Day 4, 12th February - Chiang Mai
A Reset....... After deliberation overnight concerning my failed attempt to watch the Lamphun Warriors v Buriram United game I decide to put all my remaining eggs in one basket and go for the fixture at Chiang Rai on Thursday. It makes no sense to double back three and a half hours so soon after that game. The Provincial Stadium here in Lamphun doesn't look that comfortable to me and has a limited lifespan anyway. I'm better off looking at the big picture and concentrate my efforts on Chiang Rai and the borderlands of Chiang Mai which have been hard to reach on previous visits.
More Lamphun Temples....... Today things should be quieter after a busy weekend as we head for whatever they call 'breakfast included' at Easy Hotel 1. I'm told there is rice soup but as long as I can get a coffee and some toast I'll be quite happy. I can always add something from my knapsack. That over, we're packed and ready at a much more comfortable 10am. As for what else is on the menu I have to check on what's been covered before in Lamphun. Due to previous coverage here I would be happy to leave it at that but on checking I managed to come up with a shortlist of four temples. However I don't intend to spend another night here, so I'm planning to head for Chiang Mai later.
Lamphun Railway Station....... Affording ourselves the luxury of a later start there's a little business to take care of first as I head to Lamphun Railway Station. I'm aware I've just missed a local train but let's just turn up anyway. There's nothing to report unfortunately but the last time I was here they still needed a bank engine to take trains up to Khun Tan but more about that later. Let's get these temple boxes ticked.
Just one of the temples on my list is in the City District, two are in Pa Sang District and the last is in the more remote Ban Thi District. Having the luxury of a later start we head for the one in the City District first.
Wat Phra Yuen....... Legend has it that Queen Chamatewi, the first ruler of Hariphunchai the former name of Lamphun, ordered this temple built in 670 AD, after she had ruled for eight years. However, some historians believe that King Amikaraj of Hariphunchai built this temple in 1370. The king added three more larger standing Buddha statues and built a mondrop to house them. Officially named Wat Aranyikaram, the temple houses a chedi with four Buddha images in standing posture facing the four directions. The arched roof is topped with round bell shaped ornamental finials and architecture similar to that of Bagan in Burma and Wat Pa Sak in Chiang Rai. Between 1900 and 1907 the original structure was replaced by the current chedi.
In front of the chedi is an impressive sermon hall in Lanna style the type which I consider one of the most beautiful in Thailand.
We now head into Pa Sang District towards another historic site. However, to spoil the party as we follow the flow of the Ping River there is a small chedi that I just have to record.
Chedi Mon That Kut (Pak Bong)....... The Fine Arts Department excavated this chedi in 2010 and found a bell-shaped chedi on an octagonal base with the base of a viharn next to it to the east.
It was found to have been built in two periods, one on top of the other. The first was a bell-shaped Chedi on an octagonal base and the later one was a renovation of the former one by enlarging the base. The bell-shaped body was decorated with a stucco design of Mon Burmese art. Many small votive Buddha images made from baked clay in the Mandalay (Burmese) style was found enabling dating of the structures to around the 16th Century. Now lets put ourselves back on track.
Kho Klang Archeological Site....... The Kho Klang Archeological Site consists of a group of ancient structures located in Ban Nong Du-Bo Khao in Tambon Ban Ruean. It is a community that belongs to the last of the ethnic Mon people who live in Lamphun today. According to a tale, handed down by word of mouth this group of old structures was built by a millionaire named In Ta who was from the ethnic Mon lineage the father of Queen Chamathewi the first ruler of Hariphunchai. The site was deserted until 1972 when it was renovated and since 1979 the Department of Religion has named it a temple for monks to reside in.
Arriving at this site is music to my ears and confirms that however hard I might try I will never be able to visit and catalogue every ancient site in Thailand. This impressive group of ruins has been broken down into seven distinct buildings each with its own piece of history. These are:
Main Chedi at Wat Ko Klang, Wihan Luang (main chapel), the Mondrop, the Ubosot of Ko Klang, the Mondrop in the Water, Noen Mae Mai and Chedi Mai Tha.
One more temple in Pa Sang District not far away receives my attention.
Wat Nong Ngueak....... The name of this temple means 'serpent in the lake' and is built in Yong style which originates from Burma now Myanmar. It is an ancient temple that displays the craftsmanship of the local artisans. Items of interest include stucco art on the temple’s doorway and Hor Trai (scripture hall).
It's in the village we take lunch and the first traditional northern dish, Kow Soi. This is a spicy curry soup with soft and crispy noodles and jolly tasty too.
Finally, in the village I should mention the OTOP weaving centre. On display are some vintage weaving equipment and there is a woven cloth outlet here too. Although small, there are some enchanting restaurants here for those who appreciate local food.
Prathat Doi Hang Bat....... At last, we make some progress towards Chiang Mai but deviate a little to locate the last temple for today. Heading northeast we see that majestic Doi Khun Tan mountain range in the distance but our destination is on a small hill in Ban Thi District. From a distance the prathat (chedi) can be seen at the summit. The main temple building is at the base of the hill but the prathat is accessed by a poorly paved winding road.
