Day 7 - Friday 3 February 2017

Halfway point........Today represents the halfway point in this current tour. The first few days achieved what I intended; a sun and sand holiday but since then there has been nothing along the Ranong coastline that fits the bill. Now I can only head further south and hope for the best. At least when there’s no sun and sand I won’t pay over the odds. For breakfast today I’ve taken the car out as I know parking isn’t an issue at the market. That means I can get some cheap pastries known as ba tong go. By 10am I’m ready to depart.
Wang Majcha Park........Google Map The first stop of the day is at a weir over the Kapoe River and another opportunity to feed the river fish. Wang Majcha Park (right) is a local attraction and is marked on Google map. It’s on to the next stop.
Klong Naka Wildlife Sanctuary........Google Map The Klong Naka Wildlife Sanctuary, at the base of the mountains of Ngao National Park is an example of the seriousness of Thai conversationalists to protect the natural environment. While field studies and conservation group tours start from here, there is nothing for the casual tourist to see. I need to return to the main theme of this tour ....more.

Tale Nok........Google Map An opportunity arises in the final district of Ranong heading south which is Suk Samran. Here there is a turning to the right with a board signposted to Tale Nok. The road is designated a scenic route and I can verify that. When the mountain terrain gives way there is a Muslim village and then a beach road running north but the only residents here are goats. I’m perplexed to find no structures here whatsoever except temporary shelters for fishermen, even though there’s a long sandy beach unfortunately not clear of rubbish. There are decent views of the islands in Leam Son National Park here but no accommodation. There nothing I can do but try further on. When we reach Suk Samran, there’s little here too. It’s even smaller than Kapoe but there is one resort here. However there is one final opportunity to find a beach.

Prapat Beach........Google Map We head down to Prapat Beach. Here again I’m surprised to find little here except a research centre which at least has accommodation. But we’re just too far from conveniences and double back to enquire at I-in Resort where we take lunch ....more.

Dilemma........Now there is a dilemma. I’ve come all this way, admittedly taking a chance over accommodation but I never expected such wonderful beaches with no conveniences whatsoever. It leads to a debate as to whether we should take the accommodation at Suk Samran. However there is a plan B but at this point in the tour it’s a long shot. For months before I arrived for this winter tour I had identified islands off the coastline, not here in Ranong but in the next province south, Phang Nga. Remembering a recent tour to Takua Pa,. I’m aware that I didn’t travel to the coastline in Kruaburi district which lies to the north. As this district lies opposite those islands I identified, I’m a sort of convert to the idea of crossing into Phang Nga Province and soon find myself heading towards Kuraburi.
Mu Ko Surin Pier........Google Map Now across the provincial border, a turning off the Petkasem Road leads us to the port that serves the island Mu Ko Surin. It’s really a long shot but could those islands just turn out to be something really special? It’s worth a gamble as it’s still only 2pm. At the pier there’s quite a lot of activity near the port with a number of trawlers landing their catch but it’s not a trawler I’m looking for. I’m told to head to the end of the pier where boats depart for the islands. Here there is a regular service but most visitors will need to charter a boat as its that quiet. My initial enquiries aren’t too promising. A boat will be expensive and it’s not clear in my mind what exactly I want to do. Everything here is informal. There’s no ticket office or travel information that I can see. Rather than flog the issue right now I decide to make accommodation for the evening a priority before I consider other travel options.

Stopover........First I enquire near the port but I’m told there are better options in Kuraburi some 10 kilometres away. Either way the accommodation proves to be basic. Nobody seems to offer a room with a fridge but I would sacrifice that for location. But there are no beaches at either location. It’s really frustrating and not what I intended for this tour but there is one more beach I could try back the way I came. When I arrive at Ao Koei Google Map it’s exactly the same as the others; a long sandy beach, ideal for swimming, sunbathing, whatever but not a sole in sight, just the odd building but there’s a glimmer of hope.
Wilderness........On a headland connected to the beach road there is a cluster of huts known as Kura Andaman Google Map clinging to the hillside of a type that have almost disappeared in Thailand now. These backpacker huts were a magnet for early travelers who could stay for next to nothing. I have to check it out but I know I would have to sacrifice certain comforts if I insisted that location was the priority; and so it proves. No hot water, running water just about but otherwise a water tank, no catering whatever, no air conditioning, no fridge, no internet and hardly a phone signal. It’s a lot to sacrifice particularly the internet but when Katoon believes we can cope I decide to turn the clock back and give it a go.
Certainly here, apart from the location, there are other ways to offset the lack of conveniences. For only the second time in almost two months it is raining. No more than thundershowers really, but enough to cool things down. Air conditioning won’t be a problem. Then back along the beach road there is a minimart and restaurant which in this isolated location is a lifeline. The food is fine and I treat myself to a bottle of Thai rum. It’s now a question of waiting till sunset. Heading back to the hut, there is a magnificent rainbow but the sun will set in a clear sky to the west. Just 10 minutes before sunset we head to the beach at the base of the hill. We descend by a dirt track then wade across a klong (creek) and there is a practically deserted beach with miles of golden sand. Now that’s just magic; a swim in calm water against the backdrop of a setting sun. Back at the hut I can still write up my blog and sit out on the veranda with glass in hand. Next Page.