Day 3 - Saturday 17 December 2016

Chuanchom Resort........photo.... After a better night’s sleep I move quickly to add some flesh on the bones I dug up yesterday but I’m far from finished before it’s time for breakfast. The tour list for today in Sukhothai Historic Park is half that from yesterday but the sites are mainly outside the old city walls so I’m not expecting to complete my visits until after lunch. One thing in my favour is the weather. As I go for breakfast it’s really cool. Returning to the room I’m packed and ready to depart by 9.30am. The owner at Chuanchom Resort has been quite helpful and generally we’ve had good value for money.
Sukhothai Historic Park Day 2........The emphasis today is on the temples outside the old city walls and we begin with the southern sector then moving back around the old city to the temples in and around the northern gate which were missed yesterday. Apart from one site to the east, the rest are to the west in or near the Aranyik forest. With more idea of orientation the remaining sites are signed off quickly and rather unexpectedly there’s time to add more sights. When we finally stop for lunch in the marketplace near the park entrance it’s still only 1.30am. It’s another fine effort today whatever else happens but I’m starting to feel the effects with tiredness setting in. It’s no wonder. As with yesterday some of the sites are on top of mounds as much as 200 metres high. There is also swelling around the big toe on my left foot causing some pain while walking, no doubt through use of inappropriate footwear. The lunch break at least gives us chance to take stock and finalise movements for the afternoon. In the meantime here is a list of the remaining site visits in the park today.

Outer Monuments South
Namo Gate........The Namo Gate is in the middle of the southern wall, one of the four access gates into the old city as described by stone inscription No 1. This gate has a defensive tower projecting from the wall.

Wat Kon Laeng........Wat Kon Laeng lies 600 metres south of the Namo Gate. This small temple consists of a main chedi on an elevated base similar in the shape to a lotus bud in laterite. An assembly hall (viharn) and subordinate chedis are of brick.

Wat Chedi Si Hon........Situated south of the city wall and 100 m. to the east of Wat Chetapon, Wat Chedi Si Hon consists of an assebly hall (viharn), a main chedi and subordinate chedis. Relief stuccos around the base of the main chedi depict men and women in different attire with ornaments. Thier hands hold vessels with flora symbolising fertility and prosperity. Decorative stuccos also include elephants and lion (simba) images.

Wat Chetuphon........Situated outside the city wall to the south, Wat Chetuphon is famous for its four Buddha images of vast size in different postures (sitting, reclining, standing and walking) enshrined in a mandapa with porches on four sides. To the west is another small mandapa with 20 indented corners. Traces of a Buddha image in the posture of subduing Mara were found here. The exterior wall features black floral designs like those on Chinese ware. Also remarkable is the boundary wall with porches. The wall has a frame and balustrade made from slabs of thick slate.

Monuments in or near Northern Gate
Ta Pha Daeng Shrine........Ta Pha Daeng Shrine is adjacent to the Tra Kuan reservoir and the northern city gate. The ancient monument was seen on a map in the reign of Rama V and was known as Theparak Yai Shrine or Ta Pha Daeng Shrine The laterite shrine was built in Khmer style on a base with lotus moulding. During excavation by the Fine Arts Department, fragments of god and godess images adorned with beautiful ornaments were discovered. These finds have been connected with Bayon style during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (1181-1220).

Wat Son Khao........Wat Son Khao lies inside the city wall close to the northern gate and Wat Sorasak. This temple is well-known for its lotus bud shaped chedi presently in ruins Beside the chedi there is an assembly hall (viharn), a mandapa housing a Buddha image and two subordinate chedis. All these are surounded by a wall and moat. There is no mention of this temple on any stone inscriptions. Wat Son Khao is the name bestowed by local residents.

San Luang Gate........San Luang is the name of the northern gate into the old city. An inscription mentions that in this area was a dry goods market, a Phra Ajana Buddha image and praset or palace. At present the fort walls and moats are still well preserved. Just outside the gate is the ruined chedi at Wat Traphang Phan.

Wat Mae Chon........Wat Mae Chon lies next to the northern gate to the east of Wat Phra Phai Luang along Muang Kao - Nong Ta Chot Road To the northeast of the temple is an ancient well lined with slate about 1 m. in diameter. The temple comprises an assembly hall (viharn) and three subordinate chedis. The sitting Buddha has been renovated.

Wat Sorasak........Wat Sorasak lies inside the city wall near Wat Son Khao. There is a stone inscription which relates to Nai Intha Sorasak who was granted a piece of land by the Sukhothai governor in order to build a temple dedicated to him. After completion an uncle of the governor was invited to reside there. The story as it continues indicates that the palace of the Sukhothai royalty was located there.

Outer Monuments West
Or Gate........The western gate of the old city is known as the Or Gate and is particularly well preserved. From this gate a cluster of temples to the west lying in or near the foothills in the Aranyik forest are of particular interest. In this direction also is the Saritphong reservoir from which the city drew it water supply.

Wat Tuk........Wat Tuk is lacated outside the city wall to the west near Thewalai Mahakaset and Wat Pa Mamuang. The monument consists of a mandapa, an assembly hall (viharn) and 13 subordinate chedis. This temple has never been mentioned in any documents and only old photographs of its relief stucco serve as evidence for this temple.

