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TOUR (19A) BANGKOK - 26th April 2019

BTS Sukhumvit Line (Green Line) at Victory Monument, Bangkok


Friday 26 April

Introduction……..These words are the first in now my 9th year of this website and as normal form part of the introduction to a new or series of new tours: Normally there are two visits to Thailand per year with up to three tours in each. The first tour, sometimes the only tour, typically starts with the preparations needed for the entire visit. However the preparations for this latest visit to Thailand include the maximum three tours over the course of seven weeks. This could easily result in the highest number of days spent in one visit based in Bangkok. As such I just get the feeling that this introduction will need a page all of its own. So let’s get started.
Limitations…….. For the second year running I’m arriving in Thailand in April, although two weeks later than last year, missing out on Songkran due to family commitments in the UK. However the limitations are the same; it’s still in the hot dry season in Thailand. Just before I arrived the temperature soared to well over 40 Deg. Celsius in the North. Anything more than the mid 30’s is bound to make touring very uncomfortable for me. However the monsoon rains may well arrive during my first tour, providing some respite.
Change of plan…….. The first task after arriving in Thailand is to visit the money changers in Pradiphat Road, best accessed from Suphan Kwai BTS Station. As mentioned on numerous occasions in the past, carrying larger amounts of cash is a matter of personal choice but it works for me. The rates of exchange are the best available and I’ve never had a security issue in Thailand. In fact I feel less safe on the carrier airline. Common sense is the watchword here.
As I awake and plan the trip downtown, it starts to look likely that this will not be in initial visit of the day due the nature of the planned tours this time around. For the first time for over two years, I will be leaving Thailand at the halfway point; this time heading for the Republic of Myanmar on a 5-day tour based in Yangoon. As opposed to Thai visa runs, I certainly need a Myanmar visa for this. While I need this visa for personal travel - I’ve already booked accommodation in Yangoon - I’m aware that this website is public and what I experience may be of use to others. Before I arrived in Thailand, I figured that as I need to go downtown anyway, I may as well obtain my visa from the Myanmar consulate. Due to their published opening times, it seems that I will need to head for the consulate first.
Myanmar visa…….. With the change of plan, so the initial aiming point is altered. Instead of heading for Suphan Kwai, I order a passenger van for the transport hub at Victory Monument. From here it’s a trip on the Skytrain (BTS) to Surasak Station requiring a change at Siam Square. From here the consulate should be within walking distance but Katoon orders two motorbike taxis for understandable reasons. The fierce heat which was expected has become unbearable. From this point plans begin to unravel further as we’re dropped off with no sign of the consulate nearby. Several enquiries draw a blank and we end up back where we started. All that’s nearby is a tour/visa office. What happens next sends my head spinning and invalidates the information I obtained online as well as my own assumptions. Firstly the consulate has closed here or at least has been moved but the agent can still process an application. However the cost of the visa is now 1,600 baht, up from 1,280: Then there’s the agent’s visa processing fee of 600 baht. Moreover, I won’t get my passport back for three working days although it will be sent by secure mai and left with a neighbourl. That doesn’t help a lot since we were planning to be on tour by then but at least the first tour is within Thailand. A minor inconvenience could arise as hotels often ask for my passport. At least I have photocopies I can use.


Victory Monument, Bangkok's Transport Hub

With Katoon making arrangements, the process is now irreversible but we don’t even have enough money between us to pay the extra as Katoon goes scuttling off to an ATM machine. I just feel I’ve let down my own standards, left with egg on by face but then again, I’ve been through a lot more than this on my tours. The advice I need to give as a result of this experience will now have to wait to appear in my notes or conclusions later but for the moment there seems to be an explanation for the price hike and for the closure. With Myanmar now part of ASEAN, Thais have free entry for 14 days. So basically Myanamar doesn’t have enough money to pay it’s immigration staff!. It’s time for lunch.
Wat Sri Maha Uma Devi (Wat Khaek Silom)…….. Simply known as Wat Khaek (Hindu Temple) to locals, this temple is at the opposite end of Pan Road, on the corner with Silom Road in Khet Bang Rak district. It was identified as a place of interest nay pilgrimage by Katoon and one of the reasons why this day warrants a page of its own.
Wat Sri Maha Uma Devi was founded during the reign of King Rama IV by members of the Southern Indian community who immigrated originally to the South of Thailand and then moved to the Silom Canal. The temple was built as a place to worship Uma in accordance with Shaktism, one of the denominations of Hinduism, which has many followers. It is believed that the Devis, who are the consorts of Hindu gods, are the source of power for their husbands. The popular Devis are, for example, Uma, the consort of Shiva; Lakshmi, the consort of Vishnu, and Saraswati, the consort of Brahma.

Wat Sri Maha Uma Devi (Wat Khaek Silom)

Cashing In…….. This deviation complete, the final chore for the day can can now be undertaken as we make our way back towards Suphan Kwai via bus 77 and the BTS system. At Linda Exchange the whole of my UK currency is exchanged despite the pitiful rate. I’ve no confidence that the rate will improve until there is a major change in government or direction in the UK. From Suphan Kwai there is a bus 26 that will take us to Kilo 8 just 2 kilometres from base. At least the 26 is air-conditioned but I’m completely drained and seem to have nodded off but there’s been just enough consciousness for me to observe one more thing hardly mentioned on previous trips to Bangkok.
Green Line Extension…….. Part of the journey today is on the Green Line Skytrain also known as the BTS Sukhumvit Line. It opened in 1999 as part of the initial skytrain project covering the downtown districts but only in the last decade has there been extensions to this line. While the southern extension is now open well to the south of the city into Samut Prakan Province, the northern extension is still under construction. As the bus 26 makes its way north along Phahonyothin Road, so does the northern extension connecting to the present terminus at Mochit. This 16 station extension continuing as far as Khu Khot, is due to open in 2020. With initial structures now in place along the Phahonyothin Road, users of the section of road can enjoy some relief.
Pink Line…….. At Wat Phra Sri Mahathat, the bus 26 turns east along the Ramintra Road. As we head for Kilo 8 (literally 8 kilometres) east along this road, the construction of the Pink Line has already started, in turn causing congestion for users of this route. The Pink Line will connect with the Green Line at Wat Phra Sri Mahathat but this line, understood to be light-rail will not open until 2022. Yet the majority of concrete pylons are either complete or under construction. Based on the construction progress on other lines, I would expect the concrete supports to be completed this year with the elevated track-bed installed in 2020. The less visible laying of track, signalling and power distribution will continue after that with the addition and testing of rolling stock completing the project due to open in 2022. Of course the Pink Line is of interest to me as I would be based just 10 minutes from Km 8 station allowing easy access into the city in some comfort. However the line is bound to be more expensive than using passenger vans and busses so I’m intrigued as to how it will be used. Finally I can call it a day and enjoy a late siesta with the more challenging preparations for this trip out of the way. Tomorrow is a rest day but the day after (Sunday 28th) the first tour starts in earnest.
Conclusion…….. The simple conclusion to this day's events is that there is clearly a more cost effective way of obtaining a visa for Myanmar than the route I chose. No doubt I will explore the options later as future trips to Myanmar are not ruled out at this stage.