Day 4, Saturday 13 April, Chiang Khan

Free Day to Explore....... Today I expect another day dominated by family interests but nothing seems to be organised this morning with various factions doing their own thing. That means we are free to do our own thing too. At the bungalow we've made things as comfortable as possible despite a bed that's not far off like sleeping on a plank. At 10 am we're off exploring.
Skywalk Chiang Khan....... From past trips I know Loei well with very few attractions left to visit but the Skywalk is new although in a location we've been to before. Today is Songkran, Thai New Year and it's expected that things will turn chaotic as the customary water fights kick in. We believe that arriving there in the morning will avoid the worst of the traffic and in the event thing prove relatively calm as we reach the Pak Tom. What I notice is a big improvement in the infrastructure here that didn't exist before including road improvements, car parking and food vending. Now from the car park local transport takes you to the Skywalk. They've certainly done a good job in turning this into a tourist attraction and things will never be the same again.
The glass skywalk is a scenic viewpoint that was constructed in 2020, located in the front courtyard at the bottom of the Phu Khok Ngio Big Buddha image. It is 80 metres high above the Mekong River, or as high as a 30-storey building. This glass-floored walkway is 2 metres wide and 80 metres long, thus allowing panoramic views, including the point where the Hueang River merges with the Mekong River dividing Thai and Laotian territory. It's still early, and we consider what else we can do to fill in time that wasn't expected.
Nang Koy Beach....... Nang Koy means 'lady in waiting' but for many ladies they are not prepared to wait and have crowded onto the freshwater beach here only possible during the dry season March to May. The beach is located on a sharp bend of the Mekong River and every year when the Mekong floods, more sand and silk get deposited, carried down in the turbulent waters. This beach reminds me of the ones I visited in Ubon Ratchathani this time last year. On the beach, temporary restaurants are set up on the water's edge where today there is a lot of activity during Songkran celebrations with the symbolic spilling of water. This is huge business for local people who have to take advantage while they can. It's not for us however but just arriving here adds one more attraction to my list.
Chiang Khan....... As we return along the riverbank in the direction of Chiang Khan we stop to inquire about some land we spotted for sale. Any land directly on the riverbank would be completely out of the question; it would be just too expensive but what about the land on the other side of the road? Well, there are options which could squeeze into my budget range but there just isn't a strong enough argument for us to set ourselves up so far from Bangkok however grand the location is.
We take lunch in the town, somewhere Katoon is familiar with, which is different from usual and cheap. We continue along Walking Street and do a bit of shopping. It's quiet at the moment; it won't be later.
We now reach the eastern side of town where there is access to the beach with a similar setup to that at Nang Koy. I don't remember this from the past. However, on everyone's visit list who makes it to Chiang Khan are the rapids at Kaeng Khut Ku. I first came here in 2011 and it's definitely busier now; so much so that we can't find a parking space but there's no need for us to spend time here. Instead, we move further along the riverbank a treat ourselves to drinks at a popular coffee shop. It's really hot and I'm all for going back to the room for a nap but as we return, as if by magic the town springs to life with a full-blown water festival which pours cold water on any idea I had of some rest. Joining the procession through town, we are the only ones it seems, to avoid getting soaked through. For others, it would be failure if they didn't. This is the most important time of year for local people both practically and spiritually.
So with no rest for me, it's time to plan for the evening and the doctor and wife have arranged an evening meal with a difference. However, from here it's a 45-minute trip and it's a question of how many people will attend. We arrange to collect the aunt from Loei we first visited but cannot bring the number up beyond nine. That includes the rest of the doctor's family who have recently arrived at the airport.
Huai Krathing (Bull Lake)....... The arranged meeting point is at Huai Krathing (Bull Lake). This is a popular venue for dining on lake rafts, something I always fancied doing, but we soon run into a communications issue. Huai Krathing is a larger lake and has a number of raft service points. We end up at the wrong one and there is a 30 minute detour to retrace our steps.
When we arrive at the correct location the doctor and his family are already on the raft in the middle on the lake with enough food for at least 12-15 people. How has that worked? As far as he knew there were only 7 confirmed guests. We've added 2 more but there has to be a lot of wasted food which I will need to help pay for. It should be a glorious evening in magical surroundings but I'm still at odds with how the doctor and family have arranged things, firstly with accommodation, then the unnecessary use of fuel and lastly this arranged meal. The point is I've run down my cash reserves prior to departure for the UK and still have shopping to do. I obviously hadn't taken Songkran that seriously. A final irritation, my frailty makes it really difficult for me to get on and off the raft which has no seats. I just can't eat off the floor as Thais can!
At dusk the raft is brought to shore and there begins an ordeal for me to climb to shore using narrow planks. They do love leaving you with a feel for basic living without the basic living price. We make it back to Chiang Khan in good time but naturally there are discussion has to how this experience wasn't the best for me.
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