Thewalai Mahakaset........Thewalai Mahakaset is situated outside the city wall to the west. It has a squre shrine in the shape of a mandapa built of brick. It was mentioned in the stone inscription found at Wat Pa Mamuang. According to the inscription made by Phra Maha Dharmaraja Li Thai in 1361 images of the gods Shiva and Vishnu were placed by him in the shrine in 1349 for Brahmins to worship. Examples of these images can be seen at the National Museum in Bangkok and the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum in Sukhothai.

Wat Pasak........Wat Pasak is located to the northwest of Thewalai Mahakaset. The monument consists of the base of an ordination hall (ubosot) just 10 metres long surrounded by 12 bases for boundary stones (Sema) made of slate. To the north are the base of an assembly hall (viharn) and the ruin of a chedi made of brick.

Wat Pa Mamuang........Located to the west of the old city, Wat Pa Mamuang is mentioned in serveral stone inscriptions of the Sukhothai period. Stone inscription No 6 was found at this temple and refers to the importance of this temple as a place where Phra Maha Dharmaraja Li Thai was ordained as a priest in 1361. The remains of buildings in this monument include an assembly hall (viharn), an ordination hall (ubosot), a main chedi and subordinate chedis. There is an obvious connection with Thewalai Mahakaset nearby where images of Hindu gods were found.

Wat Mangkon........Wat Mangkon lies at the intersection connecting Wat Saphan Hin and the Saritphong Dam. Unique to this temple are the glazed bars of Sangkalok on the inner wall. The name of the temple derives from sculptures of Sangkalok Makara found there. Within the temple compound the base of the ordination hall (ubosot) has two niches at front and back surrounded with boundary stones while a sizable bell-shaped chedi lies to the north of the chapel. Several smaller chedis are located both inside and outside of the compound.

Saritphong Dam........To the west of Sukhothai is a row of hills pleasing to the eye known as the Prathak Range. This verdant area serves as receptacle for rainwater. A large earthwork was constructed in ancient times between two hills to store and funnel water for irrigation and water supply to the old town via the Sao Ho canal. The dyke is believed to be the one mentioned in Stone Inscription No. 1.

Wat Tham Hip Lang........Wat Tham Hip Lang is located adjacent to Wat Tham Hip Bon on a mound and consists of a bell-shaped chedi and assembly hall (viharn) constructed mainly of stone and laterite. A stone walkway leads up to the temple mound.

Wat Tham Hip Bon........Wat Tham Hip Bon is located near Wat Tham Hip Lang on a mound. The monument consists of a bell-shaped subordinate chedi, a laterite assembly hall (viharn), a bell-shaped main chedi with four niches, two brick buildings for monks to practice meditation and other minor chedis.

Wat Chedi Ngam........Wat Chedi Ngam (right) is situated on a mound reached by a slate pathway. Important structures include a bell-shaped chedi on a large square base with porches to enshrine Buddha images on the four sides of the lower base, an assembly hall (viharn) made of laterite and paved with stone, brick and stone buildings for monks to practice insight meditation and a pond dug in laterite.
Wat Kamphaeng Hin........Wat Kamphaeng Hin is located to the west of the old city some 2.3 kilometres from the Or Gate in the Aranyik forest temple area. The important monuments were surrounded by a slate wall giving the temple its name. The assembly hall (viharn) consists of four chambers built from brick and stone while the columns were built of laterite. In front of the viharn are two rows of staircases while at the rear is the square base of the main chedi built of brick.

Outer Monuments East
Wat Chang Lom........Wat Chang Lom is located outside the city wall to the east and north of the Mae Lam Phan canal. This temple contains a large group of monuments covering a large area enclosed by a ditch. The temple consists of a bell-shaped chedi with 32 elephant sculptures around the base, an assembly hall (viharn) enshrining a Buddha image now in ruin, an ordination hall (ubosot) surrounded by water in accordance withthe concept of Udaka Sima, subordinate chedis and a boundary wall and moat enclosing the whole temple. A stone inscription found at this site dates the temple to no earlier than 1384 after the death of the King Phra Maha Dharmaraja Li Thai.

Boonbunleng Resort........From Sukothai we need to head directly north but not too far. There’s a need to stay in Sukhothai Province for at least another day. There are sites to visit in the next district and in ordinary circumstances they could be visited this afternoon but I’m just not feeling up to it and need a break. Discussions are underway to decide what to do then instinctively Katoon turns into a resort on the left just south of the town of Sawankhalok. It’s just what I need at this stage and with arrival in mid afternoon I can get an hour’s sleep. The resort is new with rooms outside my price range but the standard room while quite small ticks all the boxes with a better standard than last night for 100 baht more. At 5pm we decide to drive into town.
Sawankhalok........Sawankhalok is a small provincial town yet is boasts an airport and a rail terminal. It’s to the later I head first and witness the arrival of the only train of the day just before 6pm.From Sawankhalok the branch line connects to the main line at Sala At in Uttaradit Province. However the main purpose of this excursion is to have dinner which is taken in the night market. I figure a change from Thai food would be nice and order beefsteak but when it arrives my mouth drops. It’s that small you have to see a funnier side. I remark that it’s not much bigger than the base of a stiletto heel and the fries could be measured in an egg cup. I have to supplement it with street food. Back at the room I work hard to bring my blog up to date. Today nearly twenty more sites have been added to the visit list in not much more than four hours. Whatever else I cannot complain about productivity over two days with 361 photographs added to the repository. Tomorrow could be another very interesting day as I move to the last district I intend to cover in Sukhothai Province. Next Page.