Day 13 - Sunday 30 November 2014, Nan

Friction.....After a rather frustrating day yesterday I'm pleased to announce that Coconut Resort has provided me with the most comfortable bed so far this trip; so much so that I have to question the wisdom of vacating it to write these notes. However, I am still on tour and the question of what to do next, fully occupies my mind. I'm also trying to come to terms with some issues that are causing friction with my partner. These centre round selection of sites for this tour and such a basic thing as accommodation. Also my driving technique and preferences are being questioned while I prefer my co-driver to concentrate more on map reading. I'm not sure the latter can be addressed that easily but certainly as regards tour planning I'm starting to believe this tour is simply a victim of its own success. When I decided to hire a car for this tour I just knew that it would open many doors for me. Quite how massive the implications of that have proved to be has caught me totally by surprise. In Phetchabun Province I drew up a plan to cover the parks, in particular, systematically. I've tried to do that in Nan but here the parks are so huge and borderlands so remote that to cover them in four or five days is challenging. The pressure is on because of this. How can I say I've adequately covered the area? With my co-driver feeling the effects of wilderness conditions and yearning for some home comforts, I really have no choice but to switch into compromise mode and make some decisions as to what to leave out. However, I will do my very best to take in one more park today but quite where I will end up this evening is in the lap of the gods. The downbeat mood continues as I see Chelsea have been held at Sunderland. I'm in need of a pick-me-up today!
Day 13 underway.....As I begin my tour there's no real debate on its direction. It's still reasonably early at 9.45 am. Almost immediately there's something of interest as I head back into town so grateful for daylight. To the right before a bridge is a peaceful drive along the river bank. The water looks like a small lake but as I travel further along a cement road I can see that it's caused by a weir. It looks a peaceful spot for simply doing nothing. In Thailand there is a thankful habit of building small wooden pagodas with seats for recreation or travel at any spot that warrants one. As there is nothing in English I can use I ask what the signboards refer to. I gather it's the site of an old lignite mine, and now I know this I see evidence of water from the river being diverted through a culvert. I understand that the area is to be further developed for recreation. I learn that this is the Yang River here, a tributary of the great Nan River nearby. Otherwise, I'm at a loss to learn more. I head into the town then see signboards to something I can relate to from my guide maps.
Thai Lue Village.....A few kilometres from Tha Wang Pha is the Thai Lue village. I can't suddenly produce an archive off the top of my head, but I do remember from my visit to Nan museum that the Thai Lue is one of the ethnic minority groups found in Nan Province. They originate from Yunnan in southwest China. Most people entering the village will head for the temple, Wat Nong Bua. It was built in 1862 during the reign of King Rama V by Thai Lue craftsmen. Inside the temple there are wall murals that were believed to have been painted more than one hundred years ago. This is by no means all you need to know about the village. A traditional Thai Lue house is given over as a cultural museum and there are handicrafts available for visitors to buy. The visitors may also be treated to the sound of traditional music played by skilled musicians using contemporary instruments. In addition, the temple grounds are laid out to give the visitor a wealth of photo opportunities. It's more than I expected to see here, and a good hour should be allowed in such a peaceful setting. I note there is no indication of leaving Nan Province anytime soon, and I now assume that I will be staying in the province for a further night.
Santisuk Waterfall.....However, before too long I see a sign to a waterfall. The signboard is not in English, but I see it's 2.5 kilometres down a narrow concrete read. Ok that's going to delay me about half an hour. As I reach the base of the falls it's deserted and there's nothing really to see, and I'm thinking of heading back. There is however, a natural feel to the place as colourful butterflies flit around. Then the complexion of the day changes as a family of day trippers arrives. About ten bodies pile out of the pick-up truck. They're heading into the forest to visit the falls. As I've no idea of what lies ahead, it obviously makes sense to ask. The head of the family explains that there are 3 levels to the falls, none of which are visible from my position. But wait! Where is the trail? I'm told that the trip up the falls will take 20–30 minutes and is well worth the effort. What to do, should I follow them? They seem to have put down a challenge and I get the nod from Katoon to proceed. The trail starts by crossing the fast flowing stream. No wonder I couldn't see the start point. This will not be the only time this is necessary. After a short but very steep climb the first level of the waterfall comes into view. It's a 50-metre drop into a rock pool but just a few metres wide. With wet sandals from crossing the stream I realise my footwear is not ideal for this trek and the steepness of the climb is causing some concern. It's more challenging than ever I can remember, but I make it to the second level where I note things hardly getting easier. I consider turning back, but the family has disappeared well ahead. Should I let this trek break my spirit? It's a final effort to the third level where not only is there a rock pool but a small cave as well, partially flooded. It's a marvelous photo opportunity I'm glad I didn't miss. On the way back I make some adjustments including removing my sandals in places. It really is tricky crossing the stream. As I arrive back at the base I'm in awe of my compatriots who had to endure these conditions for months on end during WW2. This unscheduled activity has thrown all my immediate plans out of the window. I've yet to reach the park itself and it's already lunchtime.
Nanthaburi National Park.....When I eventually reach it there is good and bad news. In this quieter park there is no ticket office on this route that I can see, although I'm told there is accommodation here. The bad news is that to reach the summit of Doi Wow inside the park requires another 4.5 kilometres. The road now is reduced to a dirt track. I conclude that this is unsuitable for the Nissan, although I would be happy if I had a 4 X 4. It's so near yet so far. I'm ready to head back. However, the road maps I'm using are not detailed enough to confirm whether or not this is a through route. Katoon thinks it might be, and I press on for another 20 minutes. This offers splendid views but in the end the road just peters out at a small village in the mountains. A group of motorcyclists have also made it this far, but I'm not sure their ambitions were as strong as mine. I've wasted about 40 minutes. It's time to head back but the drain on my time today is sure to cause the termination of the day trip. By the time I reach Tha Wang Pha lunch is very, very overdue. It's 4.15pm. This latest expedition has only fueled my ongoing concerns about coverage of Nan Province in these notes. I stop for food, whatever the time of day.
Sukthaihome.....Thankfully, after better sleep last night I'm still alert enough to anticipate that I might arrive late at suitable accommodation and incur the tiresome ritual of finding somewhere to eat as well. There have been no rooms on this tour so far that have a restaurant. Feeling pleased with myself for ordering a takeaway to consume later at selected accommodation I hand the driving to Katoon to guide us on the final leg today. Although it's gone 4.30 pm we continue south and reach the outskirts of Nan just after 5pm. Very shortly a motel appears on the left. It's of a type I used on the way here. This one however, seems more comfortable and has a fridge! As I look around at what this motel offers, my mouth drops. Loading up with rice in polystyrene trays I just don't believe it! Yes you guessed it! This one has restaurant. Doh! Still around 6pm I've settled in. As I sum up the day I'm reasonably pleased that I stayed in Nan Province for that extra day matching what I did in Phetchabun Province. As the day ends, there may still be excursions here tomorrow morning but after that I really must head south.
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