Prathat Doi Hang Bat is a square shaped white stupa with a white spire crowned by golden chatra. The founder and the construction date remain unknown. Legend has it that the Buddha, during his lifetime, paid a visit to the hill where the temple would later be founded and prepared his alms bowl for a daily alms round. In the local dialect, the act of preparing an alms bowl is called 'hang bat'.
From the outset we realise that this temple is neglected. There is simply insufficient alms to keep this temple in good order and there is the air of decay at this temple, yet a few faithful souls do make it here. Clearly there were good days here but I guess the business of saving souls is pretty competitive these days.
It's time to head into Chiang Mai and although we haven't booked accommodation on this occasion we have somewhere in mind and there is no fear that it will be fully booked on a Monday.
At the Station Hotel....... When I first looked at this hotel I was impressed by its location right next to the railway station. To have immediate access to this important terminal station is such a blessing. The only downside to this hotel is the price. When I looked it up my dear companion presumed I would not go for it but weighing everything up it's actually cost effective due to the fact that there's a buffet breakfast and no need to pay for fuel or going searching for dinner. The day itself has been free from the need to put fuel in the tank so it's easy on my budget but in any case the opportunities to eat in this region for small money is quite impressive. The room of course is as it should be. I'm most impressed.
Chiang Mai Railway Station....... Arriving in Chiang Mai at a comfortable 4.00pm it's now just a matter of seeing what's going on at the railway station. Immediately there are two night trains waiting to depart. That will do very nicely for starters. Then, waiting for the special express trains to depart an oil train rumbles out of the station. With the addition of two stationary locomotives it's a great result as I capture excellent videos for my YouTube channel. With all this going on I've almost forgotten about dinner and I should not be surprised to learn that once the night trains have departed the nearby restaurants are all but deserted and wrapping things up for the day. Oh! well there's 7-Eleven isn't there?
Better Vibes....... Today has been highly productive and light on budget and as I retire to At the Station Hotel my mood is truly positive compared to last night. As a check on how things are progressing so far, we haven't reached the main areas requiring attention, yet I've still managed to plug away in areas we've previously visited securing more content for my website.
Next Page.
A Reset....... After deliberation overnight concerning my failed attempt to watch the Lamphun Warriors v Buriram United game I decide to put all my remaining eggs in one basket and go for the fixture at Chiang Rai on Thursday. It makes no sense to double back three and a half hours so soon after that game. The Provincial Stadium here in Lamphun doesn't look that comfortable to me and has a limited lifespan anyway. I'm better off looking at the big picture and concentrate my efforts on Chiang Rai and the borderlands of Chiang Mai which have been hard to reach on previous visits.
More Lamphun Temples....... Today things should be quieter after a busy weekend as we head for whatever they call 'breakfast included' at Easy Hotel 1. I'm told there is rice soup but as long as I can get a coffee and some toast I'll be quite happy. I can always add something from my knapsack. That over, we're packed and ready at a much more comfortable 10am. As for what else is on the menu I have to check on what's been covered before in Lamphun. Due to previous coverage here I would be happy to leave it at that but on checking I managed to come up with a shortlist of four temples. However I don't intend to spend another night here, so I'm planning to head for Chiang Mai later.
Lamphun Railway Station....... Affording ourselves the luxury of a later start there's a little business to take care of first as I head to Lamphun Railway Station. I'm aware I've just missed a local train but let's just turn up anyway. There's nothing to report unfortunately but the last time I was here they still needed a bank engine to take trains up to Khun Tan but more about that later. Let's get these temple boxes ticked.
Just one of the temples on my list is in the City District, two are in Pa Sang District and the last is in the more remote Ban Thi District. Having the luxury of a later start we head for the one in the City District first.
Wat Phra Yuen....... Legend has it that Queen Chamatewi, the first ruler of Hariphunchai the former name of Lamphun, ordered this temple built in 670 AD, after she had ruled for eight years. However, some historians believe that King Amikaraj of Hariphunchai built this temple in 1370. The king added three more larger standing Buddha statues and built a mondrop to house them. Officially named Wat Aranyikaram, the temple houses a chedi with four Buddha images in standing posture facing the four directions. The arched roof is topped with round bell shaped ornamental finials and architecture similar to that of Bagan in Burma and Wat Pa Sak in Chiang Rai. Between 1900 and 1907 the original structure was replaced by the current chedi.
In front of the chedi is an impressive sermon hall in Lanna style the type which I consider one of the most beautiful in Thailand.
We now head into Pa Sang District towards another historic site. However, to spoil the party as we follow the flow of the Ping River there is a small chedi that I just have to record.
Chedi Mon That Kut (Pak Bong)....... The Fine Arts Department excavated this chedi in 2010 and found a bell-shaped chedi on an octagonal base with the base of a viharn next to it to the east.
