about to take place. I wander inside and witness the start of the service. I’m surprised to see the service in perfect English with hymns and prayers projected onto a screen. It’s just like an orthodox Christian service which seems so familiar to me but I’m curious as to why a Catholic Church is here in Malacca given Dutch and British presence over several centuries.
Dutch Square........Google Map. Dutch Square is a small picturesque square along Jalan Kota. It's also a colourful trishaw pickup point. It is distinguished by a group of bright, terracotta-red colonial Dutch buildings, built between 1660 and 1700, with louvered windows and chunky doors with wrought iron hinges. A central fountain dominates the area with an ornate Victorian marble addition, erected in 1904 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee....more.
Melaka Clock Tower........The Melaka Clock Tower also known as the Tang Beng Swee Clock Tower is located outside the Stadthuys in Dutch Square. It was presented to individuals of Malacca in 1886 by Mr Tan Jiak Kim to fulfil the desires of his father, Tan Beng Swee, who was the third generation of a Chinese philanthropic millionaire family. Tan Beng Swee, was the son of Tan Kim Seng who donated both the bridge nearby to the clocktower and land for the Chinese cemetery. The initial clock was imported from England. When the clock was changed by one from Seiko in 1982, it triggered uproar among the elderly people of Malacca who still recalled the severe trauma they suffered throughout Japan occupation. The design of the tower looks Dutch but obviously it isn't.

Christ Church Melaka........Christ Church, built by the Dutch when they took possession of Malacca from the Portuguese, is one of Malacca’s most defining structures. Situated along Jalan Gereja (also known as Church Street) it is an instantly recognizable brick-red building with a huge white cross at the top. Sitting opposite the Stadhuys, Christ Church was built in 1753 to celebrate a century of Dutch occupation. The interior of the cathedral has 200 year-old handmade pews, decorative fanlights and plaques that honour Dutch soldiers and locals.
At the time of our visit there is also a service in progress but the congregation is far fewer and the sermon is in Malay.
The Stadthuys........Presiding over the entire south side of Dutch Square, the Stadthuys was completed in 1660 and is said to be the oldest-existing Dutch building in the East. It originally served as the official residence of the Dutch governors and was used as a town hall throughout the British administration; it now houses a collection of museums....more.
St Pauls Church........Google Map. St. Paul's Church is a historic church building originally built in 1521, making it the oldest church building in Malaysia and Southeast Asia. It is located at the summit of St. Paul's Hill and is today part of the Malacca Museum Complex. The original structure was a simple chapel built by the Portuguese dedicated to the Virgin Mary and known as the Nossa Senhora da Annunciada (Our Lady of Grace).
With the conquest of Malacca by the Dutch in 1641, the church was reconsecrated for Dutch Reformed use as St. Paul's Church also known as the Bovernkerk or High Church. The church remained in use as the main church of the Dutch community until the new Bovenkerk (better known today as Christ Church Melaka) was completed in 1753. The old church was then subsequently deconsecrated and the structure modified and strengthened as part of the fortifications of Malacca. The nave of the church was then used as a churchyard....more.

When the British occupied Malacca in 1824, the church was used as a powder magazine and was allowed to deteriorate further. In 1924, the old Portuguese burial vault in the chancel of the church was partially uncovered. Further excavation was done in 1930. It was in this period that the tombstones that were scattered around in the vicinity of the church were affixed to the walls. This massive stones belong to dignitaries of the day.
A. Formosa........Google Map. A. Formosa is the 16th century Portuguese fortress in Malacca. It is among the oldest surviving European architectural remains in south east Asia. The Porta de Santiago, a small gate house, is the only part of the fortress which still remains today.
In 1511, a Portuguese fleet arrived under the command of Afonso de Albuquerque. His forces attacked and defeated the armies of the Malacca Sultanate. Moving quickly to consolidate his gains, Albuquerque had the fortress built around a natural hill near the sea. Albuquerque believed that Malacca would become an important port linking Portugal to the Spice Route in China. At this time other Portuguese were establishing outposts in such places as Macau, China and Goa, India to create a string of friendly ports for ships heading to Ming China and returning home to Portugal. The fort changed hands in 1641 when the Dutch drove the Portuguese out of Malacca. The Dutch renovated the gate in 1670, which explains the logo "ANNO 1670" inscribed on the gate's arch. Above the arch is a bas-relief logo of the Dutch East India Company.
The fortress changed hands again in the late 18th century when the Dutch handed it over to the British to prevent it from falling into the hands of Napoleon's expansionist France. The English were wary of maintaining the fortification and ordered its destruction in 1806. The fort was almost totally demolished but for the timely intervention of Sir Stamford Raffles, the founder of modern Singapore, who was sent on sick leave from Penang to Malacca in 1807. Because of his passion for history, this small gate was spared from destruction....more.

