Wednesday 29th February

(Cont from Page 10).....I am still prone to cold shivers and sweats but otherwise I am in better spirits. While waiting for the minivan I engage in conversation with a lad from Dien Bien returning home for a family event. He has taken the trouble to learn languages and has been working as a tour guide in Sapa. As if unable to depart from his daily recital describing local attractions, customs and events he will become and welcome distraction on this journey engaging with the fellow western travelers who add themselves to the passenger list. The minivan has a seating capacity of 15 but that will be exceeded as the van’s compliment fluctuates. As the journey gets underway the cloud in the valley gets left behind and we are reminded that we are entering the Hoang Lien Son Mountain Range home of Indo China's highest peak, Mount Fanispan, 3,143 metres high. At the rest stop at half distance I feel the heat is having an effect and I can take off a layer of clothing. Here the westerners hang around munching snacks, the Vietnamese consume noodles in customary fashion. The total distance from Sapa to Dien Bien is well over 400 kms.
Damn! Construction........The next section still with around 200 kms left to travel proves the most difficult. The road enters a river valley and may be a temporary unsurfaced thoroughfare. A lot of activity is concentrated in the valley below where is seems a dam is being constructed. There is plenty of evidence for relocation of the local population with house and road construction underway. I don’t know anything about it at this stage but the Chinese are keen to secure new sources of energy to cater for ever growing demand. China’s southern neighbours have a valuable resource in their terrain suitable for dam construction but environmental concerns often scupper their efforts. The road which skirts the valley sides is subject to frequent rock slides likely the result of construction work. Machinery is permanently station to keep the roadway open. In the growing heat of the afternoon there is a need for ventilation; there is no air conditioning of course, but the constant dust clouds created by construction vehicles in motion prevent this. Passage through this section seems to take an eternity but with 100 kms. to go the road conditions improve and with light traffic progress is much better.
Cultural Differences........The guide has continued his commentary which curiously gets around to football. He explains that he is the goalkeeper for his local team but his physic is more appropriate for a winger. (Cont on Page 12)