Day 5 - Wednesday 11 January 2017

Awaiting compensation........I get a peaceful night interrupted only my mosquitoes buzzing around my ears but miraculously I don’t get bitten. But on my mind at the moment is the fact that this tour, now approaching the halfway point, has yet to compensate me for the effort I’ve put in. A point is approaching were I start to consider options to return to the mainland prematurely. I really need a spark to set this tour alight. But let’s not jump the gun and take it step by step. I have a kettle so I can make coffee and a shop is just next door. It’s a start.
Aware that a ferry boat is due we wander down to the jetty perhaps looking for inspiration. There at the terminal is the guy we spoke to yesterday. He’s collecting passengers but is happy to discuss travel arrangements with us. At this point I go along with the suggestion that we move in the morning to the opposite side of the island at Juara even though it will be expensive by car. But it least that fixes things for another day at least. We also consider a trip this afternoon to Air Batang. Where I’m told I can snorkel.

Updated schedule........I can now complete the schedule which will allow me to stay on Tioman for three more nights. The last night will be back at Tekek due to the early ferry departure but the tomorrow night is still up for grabs at Juara. When I locate accommodation not far from Pelandang Chalet, the schedule is complete. I shall be leaving in the morning at 9am. For this afternoon, transport is arranged at 2pm.
Considering the terrain on Tioman, I’m surprised to see so many cars when I wasn’t expecting any. Tekek is the largest village on the island yet there’s barely 5 kms of road. Most of cars are old Japanese 4 x 4’s. Only the more expensive resorts have anything modern, being pickups. One therefore has to question how it is that it costs 30 ringgit to cover perhaps 3 kms. Presumably it’s the cost of fuel but there are only 2 cheaper alternatives: Walking or cycling. Both are feasible.
Air Batang........Air Batang is at the north end of the bay where the road terminates. But there is a walkway to get a better view of Air Batang Bay which also has resorts. As with much of Tekek there are just a few buildings along the coastal strip here. One of these buildings is the marine conservation centre.
Amazing........Google Map. After one of the shortest taxi rides I’ve ever been on we arrive at the pier. Apart from the few buildings there is only the pier of which there are many on the island, equivalent to bus stops on the mainland. At first I’m confused as to where I can go snorkeling but I’m told I must keep within the line between the end of the pier and the headland, not a large area really. It’s not what I expected recalling my boat trips in Thailand. I’m given a life preserver and snorkeling gear and the rest is up to me. We walk along the pier where Katoon can wait. In the cordoned off area is a raft made from square plastic containers, enough to support a couple of dozen people but there’s only me. As I gaze down at the crystal blue-green water I see fish, lots of fish. It was recommended I bring bread for them and I soon see the reason for this. You can attracts fish of amazing beauty, size and variety. It soon registers that there are more species here than I’ve seen on all the other snorkeling trips put together. It’s a real life tropical aquarium in the corner of the bay. All I have to do is walk down the beach. At waste level the fish are all around you. I tie the bread sack to the straps of the preserver then pierce the bag. Then all hell breaks loose as fish of all sizes and colours swarm around me nipping and tugging. The experience is surreal. I never expected this. I don’t know how long I spend in the water but it must have been an hour. It's hard to understand why there are so many fish here. To start with, this is a protected area and clearly the level of habitation and tourism has not reached a level to affect the marine life. Also there are attempts to regenerate corals by the marine department....YouTube.

Rating........If my approval rating for this combined tour was recorded on a swingometre then at the start of the day it would be well down in negative territory but somehow a day that had little promise has pushed that needle well back towards neutral. At the chalet the shower is working and Katoon, finally is feeling confidant to try the local food which has kept expenses under control. For the second day running it’s a beef burger for dinner and chips with that. I hope after tomorrow I can push that needle even further. One thing which will help is to get a good internet connection as there is a backlog developing for uploading my blog. Next Page.