Lunch break........It’s time for lunch and south of St Pauls Hill is a department store with conveniently a food court. It’s spacious with plenty of seating available in stark contrast to Bugis in Singapore. There are just a few food centres open but there is still a wide variety of choice. A sweet and sour goes down very well and good value too.
Bastion Santiago........Google Map. Santiago Bastion was discovered at the end of 2002 while excavation work was being carried out prior to construction of Dataran Pahlawan. The site is located along the embankment built by the British in the early 19th century using the laterite blocks from the ruins of the Melaka Fortress. Plans had to be adjusted accordingly leaving parts of the bastion exposed as a reminder of Malacca's turbulant past. It should be noted that the Santiago Bastion was one of four bastions of the Melaka fort giving an indication of its size and a statement of its intent....more.
More preservation........Near the department store is a small park containing relics of a more modern age. Here there is a propeller driven aircraft (looks like a Dakota), a diesel locomotive and carriage and a fire truck. The carriage serves as a souvenir shop.

Maritime museum........Google Map. We return to the riverside along which is the jetty for boat cruises. Having passed buy other museums which dominate the area I locate the maritime museum which is just past the boat pier. It is clearly visible from St Pauls Hill and consists of a reconstructed Portuguese galleon. It’s not until I arrive I realise what it is. Inside is the complete history of Malacca from its early days as a fishing village, through its golden age of trade, the occupation by the Portuguese, followed by the Dutch and British. It deals with the personalities involved and life as a trading port under the various administrations. It’s quite captivating and I’m here far longer than I expected....more.
Next to the galleon there are other museum buildings. A customs building lies to the north while another museum deals with other aspects of maritime life. A good part of this deals with natural life in the ocean. There are exhibits of boats from different periods, a section on famous explorers and one on underwater archaeology. There’s far more here than I expected and time has flown by. Katoon, who didn’t accompany me on the visit, must have been tired of waiting as there no sign of her as I leave the museum. Initially it’s my turn to wait but finally I realise she must have gone back to the hotel.

Bastion Middleburg........Google Map. In late November 2006, a structural part of the fort, believed to be the Bastion Middleburg was accidentally uncovered during the construction of 110 meter revolving tower in Malacca Town. The construction of the tower was ceased and its site was subsequently shifted to the popular district of Bandar Hilir. Excavations revealed traces of the old Portuguese bastion which were later reinforced by the Dutch....more.

Retreat........I head back to the hotel where Katoon had retreated ages ago. There’s time for a rest then at 6.30pm, time for dinner. With the riverfront restaurant at the back of the hotel, it’s strange that Katoon fells the need to go out. There is a Thai restaurant nearby but all she fancies is Chinese noodles and I’m employed as chaperone as we search around the town. For my part I’ve noticed and Indian curry shop opposite and decide to have a go at that. Big mistake! The food, prepared hours ago, is a huge disappointment. I consider the option to sit out by the river with a beer but it’s just too expensive. Back at the room, they suggest a different password and router. Now I get a much better connection but not much work on my blog gets done as I reflect on the day.
Significant........In terms of historical significance, this UNESCO site at Malacca is huge. It wasn’t my suggestion to come here but I’m really glad I did. From a British point of view, it adds to my visit to Singapore and Penang on an earlier tour representing British influence in Malaya. However, unlike the other two which were created by empire, Malacca was inherited but by the time the British took control here, this famous trading port was already in decine. Next Page.