Day 11, Thursday, 14th March - Sungai-Kolok

Vintage Style....... The room here at Venice Place Hotel is actually quite spacious but the bed too small for the size of the room and the furnishing almost vintage. However the issue is with the bathroom where for the second time this trip there's a bath tub with a tank fed water supply. I don't think anything built this century hasn't had an electric shower fitted. On top of that the bath is really awkward for me to get in and out. Quite what happened yesterday when I booked this hotel online I don't know. Perhaps I was still sleepwalking.
Furthest Point....... We're now at the furthest point from Bangkok that we've ever been, some 1,180 km. away. It's remarkable considering that just a few weeks ago we were in Mae Sai in the north, a distance from here of 2,032 km. That's close to the entire length of the country. Now, if this is the furthest point then what is the plan? Of course there are some attractions here but I don't know that I will need a full day. Going back the way we came is pointless as we haven't covered much of the borderlands. The issue though is access and security in a remote and mountainous region of Thailand. Today needs careful planning but the bottom line is that we won't be staying at Venice Palace another night but that doesn't mean we will be leaving Sungai-Kolok. I'm just not satisfied enough has been achieved in this province yet.
With that in mind I book a room at another hotel which just happens to be a few hundred yards from Venice Palace. With that in the bank let's get touring and there's no better place to start than at the railway station where I'm hoping to see some trains.
Sungai-Kolok Railway Station....... When I arrive at Sungai-Kolok Railway Station there are two services due in the next hour. I need to wait since this will be the first time at this station. The first train to arrive is a Rapid service from Bangkok followed half an hour later by an Express service from the same station. In both cases the locomotive bringing in the train in will take the service back but only as far as Hat Yai. I've noticed already that it's normal for long distance trains changing engines there. This allows a full shift for the drivers but I also believe that the State Railway does not want to use its newest locomotives in an area prone to sabotage by extremists. It's time to have a look around the town before we venture further afield.
City Attractions....... Three attractions in quick succession are not far from the station. The first is the Street Art that's based on local culture, tradition and dress. The next involves the railway as we reach the Rantau Panjang (Sungai Golok Old Iron Railway Bridge) across the Golok River that connects Thailand with Malaysia. Near this is the Sirindhorn Park which takes its name from Princess Sirindhorn, daughter of the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX). This is a beautifully landscaped park used for recreation. The next location requires a drive north to reach another border attraction.
Mundok Central Market....... I arrive at Mundok (pronounced Monok) Central Market expecting it to be a thriving border market but all I see are mostly closed wooden shops in just one main street. I'm told that the market is closed today but how that fits on a Thursday I don't know. There are a few clothes and hardware shops open but what else I can't tell except that at least one other business type traded here when, in July 2023 at least nine people were killed while dozens of others were injured after a fireworks store in a market exploded. The market had closed for Covid.
Toh Daeng Peat Swamp Forest....... The Toh Daeng peat swamp forest is Thailand's last remaining pristine peat swamp forest, with a total area of 123,006 rai, with around 40% of the area consisting of dense forests. This area spreads over three districts, including Tak Bai, Sungai-Kolok, and Sungai Padi. This protected area has a research and visitors centre and the Toh Daeng Nature Trail consisting of a 1.095 km walkway through the swamp. The natural attraction is its wildlife including hornbills that populate this area. The water in the swamp is stagnant so fish that require oxygenated water cannot survive in the swamp full of algae. Parking is opposite the centre and entry is free.
It's time for lunch and for the second time in two days we find a roadside non-Islamic restaurant out in the districts and that will do nicely. We now arrive in Sungai Padi where I had hoped to be yesterday. Arriving from this direction is much safer I am told.
Wat Prachum Cholthara (Wat Sungai Padi)....... Wat Sungai Padi has a few older buildings from the 19th Century that are worthy of investigation but I know nothing of its history. In an article written in the Bangkok Post, the abbot of this temple graciously donated holy land to the Muslim community to build a mosque as a gesture of goodwill and help improve relations. Hmmmh, a bit of arm twisting maybe.
Sungai Padi Railway Station....... The main reason for coming to Sungai Padi though is to visit the train station but the arrival of trains here are not dictating the schedule I'm working to, so I just have to hope the timing works. Well, it does and in the nick of time a train arrives heading for Sungai Kolok and as it pulls into a siding I know another one is coming. This is an Express Train for Bangkok and I get two trains for the price of one visit and lose no time at all.
At this point the day has already been productive and when Katoon has no reservations about heading for one of Narathiwat's more remote locations I just know that this is finally the day it all comes together regarding my tour of Narathiwat Province. It's mid-afternoon as we head south into Waeng District.
Hala Bala Wildlife Sanctuary....... Hala-Bala Wildlife Sanctuary is a wildlife sanctuary considered to be one of the richest forests in Thailand in the southernmost part of the country. It is dubbed 'Amazon of Asean' and was officially established in 1996. Its area is about 270,725 rai (about 167.244 mi2) which covers the area of Titiwangsa Range and is adjacent to Belum-Temengor Reserve of Malaysia. The sanctuary is in two parts, Hala and Bala and it's the former that we are visiting. In this forest you may find up to 10 species of hornbill.
We arrive at the check-point and there is a 400 baht entry fee for foreigners but this is waived when my partner explains that we are just passing through. I have to put on record how helpful the sanctuary staff are. Once inside the park we can stop at a number of attractions but realistically we have time for only one.
Sirindhorn Waterfall....... Just a couple of hundred metres from the road, this waterfall is wonderful and as it is not far off gate closing, we become the last ones here. The waterfall lies in a steep gorge full of rich vegetation, a real botanist's dream. The most remarkable thing about this waterfall is that apart from the roar of rushing water the melody of sounds emanating from the tree canopy is exhilarating. This is truly a remarkable forest.
The distance through the forest is some 15 km, mostly single track due to encroaching vegetation but at its western end there is a gravel track just about passable for our vehicle. Then as we exit the sanctuary we are surprised to see the barrier down and Katoon calls the park office. After what seems to be ages a ranger arrives to fix that issue and then becomes our guide as we head for an attraction I never expected to reach.
Wat Phrathat Phu Khao Thong....... We are now in Sukhirin District and reach Wat Phrathat Phu Khao Thong on the border with Malaysia. The old stupa here sits proudly on a hilltop with an amazing view looking across into Malaysia. It's a privilege indeed to reach this temple and establishes this day as one of the most amazing so far. I can now rest assured that I've covered this fascinating province effectively. There remains one more attraction that our guide wishes us to see.
Batu Sempadan Negara....... Batu Sempadan Negara is a boundary marker or rather two as a newer one has been built next to it. Here right on the border is barbed wire with a Malay sentry post. Quite what the guard would do if I jumped through the gate I don't know. I'm told that they are not the most friendly individuals. Maybe that's due to boredom. Nothing much happens here.
There's now the one-hour trip back to Sungai-Kolok, and we won't quite reach it before dark. So it's another late arrival at our accommodation, but we're soon checked in at Merlin Hotel then as if by magic the quality of the room is much better than last night. I'm told that the hotel has only just reopened after renovation. The room is a good size and practical. However, the bathroom still has the old plumbing and is really too small for the room size.
Tonight I don't even go out, letting Katoon find some food. I know I will struggle tonight with these notes as my attention is diverted by the Third Starship Test Flight steamed on YouTube.
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