It was found to have been built in two periods, one on top of the other. The first was a bell-shaped Chedi on an octagonal base and the later one was a renovation of the former one by enlarging the base. The bell-shaped body was decorated with a stucco design of Mon Burmese art. Many small votive Buddha images made from baked clay in the Mandalay (Burmese) style was found enabling dating of the structures to around the 16th Century. Now lets put ourselves back on track.
Kho Klang Archeological Site....... The Kho Klang Archeological Site consists of a group of ancient structures located in Ban Nong Du-Bo Khao in Tambon Ban Ruean. It is a community that belongs to the last of the ethnic Mon people who live in Lamphun today. According to a tale, handed down by word of mouth this group of old structures was built by a millionaire named In Ta who was from the ethnic Mon lineage the father of Queen Chamathewi the first ruler of Hariphunchai. The site was deserted until 1972 when it was renovated and since 1979 the Department of Religion has named it a temple for monks to reside in.
Arriving at this site is music to my ears and confirms that however hard I might try I will never be able to visit and catalogue every ancient site in Thailand. This impressive group of ruins has been broken down into seven distinct buildings each with its own piece of history. These are:
Main Chedi at Wat Ko Klang, Wihan Luang (main chapel), the Mondrop, the Ubosot of Ko Klang, the Mondrop in the Water, Noen Mae Mai and Chedi Mai Tha.
One more temple in Pa Sang District not far away receives my attention.
Wat Nong Ngueak....... The name of this temple means 'serpent in the lake' and is built in Yong style which originates from Burma now Myanmar. It is an ancient temple that displays the craftsmanship of the local artisans. Items of interest include stucco art on the temple’s doorway and Hor Trai (scripture hall).
It's in the village we take lunch and the first traditional northern dish, Kow Soi. This is a spicy curry soup with soft and crispy noodles and jolly tasty too.
Finally, in the village I should mention the OTOP weaving centre. On display are some vintage weaving equipment and there is a woven cloth outlet here too. Although small, there are some enchanting restaurants here for those who appreciate local food.
Prathat Doi Hang Bat....... At last, we make some progress towards Chiang Mai but deviate a little to locate the last temple for today. Heading northeast we see that majestic Doi Khun Tan mountain range in the distance but our destination is on a small hill in Ban Thi District. From a distance the prathat (chedi) can be seen at the summit. The main temple building is at the base of the hill but the prathat is accessed by a poorly paved winding road.
Prathat Doi Hang Bat is a square shaped white stupa with a white spire crowned by golden chatra. The founder and the construction date remain unknown. Legend has it that the Buddha, during his lifetime, paid a visit to the hill where the temple would later be founded and prepared his alms bowl for a daily alms round. In the local dialect, the act of preparing an alms bowl is called 'hang bat'.
From the outset we realise that this temple is neglected. There is simply insufficient alms to keep this temple in good order and there is the air of decay at this temple, yet a few faithful souls do make it here. Clearly there were good days here but I guess the business of saving souls is pretty competitive these days.
It's time to head into Chiang Mai and although we haven't booked accommodation on this occasion we have somewhere in mind and there is no fear that it will be fully booked on a Monday.
At the Station Hotel....... When I first looked at this hotel I was impressed by its location right next to the railway station. To have immediate access to this important terminal station is such a blessing. The only downside to this hotel is the price. When I looked it up my dear companion presumed I would not go for it but weighing everything up it's actually cost effective due to the fact that there's a buffet breakfast and no need to pay for fuel or going searching for dinner. The day itself has been free from the need to put fuel in the tank so it's easy on my budget but in any case the opportunities to eat in this region for small money is quite impressive. The room of course is as it should be. I'm most impressed.
Chiang Mai Railway Station....... Arriving in Chiang Mai at a comfortable 4.00pm it's now just a matter of seeing what's going on at the railway station. Immediately there are two night trains waiting to depart. That will do very nicely for starters. Then, waiting for the special express trains to depart an oil train rumbles out of the station. With the addition of two stationary locomotives it's a great result as I capture excellent videos for my YouTube channel. With all this going on I've almost forgotten about dinner and I should not be surprised to learn that once the night trains have departed the nearby restaurants are all but deserted and wrapping things up for the day. Oh! well there's 7-Eleven isn't there?
Better Vibes....... Today has been highly productive and light on budget and as I retire to At the Station Hotel my mood is truly positive compared to last night. As a check on how things are progressing so far, we haven't reached the main areas requiring attention, yet I've still managed to plug away in areas we've previously visited securing more content for my website.
Next Page.
Lamphun Province
Lamphun Railway Station, Lamphun
Wat Phra Yuen, Wiang Yong,
Mueang Lamphun District
Chedi Mon That Kut (Pak Bong),
Pa Sang District
Chedi Mae Tha, Kho Klang Archeological Site
Pa Sang District
Kho Klang Archeological Site, Pa Sang District
Wat Nong Ngueak, Pa Sang District
Ban Nong Nguak Textile Centre,
Pa Sang District
Prathat Doi Hang Bat, Ban Thi District
Chiang Mai Province
Chiang Mai Railway Station, Chiang Mai